Guides & Instructors

Alpine Guides

Guiding on Mont Blanc Photo: © Thomas Chatfield

British Mountain Guides/IFMGA

Many years of climbing and mountaineering experience are required to join the BMG as a trainee candidate. The Guides' training scheme meets the standards laid down by the European Guides Commission (EGC) and is ratified by The International Federation of Mountain Guiding Associations (IFMGA), formerly referred to as the Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagne (UIAGM). It takes a minimum of three years to attain full membership of the BMG/IFMGA. This covers UK summer and winter mountaineering and Alpine guiding and skiing. Only IFMGA guides or BMG aspirant members under the supervision of an IFMGA guide, are permitted to operate in the Alps... [read more] at the BMG website.

The Jagged Globe guides who will climb with you in the Alps are dedicated mountaineers with an intimate knowledge of the regions where we base our courses. As many of them also lead our expeditions, they will be able to advise you on your long-term expedition and mountaineering goals.

Below are the key guides on our Summer Alpine Courses. Each course will have its own Course Director who will be responsible for its smooth running. Additional guides will work with each Course Director, as required.

Andy Owen BMG IFMGA
Andy Owen has been a regular member of our Alpine Course instructor team since his days as an Aspirant Guide. During the summer season, he mixes it up as Course Director in Arolla on our Intro Courses, with guiding over in Chamonix on our Chamonix Climber and Classics courses. Andy knows the Arolla Valley incredibly well and has good relations with the guardians of the mountain huts there, ensuring our course participants are in the right place at the right time and make the most of the conditions in the mountains. In addition to the summer mountaineering, Andy works on our Winter Alpine Ice climbing courses, as well as our Spring Skiing Programme. He has spent many seasons in the Alps over the past fifteen years, with his outgoing and cheerful personality making him a real pleasure to be with in the hills. It's a shame about some of his jokes and music tastes! Andy's experience extends far beyond the Alps, to South America, where he has climbed Aconcagua several times, and the Himalaya, where he has led Jagged Globe trips to Ama Dablam and Khumbu Climber.
Head of Course: Oberland 4000ers, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Queyras Ski Tour, Ski Haute Route

Caroline Ogden BMG IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide
Caroline Ogden qualified as Guide in New Zealand and she is now a member of the British Mountain Guides Association. She also holds NZ instructor association qualifications in Rock Climbing and Mountaineering. Caroline hails from Anglesey in North Wales, but lives for much of the year in New Zealand, where she works in the winter as a Ski Guide, doing a mixture of Heli-skiing, day-guiding and ski-mountaineering. She has also guided in the New Zealand summer on Mount Cook. Her twenty years of climbing and mountaineering experience has been gained in many ranges all over the world, and she has recently led expeditions for Jagged Globe to Kilimanjaro, Khumbu Climber and Ama Dablam. Caroline is one of key guides during the summer months, part of a great team with Andy Owen in Arolla on our Intro Courses, and combining this with jaunts across to Zermatt, where she Course Directs on our Zermatt 4,000ers and Zermatt Climber courses. Caroline also guides on our two 'women friendly' courses in Arolla, working with other female guides. She is a great teacher, incredibly hard working and superb fun to be with in the mountains.

Jim Kerr BMG IFMGA
A fully qualified mountain guide for nearly twenty years, Jim climbs and skis mainly in Europe, with trips to Peru, Bolivia, Nepal, Canada and rock climbing in France, Italy, Spain, Sinai and North America. He is a past trainer and assessor for the British Mountain Guides Association and has been a regular Course Director and guide on Jagged Globe Alpine Courses for many years. Jim is based in the Chamonix Valley and is a brilliant skier and teacher, as well as mountaineer and guide. His wealth of experience has been appreciated by our course participants time and time again, and we're lucky to have him as part of our guiding team.
Course Guide/Instructor: Introductory Ski Mountaineering

Graham McMahon BMG IFMGA
Graham has been climbing for nearly twenty-five years and has been involved with Jagged Globe in one way or another for over ten years now. Graham is also an MIC, based in North Wales, where he still lives for part of the year. As such he comes from an instructional background and is not only a superb guide, but teacher of mountaineering skills. He qualified as a British Mountain Guide in 1997 and works each summer in the Alps, as well as leading expeditions further afield and still rock climbing to a high standard. Graham has led previous Jagged Globe teams in Nepal and on Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan.

Paul Farmer BMG IFMGA
Paul Farmer has been guiding since 1988 in Europe, Canada, New Zealand, Antarctica and the Greater Ranges. He is an IFMGA Guide who has been involved with Jagged Globe Scottish Winter Courses and Alpine Courses for many years. He has also led expeditions for us, most recently to the summit of Ama Dablam. Paul will be course directing for us again this summer.

