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Aconcagua

Altitude 6,959m/22,830ft » Duration 25 Days » Grade 1C

The world's highest trekking peak and the second highest of the Seven Summits

Introduction

Of the Seven Summits, Aconcagua is the second highest and one of the most technically straightforward to climb. It is generally regarded to be the highest trekking peak in the world and can be climbed by fit hikers without roped climbing experience.

However, even the normal Horcones route is a very arduous ascent due to the scale of the mountain, its considerable altitude and the unpredictable weather. For the past two seasons, our teams have followed an itinerary that provides additional acclimatisation days and climbs Bonete Peak (5,004m), whilst maintaining three days for the summit bid. Aconcagua is an enormously high mountain and the longer you spend acclimatising, the better your chances of reaching the summit. If you do need to sit out bad weather in the top camp on Aconcagua, it is easier to do so having arrived feeling strong from being better acclimatised. This improved itinerary has worked well, with more of our team members reaching the summit in the 2005-06 and 2006-07 seasons, than previously.

Summit day typically takes 10 hours from Berlin Huts (5,800m), with the Canaleta, a large gully leading to the summit ridge, being the most strenuous part of the climb. The views from the top are breathtaking and make all the hard work worthwhile. Aconcagua is a considerable step up from a mountain such as Kilimanjaro, so if you are serious about joining an expedition, we recommend that you train specifically for the climb

Central to the quality of our Aconcagua expedition has been our in-country manager, Daniel Alessio, who is a local professional guide and fluent English speaker. Daniel provides us with the best service available on the mountain, which includes the best food at base camp prepared by very helpful, cheerful and conscientious members of his staff.

Daniel has climbed Aconcagua many times, including a new route and first ascent on the West Face, as well as holding, for a time, the record for the fastest ascent of the mountain. Outside of Argentina, Daniel is also a Jagged Globe leader in his own right, having been a guide on our 1993 Cho Oyu Expedition (8,201m) and our 1994 Shishapangma Expedition (8,027 m), as well as leading our Bolivian Climber and Huascaran Expeditions.

The Mountain

Mt. Aconcagua, at 22,830ft (6,962m) is the highest point in the Western and Southern hemisphere, towering above the surrounding peaks in the Argentine Andes. The mountain stands on the border with Chile, some 30 km (a day-and-a-half hike) from the Puente del Inca settlement.

Aconcagua lies in the Frontal Range, slightly to the east of the main Andean chain. It has a very steep and massive face on its south and a gentle slope on the north, with a huge glacier, the Polish glacier, flowing to the east and a series of arêtes and couloirs to the west.

The mountain has two summits - North (6,959m) and South (6,930m), joined by a ridge (Cresta del Guanaco) approximately one kilometre long. Various ridges radiate from each summit and the whole massif is isolated from other high peaks; only to the northwest is it connected by a high snow ridge with the surrounding mountain systems. The usual approach is from the south up the Quebrada de los Horcones, which circles the western flanks of the peak, to the Plaza de Mulas base camp at a height of 4,365 metres. From here, 3 routes start: the normal via the Horcones Glacier Superior and north ridge, the West Buttress route, and the South-West route. The best climbing period is mid-November to March. On the normal route, refuges exist at heights of 5,933 metres and 6,377 metres.

Historical Notes

The first known attempt on Aconcagua was by the German mountaineer Paul Gussfeldt who, in 1883, reached 6,000 metres on his first try by following the North ridge. On his second attempt he failed to get as high as before and his lack of success can be attributed partly to the absence of a strong climbing partner. In January 1897, the mountain was attacked by the Fitzgerald expedition who were the first to use the Horcones valley approach. On 12 January Fitzgerald's guide Matthias Zurbriggen reached the ridge between the two summits, and two days later made a complete ascent. The ascent was repeated by other members of the expedition a month later. The next to reach the top was V.M. Conway nearly two years later; however, he stopped short of the very top out of deference to Fitzgerald, something he later regretted. Ascents and attempts were made quite frequently thereafter, including the first winter ascent in 1915 by Eilert Sundt and two companions; the party were unable to reach the highest point because of a cornice.

