Mont Blanc Summit

Sunrise on Mont Blanc Photo: © Jeremy Ashcroft

Mont Blanc Summit climbs Western Europe's highest mountain at 4,807m/15,771ft via the Goûter Route (PD). This is the most assured way of reaching the summit and is in condition more consistently than any of the alternative routes. To make the most of this week, and to have a reasonable chance of summiting Mont Blanc, a good level of fitness, as well as mountaineering proficiency (see below) is a pre-requisite. We provide a guiding ratio of 1:2 on Mont Blanc.

Standing on top of Mont Blanc is a major event in any mountaineer's career and is particularly challenging if you are attempting it within a week. We begin our week with some training around Chamonix to re-familiarise ourselves with ice axe and crampons and to gradually start our acclimatisation. From the Albert Premiere and Trient Huts, we ascend two relatively straightforward, but well placed peaks, gaining confidence on snow and rock. Having spent two nights at altitude, we then descend to Chamonix to rest, before beginning our ascent of Mont Blanc on Wednesday.

On Mont Blanc, we allow three days to make our climb to the summit via the The Goûter Route. If the mountain is not in condition, or if poor weather means we are unable to attempt Mont Blanc, we have the option of a short journey through the Mont Blanc tunnel to climb Gran Paradiso (4,061m), a fine alterative.

Experience required
This course is designed for those with previous Alpine experience or British winter climbing experience. For example, if you have completed an Alpine Introduction course or an Introductory Winter Mountaineering course in Scotland, you could consider this course. However, if you have only used crampons and an ice axe occasionally, for example, on an Introductory Long Weekend in Scotland, we recommed that you join our Alpine Introduction course, followed by the three-day Mont Blanc Extension.

Alternatively, you can climb Mont Blanc as a 3-day extension to our intermediate level courses in Switzerland, the Saas 4000ers, Oberland 4000ers or Zermatt 4000ers courses.

Course base: Chamonix, France

Mont Blanc Summit - route to the top

The Goûter Route (PD)
The Goûter Route (PD) is the most frequented ascent route on Mont Blanc with little technical difficulty in good conditions, but exposed snow crests in the upper section. The route is physically challenging and requires a good degree of fitness and stamina. The Goûter Route is our choice of route on Mont Blanc, as it is in condition far more consistently than the 'Three Monts' route (PD+/AD) from the Cosmiques Hut. The 'Three Monts' route is more technical, with the north-west face of Mont Blanc du Tacul frequently being in lean condition and/or threatened by serac fall and avalanche danger.

On the Goûter Route, we utilise the Goûter Hut (3,817m) and the Tête Rousse (3,167m) on our ascent and descent. Our guides will decide the strategy for the climb, depending on the team's fitness and conditions, but we have bookings at both huts, so that we have some flexibility. Having taken the Tramway du Mont Blanc to Nid D'Aigle, it takes approximately 5 hours to ascend to the Goûter Hut. This part of the ascent involves mixed climbing on snow and rock. From the hut, we climb moderately angled snow slopes to the Dôme du Goûter, then reach the Bosses Ridge and eventually, the summit ridge. It is normal to take 5 hours to climb from the Goûter Hut to the summit, or, if you climb from the lower Tête-Rousse Hut, 8 hours. Descent is via the same route, sleeping at either the Goûter or Tête-Rousse huts.

Typical Programme

Further Information

Dates

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Sat 12 Jul - Sat 19 Jul '08 Sat 16 Aug - Sat 23 Aug '08 Sat 6 Sep - Sat 13 Sep '08 Sat 13 Sep - Sat 20 Sep '08

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