Pelle Bagewitz IFMGA
Born in Sweden, thesedays Pelle is based in the Chamonix Valley and guides for Jagged Globe each summer on our Alpine Courses. When not climbing or skiing, Pelle is a keen surfer and spends a couple of months each year searching for waves in Central America and Mauritius.

Tomaz Jakofcic IFMGA
An IFMGA Guide from Slovenia, Tomaz started climbing at age 15. Since then he has climbed over 900 alpine routes, with many world-class first ascents in the Greater Ranges. His CV reads like a dream list, and includes ascents in the Himalayas of the NE Ridge of Dhaulagiri (8,167m), alpine-style new routes on Gyachung Kang (7,952 m) and Siguang Ri (7,308m) and the first alpine style ascent of 'Eternal Flame' on the Trango Tower in the Karakoram. In recent years, Tomaz has focussed his personal climbing efforts in Patagonia "probably because they have excellent food and wine down there", with three summits of Fitz Roy, all via different routes, and new alpine-style routes on Almirante Nieto -Eol and the North Tower of Paine. In the Alps, Tomaz has climbed many of the modern hard classics, including the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, Divine Providence - reckoned to be the hardest route to the summit of Mont Blanc and the tenuous ice climb, Beyond Good and Evil on the Pelerins. He also leads expeditions for Jagged Globe and was a leader on our 2008 Manaslu expedition and in 2009 summited Mt Everest as a leader on the Jagged Globe expedition.

Richard Dupont IFMGA
Richard Dupont was born in Annecy but has lived in Luz (our base for the Gavarnie Ice courses) for the past 20 years. Richard guides each summer on Jagged Globe Alpine Mountaineering courses, and has climbed with Jagged Globe Marketing Director, Tom Briggs, in Gavarnie. He speaks excellent English, has an incredibly relaxed demeanour and is a brilliant person to climb with. Richard has a wealth of experience, not just in the Alps, but all over the world. He is a very keen ski tourer and has led ski tours to lots of interesting places. We're very lucky to have Richard working for us in the Alps in summer 2009, as well as in Gavarnie again in winter 2010.
Course Guide/Instructor: Oberland 4000ers

Julie-Ann Clyma IFMGA
A dual British/Swiss national, Julie-Ann lives in Leysin, Switzerland and has extensive experience and knowledge of the Alps. She has been climbing since 1980 and qualified as a guide in 2002. Julie-Ann is renowned for her frequent overseas expeditions. To date she has been on over 20 expeditions to high altitude mountains in Asia, North and South America. These have included many first ascents, which she has written about in magazines such as Climb and Climber. Julie-Ann is working on two special 'women friendly' Alpine Introduction courses again in 2009. If you would like to be inspired, then join her in Arolla.

Mac Mackay BMG IFMGA
Born in Inverness, Scotland, Mac Mackay is a past President of the British Mountain Guides Association. He is a regular Course Director on Jagged Globe Alpine Courses and has led numerous expeditions for us. Mac is a ski teacher (ISIA) who also holds Alpine/Nordic qualifications (DSV/BASI). He is also a member of the British Safety Council.

Greg Sauget IFMGA
Greg is from La Palud, a tiny village on the edge of the Verdon Gorge in Provence, Southern France. During the summer months, Greg guides in the European Alps and is frequently a Course Director on our Summer Alpine Courses. As well as guiding for us, Greg also leads expeditions, most recently to Kilimanjaro.

Mara Larson - Jagged Globe's Representative in the Alps

Mara Larson is our Alpine Courses representative, looking after the interest of our clients in Alps. If you have any problems whilst you are in the Alps, you have the support of the office here in the UK, as well as Mara on the ground. Mara has worked for Jagged Globe as our Base Camp Manager on Everest since 2003 and adds a wealth of experience and organisational capability to our summer Alpine Courses. In Spring 2007 she made her first climb into the 'Death Zone', when she took time off from her base camp duties and had a quick jaunt up to the South Col on Everest.

UK Instructors

The Association of Mountaineering Instructors

The AMI consists of holders of either the Mountain Instructors Award (MIA) or Mountain Instructors Certificate (MIC). The MIA relates to UK summer mountaineering and rock climbing. The next stage up is the MIC, which, in addition to the summer skills, includes UK winter mountaineering. These skills are readily transferable to mountain ranges elsewhere... [read more] at the AMI website.