The first group to put up a new route were the members of the 1934 Polish Andes Expedition who climbed what is known as the Ruta del Glaciar de los Polacos, on the East face; this required four intermediate camps. In 1947, in the course of a golden jubilee year anniversary climb, Thomas Kopp and Lothar Heroldd made a difficult traverse of the summit ridge to the south peak, discovering the carcass of a guanaco en route. This discovery has led to speculation about the possibility of an Inca ascent of the great peak. In 1953 the Swiss couple, Frederic and Dorly Marmillod, with two companions, traversed across the western flanks from Plaza de Mulas and ascended to the South Peak via the South-West ridge. In 1951, W. Foerster, L. Krahl and E. Meier, repeating Gussfeldt's route, succeeded in joining up with the ordinary route at c. 6,200 metres. In 1954, a strong group of French climbers made a route up the south face, one of the hardest in the whole of the Andes.

Since then the face has been climbed by a variety of routes. In 1966, the Ruta de los Argentinos was put up to the right of the French route and, in the same year, the Central Couloir was climbed which runs between the French and Argentine routes. 1974 saw Reinhold Messner solo a direct finish to the French route, while yet another variation was added by the 1981 Japanese expedition. As recently as 2003, the celebrated Slovenian mountaineers, Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelji climbed a new line on the south face. Their 2,500m route was climbed over 5 days and included technical difficulties up to M6 and 90° ice.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London to Buenos Aires
Day 2:Arrive Buenos Aires
After the long transatlantic flight, we take a welcome break in the city, before continuing our journey to Mendoza. When we leave the international airport, we will be met by our local representative, who will escort us to the heart of Buenos Aires. Within an hour of reaching Argentina, we will be relaxing in a terrace restaurant, with brunch being served, under the warming mid-morning sun.

After a few hours relaxation, we make the short transfer (15 minutes) to the domestic airport and continue our flight (2½ hours) direct to Mendoza on the eastern side of the Andes (it is possible to fly to Mendoza from the international airport, but this often involves a tortuous, unreliable journey and transfer via Cordoba). Once in Mendoza, we will be met by our local mountain company representative and taken to the hotel in the centre of the town.

Having arrived in the early afternoon, we have plenty of time to acquaint ourselves with the city centre, and to relax by the hotel pool.

Day 3:At leisure in Mendoza
In the morning, your expedition leader will check the essential items of your equipment, to ensure that you are well equipped for the climb. Hopefully, you will have everything you need, but there are numerous climbing shops in the high street that can fill-in gaps, should there be any.

After that, the team is free to wander the streets, to shop, to sample the many pavement cafes and bars or to visit the countless vineyards that ring the city.

In the evening, we will take a meal together in one of the many excellent restaurants in town.

Day 4:Drive to Los Penitentes (2,599m/ 8,530ft)
Before leaving the city, we drive to the headquarters of the Aconcagua National Park. Here, we must complete our applications to enter the park and to climb the mountain. Jagged Globe meets all permit charges, so all you will need is your passport, a copy of your insurance certificate and a biro. Once these minimal formalities are completed, we're on our way to the mountain itself.

This is a four-hour drive along the road leading to Santiago de Chile. We will stop for lunch on the way before continuing into the Andes.

Penitentes is a small development built to serve the ski slopes that straddle the Mendoza-Santiago highway at this point, just short of the entrance to the Horcones Valley. We chose the best hotel available, providing en suite single and twin rooms, according to your booking preference. However, it is fair to point out that all hotels in this development are in decline, and the facilities are not as well maintained, as would be preferred. Nevertheless, Los Penitentes gives the best accommodation in, at least, an aspiring hotel setting, compared with the "hostleria" and dormitory accommodation elsewhere in Los Penitentes, and in Puente del Incas, a little further along the road.

Immediately after arrival, we sort out our bags for the mules, as these will be taken early the next morning and delivered to Confluencia, our next stopping point.

