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Alpine Techniques

Duration 8 Days » Grade Intermediate

On the Aiguilles du Entreves, Alpine Techniques, June 2011 (www2), 61 kb

On the Aiguilles du Entreves, Alpine Techniques, June 2011 Photo: © Tomaz Jakofcic

"The course is undersold! Not being focused on peak bagging gave us enormous flexibility. So that dependent on weather and capabilities, we were able to exploit this freedom as conditions changed. Indoor wall, big boots on the Cosmiques, ice climbing Gr IV, rock shoes on L'Index. All in one week. Fantastic." RT, Alpine Techniques Sep '10

This course is designed to turn you into a fully-fledged, independent mountaineer. It is suitable for those who have completed an Alpine Introduction course or for mountaineers who have previously joined our 4,000ers courses, who feel they would like to spend more time on their Alpine Techniques. If you have climbed at Scottish Grade III/IV or equivalent and have plenty of experience of rock climbing, you may also consider this course instead of our Alpine Introduction.

Based in Chamonix, the emphasis is on instruction, rather than bagging peaks. The first half of the week is guided at a 1:4 ratio, with the second half at a 1:2 ratio, allowing us to climb routes graded Alpine AD. The course will cover alpine navigation, rope leadership on glaciers, lead climbing and how to extract yourself and party members from a crevasse. The Guides will provide the techniques and experience of covering slightly harder ground and placing learnt skills in context on a variety of rock and mixed snow and ice routes in the peaks of the Mont Blanc Range.

Course base: Chamonix, France

The skills taught and practised on the Alpine Techniques will include:

  • Looking after yourself and your climbing partner on tricky rock and ice sectionsl
  • How and why to bail out when things go wrong
  • Jedi tricks to get the route in the bag
  • Alpine navigation
  • Crevasse rescue

Typical Programme

Day 1:Saturday.
Course participants meet at the course base 7pm. Discuss the week's activities in the evening.
Day 2:Sunday.
A multi pitch rock-climbing day in and around the Chamonix Valley. We look at efficient movement over steep ground in both rockshoes and big boots. We will look at a variety of belay techniques, safe abseiling, setting up anchors, placing protection and leading. With of course as much sunlit rock as we can get in on the way!
Day 3:Monday.
Ascent to the Orny Hut, getting in some rock climbing near the hut and some crevasse rescue practice on the glacier. We will also practice with crampons and a look at ice protection.
Day 4:Tuesday.
Ascent of the North Face of the Tete Blanche, a short introductory climb on moderate angle snow and ice. We will then traverse of the Petite Fourche and abseil back down to the Trient Glacier. Return to Chamonix.
Day 5:Wednesday.
In the morning we will take the Telepherique to the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi for a long rock climb from the glacier. Overnight at the Cosmique Hut.
Day 6:Thursday.
Ascent of the Left Edge route (Contamine Grisolle) on Mont Blanc du Tacul. This is a classic AD mixed climb, taking in the summit of a 4,000m peak. We will then continue over the glacier to spend a night at the Torino Hut.
Day 7:Friday.
Ascent of the Dent du Geant, return to the valley. The classic route on the Dent du Geant is AD.
Day 8:Saturday.
Dispersal. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before climbers leave the course.

Further Information

Find out more about our Course bases, Course Inclusions and Exclusions, Course Directors and Guiding Ratios... [read more]

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Prices (choose currency)

Joining inChamonix
£1,595

Expeditions

If you have the skills & fitness required, then Jagged Globe offers a wide range of exciting expeditions [read more]

Other Courses at this Grade

These courses have a similar grade and might also suit you. They are all considered to be 'intermediate courses'.

Course nameDays
Off Piste Improvers - Tignes8
Saas 4000ers8
Off Piste Improvers - Chamonix8
Zermatt 4000ers8