Here is a selection of comments about our Instructors from course participants on our 2011 Scottish Winter Courses:

"The course personnel were among the most inspiring group of individuals I've ever met. Exceptionally down to earth and modest about their considerable achievements. We would have followed them all up Everest if they had asked, they instilled that much confidence. The more technical aspects of the course were conveyed and managed in an engaging and easy to follow manner, never once did I feel intimidated by learning new skills. Assertive when they needed to be, we also had a good laugh." SC, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011

"The quality of instruction made the course for me. All three Instructors were superb. They were also a model in how to work as a team under clear leadership. I was probably the one who struggled most with course and I was given tremendous help in a very unpatronising way. When I was struggling with a descent I was helped by Alex and didn't feel I was holding up the whole group which would have increased pressure on me. The team got it just right in giving me enough challenge but not to the point where I felt unhappy. Their encouragement was superb. I learnt a tremendous amount and loved the way the instructors combined sharing technical skills with a sense of love and respect for the mountains. I also appreciated the time given by Sam, Alex and Andy Chapman to helping my husband and I make decisions about a planned October expedition." CH, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011

"The three instructors: Alex, Max and Dave were all outstanding. They were incredibly knowledgeable and helpful and generally made everyone relaxed whilst maintaining a challenging pace. Everyone left feeling inspired and having learnt a lot." JW, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011

"All three Instructors were very knowledgeable and confident, which helped to raise the confidence of the group as the week progressed. Sam Leary's enthusiasm (and patience) was noted and admired by everyone in the group." JW, Introductory Winter Mountaineering 2011

"I loved watching the teamwork between Sam/Alex/Max and the respect they all have for each other. I wish my team back here at work functioned that well!" RH, Winter Mountaineering 2011

"It was a pleasure to spend the climbing days guided by Andy and he is an asset to Jagged Globe. Relaxed and competent I had every confidence when on challenging routes and I am glad to have learned much from him over the course of the week. I go away with a greater level of confidence to tackle routes that would otherwise have been beyond me. It was inspiring to be out on days with such an accomplished mountaineer as Roger Mear and he ensured that we were taken on routes that were appropriately pitched to be challenging for our level of skill." CH, Winter Mountaineering 2011

"They were a all absolutely brilliant! A highly organised and motivated team. Roger was particularly courteous, helpfull and accomodating. He was very positive about my skills level and ability if I decided to join a Denali trip." BH, Winter Mountaineering 2011

"Jagged Globe Instructors and Guides are always really good, you do a fantastic job selecting the best of the best for your courses and this is really appreciated! JR, Snow and Ice Climbing 2011

"Organisation was first class as ever. I have yet to meet a Jagged Globe instructor who is not competent, approachable and a credit to their profession." CO, Snow and Ice Climbing 2011

"Instructors were both highly sensitive to our requirements, very perceptive of our abilities and untiring in optimising the course content. I can't praise them highly enough."DP, Snow and Ice Climbing 2011

Here is a selection of the key personalities on our Scottish Winter Courses and Rock Climbing and Scrambling Courses:

Ed Chard MIC
"Ed was fantastic in every aspect. A genuine asset to the company." RG, Snow and Ice Climbing 2011
Ed Chard is our Senior Course Director in Scotland. Ed holds the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate (MIC) and is the Development Officer of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI). He has been a key personality on our Scottish Winter Courses an since 2002, is a superb instructor and great fun to be with on the hill. Ed has also led numerous expeditions for Jagged Globe in Asia, Africa, South America, North America and Europe. These include expeditions to Mera and Island Peak, Khumbu Climber, Stok Kangri, Huascaran and Alpamayo. Ed successfully managed his first full season as Senior Director in Winter 2009, which was our busiest yet.
Course Director: Snow & Ice Climbing, Introductory Long Weekend, Winter Mountaineering, UK Private Guiding (Scottish Winter), Introductory Winter Mountaineering

Tony Halliwell MIC
Tony has over 20 years' experience as an instructor. He began working on Jagged Globe Scottish Winter Courses in 2007 and mixes freelancing with a number of Technical Advisor roles. In 2012, Tony will be a Senior Instructor on our Scottish Winter Courses. In addition to instructing, Tony has climbed, trekked and led expeditions on numerous occasions in Nepal. He has climbed in the Peruvian Andes, the Caucasus, Mt. Kenya and to the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Adele Pennington MIC
Adele is a full-time expedition leader and instructor for Jagged Globe. She regularly advises course participants on the right choice of course, as well as instructing in Scotland each winter. Adele has a huge amount of personal mountaineering experience, including two ascents of Mt Everest, Manaslu (first British woman), Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Denali. She has led many Jagged Globe expeditions, including Kilimanjaro, Mera Peak, Khumbu Climber, Bolivian Climber, Huascaran, Lhakpa Ri and Cotopaxi. Her particular passion though is Scottish Winter Mountaineering and her enthusiasm for this is nothing short of infectious.
Course Guide/Instructor: UK Private Guiding (Scottish Winter)

Mungo Ross MIC
Mungo has been a freelance mountaineering instructor for over 30 years; he also has a wealth of experience leading groups in the Greater Ranges. Mungo has led many expeditions for Jagged Globe, including Aconcagua, Huascaran, Ecuador Volcanoes, Khan Tengri, Kilimanjaro, Khumbu Climber, Rolwaling Summits, Mera and Island Peak and Stok Kangri. He is a member of our core Scottish Winter Courses instructor team.