Day 5:Trek to Confluencia (3,395m/ 11,140ft)
After a good breakfast, we will be driven to the National Park entrance for the first phase of our trek to base camp. On the way to the entrance, we will stop off at the amazing natural arch that spans the river at Puente del Inca. This is a honey pot for local tourists, and a last chance to buy mineral water, in readiness for the day's walk.

The walk to the first campsite at Confluencia takes about four hours and we will stop for lunch on the way. The trail follows an enormous valley flanked by impressive scree slopes and folded strata. Shortly after setting off, we will get our first views of Aconcagua.

Day 6:Acclimatisation trek to Plaza Francia
Today, we will hike as close as we can to the foot of the South Face of Aconcagua. This is the most impressive side of the mountain that rises in a sheer 3,000m (10,000ft) from the head of the valley. Apart from giving us stupendous views, the hike will take us to over 4,000m (13,200) which will assist our acclimatisation.

After an initial climb from the river confluence, we enter the Inferior Rio Horcones Valley, which leads to the South Face. Once in the valley proper, it is followed less steeply, until the full height of the South Face can be seen towering ahead of us. From this point, it is possible to continue further but, as the gradient is shallow, it takes a very long walk for any appreciable height gain so there is little acclimatisation advantage to be gained from going much beyond a 4-hour walk into the valley.

To help our acclimatisation, we dwell at our high point, discuss routes on the mountain, trying to point out the lines of ascent taken by the original French climbers, and the daring line taken solo by Messner in 1974. A more relaxing pastime is to take lunch!

We return to Confluencia for the night. Total Time: 6 to 7 hours return.

Day 7:Trek to Plaza de Mulas (4,365m/14,322ft)
This is a tough day - taking about 8 hours to reach base camp. We start relatively early, armed with no less than 2 litres of water per person, as the valley that stretches ahead is hot, and dusty, even though a river runs across the wide plain of the valley floor.

After 3 to 4 hours of walking, along a very gentle rise, and avoiding river crossing, if possible, in order to keep our boots dry, the valley splits, and the route swings to the right (north). Here, we rest for lunch and prepare for the sudden rise in altitude that will accompany the afternoon's stroll. Initially, this continues in much the same vein as the morning's walk but, just short of base camp, the path rises steeply to complete the hardest day of the expedition, so far. By the time we land in Plaza de Mulas, we will have climbed nearly 1,000 metres during the day.

We settle into our base camp tents, and get to know the local staff who will support us from this point onwards. There will be a mess tent dedicated to our team, which we can use at any time - for meals, for meetings, for socialising or for simply passing the time of day.

Day 8:Acclimatisation and Rest Day at Base Camp
Today, we have a rest day for further acclimatisation. This is a very important day, as some team members will still be feeling the strain of the new altitude after the previous day's hard walking. A day off, allows everyone to readjust and to get ready for the ongoing climb upwards.

We will be supplied with a breakfast, lunch and dinner every day we are in base camp, interspersed by hot drinks being provided regularly, and with drinking water being made readily available to ensure a good level of hydration, to aid acclimatisation.

Day 9:Climb Bonete Peak (5,004-m/16,420ft)
This is a great day out, culminating in our first successful summit, and giving the most brilliant views of Aconcagua on the opposite side of the valley. From the summit of Bonete, almost the entire route to the top of Aconcagua can be studied as it wends it way up the massive sentinel - from base camp to Canaleta!
Day 10:Acclimatisation Day
We take this day to prepare for our first night's stay at one of the higher camps on the mountain. As an aid to acclimatisation, this day helps enormously, but we also need it in order to pack our clothing and equipment in preparation for the next 2 days, away from base camp.

The expedition leader will prepare a list of what to take. At the same time, loads will be prepared for the local porters to carry with them, which ensures you will only have to carry your own personal equipment, with all group stores and food being taken by the porters who support the team.

Day 11:Camp 1, Canada Place (c5,000m/ 16,500ft)
Today, we make our first foray onto the mountain, by climbing to Canadian Place, where we spend our first night sleeping above base camp. The route to the camp follows a well-worn, trail zigzagging up scree to a great campsite on a spur protruding from the mountainside. After an initial steep climb lasting for 1½ hours out of base camp, we rest for lunch at "Conway Rocks" before walking for another 1½ hours to complete the ascent to Canada Place, arriving there by mid-afternoon. The evening can be spent "on the beach" watching the sunset to the west, as it settles down behind Bonete Peak.

