Mont Blanc Summit

On the Bosses Ridge of Mont Blanc's Gouter Route Photo: © Tomaz Jakofcic

Jagged Globe offers three routes to the summit of Mont Blanc. Mont Blanc Summit climbs Western Europe's highest mountain at 4,807m via the Goûter Route (PD). This is the most assured way of reaching the summit and is in condition more consistently than any of the alternative routes. To make the most of this week, and to have a reasonable chance of summiting Mont Blanc, a good level of fitness, as well as ice axe and crampon proficiency (see below) is a pre-requisite. We provide a guiding ratio of 1:2 on Mont Blanc.

Standing on top of Mont Blanc is a major event in any mountaineer's career and is particularly challenging if you are attempting it within a week. We begin our week with some training around Chamonix to re-familiarise ourselves with ice axe and crampons and to gradually start our acclimatisation. From the Albert Premiere and Trient Huts, we ascend two relatively straightforward, but well placed peaks, gaining confidence on snow and rock. Having spent two nights at altitude, we then descend to Chamonix to rest, before beginning our ascent of Mont Blanc on Wednesday.

On Mont Blanc, we allow three days to make our climb to the summit via the The Goûter Route. If the mountain is not in condition, or if poor weather means we are unable to attempt Mont Blanc, we have the option of a short journey through the Mont Blanc tunnel to climb Gran Paradiso (4,061m), a fine alterative. Gran Paradiso is the highest mountain entirely within Italy.

Experience required
This week is designed for those with previous Alpine experience or British winter hillwalking experience. For example, if you have completed an Alpine Introduction course or an Introductory Long Weekend course in Scotland, you could consider our Mont Blanc Summit course. However, if you have never used crampons and an ice axe, we recommed that you join our Alpine Introduction course, followed by the three-day Mont Blanc Extension.

Alternatively, you can climb Mont Blanc as a 3-day extension to our intermediate level courses in Switzerland, the Saas 4000ers, Oberland 4000ers or Zermatt 4000ers courses.

Course base: Chamonix, France

Mont Blanc Summit - route to the top

The Goûter Route (PD)
The Goûter Route (PD) is the most frequented ascent route on Mont Blanc. The technical difficulty involves climbing snow-covered rock on the section to reach the Goûter Hut, and exposed snow crests in the upper part. The section crossing the Grand Couloir is exposed to stone fall. Overall, the route is physically challenging and requires a good degree of fitness and stamina.

The Goûter Route is our choice of route on Mont Blanc, as it is in condition far more consistently than the 'Three Monts' route (PD+/AD) from the Cosmiques Hut. The 'Three Monts' route is longer and more technical.

On the Goûter Route, we utilise either the Goûter Hut (3,817m) or the Tête Rousse Hut (3,167m), or both on our ascent and descent. Our Guides will decide the strategy for the climb, depending on the team's fitness and conditions, and the confirmed bookings that we have at the huts. For example, having taken the Tramway du Mont Blanc to Nid D'Aigle, it takes approximately 3 hours to ascend to the Tête-Rousse Hut. From the hut, we cross the Grand Couloir and climb snow and rock to reach the Goûter Hut. Moderately angled snow slopes lead to the Dôme du Goûter. From here we climb the Bosses Ridge and eventually, the summit ridge. It is normal to take 8 hours to climb from the Tête-Rousse Hut. Descent is via the same route, sleeping at either the Goûter or Tête-Rousse huts.

Typical Programme

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Dates

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Sat 9 Jun - Sat 16 Jun '12 Sat 16 Jun - Sat 23 Jun '12 Sat 23 Jun - Sat 30 Jun '12 Sat 30 Jun - Sat 7 Jul '12 Sat 7 Jul - Sat 14 Jul '12 Sat 4 Aug - Sat 11 Aug '12 Sat 1 Sep - Sat 8 Sep '12 Sat 8 Sep - Sat 15 Sep '12 Sat 15 Sep - Sat 22 Sep '12

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