Sam Leary MIC
Sam has over 20 years' experience of mountaineering, working extensively in Wales and Scotland and with trips further afield to America, Africa and South America. She is a very active climber both in summer and winter and has first ascents on the sea cliffs and in the mountains of the UK. Sam works on our Rock Climbing Courses and on our Scottish Winter Courses.

Andy Chapman MIC
Andy Chapman is an instructor on our Scottish Winter Courses and Rock Climbing courses. He has led many expeditions for Jagged Globe, including Vinson, Lhakpa Ri, Ecuador Volcanoes, Mera and Island Peak, Kilimanjaro and Khan Tengri. In 2007 Andy had a particularly successful trip to Peru, with our teams summiting Huascaran and Alpamayo under his determined leadership.

David Haygarth MIC
David has been associated with Jagged Globe since 2002. He has regularly instructed on the Scottish Winter Courses and has led several expeditions including Bolivian Climber, Ecuador Volcanoes, Atlas Ascents and Kilimanjaro. He has led first ascents in the Tien Shan and remains a keen mountaineer and climber. In 2008 he will be leading an Adventureworks expedition to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.

Ski Instructors

All of our Alpine ski guides hold the International Mountain Guides carnet (IFMGA). They are expert skiers with the mountaineering judgement and instructional skills to ensure that each member safely achieves their full potential. Our Off Piste Courses are staffed by a combination of Guides and Ski Instructors. The main personnel on our skiing courses are as follows:

Jim Blyth BMG IFMGA
The Director of our Alpine Ski Mountaineering Programme is Jim Blyth. A fully qualified IFMGA guide and a member of the British Association of Mountain Guides, Jim's specialisations include ski mountaineering, ice climbing and expedition leading. Jim lives in France throughout the year and is a fluent French speaker with a good working knowledge of German.
Leader report: Introductory Ski Mountaineering (2001).
Course Director: Ski Silvretta, Ski Mont Blanc Extension, Dolomites Freeride Couloirs and Tours, Oberland Ski Tour

Andy Owen BMG IFMGA
Andy Owen has been a regular member of our Alpine Course instructor team since his days as an Aspirant Guide and now works for the duration of the summer on Jagged Globe courses. For 2009 Andy will be one of our key Guides on our Alpine Ice courses and our Ski Mountaineering. He is one of our most popular guides, with an outgoing and cheerful personality and is a pleasure to be with in the hills. His experience extends far beyond the Alps, to South America where he has climbed Aconcagua several times, and the Himalaya, where he has led Jagged Globe trips to Ama Dablam and Khumbu Climber.
Head of Course: Oberland 4000ers, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Queyras Ski Tour, Ski Haute Route

Simon Christy BASI Coach
Simon is a British Association of Snowsport Instructors (BASI) coach and trainer and has many seasons under his belt. He is based in Courchevel throughout the season and is a gifted teacher and instructor on all of our off-piste skiing courses in the three valleys, Tignes and Verbier. Simon will help improve your skiing technique - guaranteed!
Course Director: Off Piste Introduction - The 3 Valleys
Head of Course: Off Piste Improvers - Chamonix

Philippe Terrettaz Ski Guide
Local expert, Philippe Terrettaz, a fluent English speaking off-piste ski guide and instructor will accompany Simon Christy on our Off-piste Perfection course.

Neil Milne BASI Coach
Neil is a BASI Coach and BASI Off Piste and Mountain Safety Trainer. He has been based in The 3 Valleys for the past ten seasons. Neil has also worked in Italy and Switzerland, as well as other areas of France. Neil is an excellent Instructor who has done a great job working on our Off Piste Introduction week. He's not just a skier and during the summer months leads treks throughout the Alps.
Head of Course: Off Piste Introduction - The 3 Valleys

Rob Sewell BASI Coach
Rob first turned up in Courchevel in December 1985 and has been there every winter since. He started ski instructor training in 1991 and got his full ticket in1999. He has been teaching full time since then. He worked two seasons with New Generation (where he met Simon Christy) and has been an independent instructor since. Before he was qualified he did a lot of skiing for himself and was off piste much of the time. He has also done a lot of touring over the years. Rob rates he best trip as when he and Simon went to Alaska.