This is a really useful day, and past experience has shown that by sleeping on the mountain now, our acclimatisation will be given a huge boost, that will enable us to tackle the mountain with more energy and less difficulty, later on.

Day 12:Camp 2, Nido de Condores (5,559m/ 17,100ft)
Above camp 1, the path continues up scree slopes to an easing in the angle (Cambio de Pendiente) and a final pull to a basin on the north-east ridge, which is the site of Nido de Condores. Here we will have some lunch while enjoying the fabulous views to the west, north and east across the Andes. It will take us about 3 hours to reach Nido from camp 1, but no more than 2 hours to make the descent all the way to base camp, where we arrive by mid-afternoon.

One of the great advantages of having spent a night on the mountain, before committing ourselves to the climb, is that not only we will have become better acclimatised, but we will also have had a chance to refine the equipment we take when we finally go for the top. All-in-all, excellent physical preparation, and a boost to our confidence for the final assault!

Day 13:Rest day at base camp.
The main purpose of today is to rest after climbing to camp 2, but there will also be the opportunity to practice snow and ice craft on a nearby glacier.

We may also take this chance to have a shower. Jagged Globe has a special arrangement with the local refugio (a.k.a. "the hotel"), which allows our team members to take showers at preferential rates. However, mindful of the positive effect a good shower has on morale, we provide 2 showers per person at the refugio as part of the expedition package - so please feel free to stroll over to the hotel and to freshen up, on any of the rest days. The refugio also provides internet access, telephones, table tennis and Jenga - for those with a steady hand!

Day 14:Climb to camp 1 and camp overnight.
This time we leave base camp with our hearts and minds focussed on the summit.

We return for another night in Canada. Now acclimatised to this altitude, we will find we sleep better, and awake better-rested and ready for the onwards push to the higher camps.

Day 15:Climb to camp 2 and camp overnight.
As before, we will arrive in Nido in time for lunch. The guides do all of the cooking above base camp, and they will also provide a ready supply of hot drinks to ensure we remain well hydrated, and fit for the climb.

In the afternoon, we can take a stroll around the large, shallow basin that forms the campsite. From the side opposite the mountain, we get great views of the route, more or less all the way to the top. This includes a good view of the lower slopes above Nido, as they lead to Berlin Huts, and on upwards towards Independencia. More importantly, we get a good look at the traverse that leads across the mountain, at about 6,500 metres, to the foot of the final steep climb to the summit - the gully known as the Canaleta.

Day 16:Acclimatisation day at camp 2.
This day will ensure that when we strike out for the top, we have the final edge to our acclimatisation.
Day 17:Climb to camp 3 at Berlin Huts.
Today we climb new ground and start up the zig-zag path to Berlin Huts; 5,933m (19,468ft). The huts themselves are derelict and we camp on a little-frequented plateau some 300 metres away. From here we have an excellent view of the mountain, although the top still looks a long way above. Time: 3 hours.
Day 18-20:Summit Bid
We have three days in which to reach the summit. This gives us spare time in case of bad weather, but the summit will be attempted on the first day if possible. With an early start, the summit is attainable in about 10 hours.

We awake at 0430 a.m. to check the weather for the day. If the leader and guides agree to go, then everyone needs to get ready for the big day. After a breakfast, and as much to drink as time permits, it's out into the cold pre-dawn night, for a start no later than 6 a.m.

We gain the path above Berlin Huts and zigzag up scree and occasional snow patches to another hut (Independencia) 6,377m. From here, the route crosses the side of the mountain over scree to break out at the start of the traverse that leads to the foot of a large gully leading down from the Summit Ridge. This is the Canaleta, which gives the most strenuous climbing. Eventually it leads to the Summit Ridge and stupendous views straight down the south face of Aconcagua. A 30-minute traverse leads across rocky ground and a well-defined path to a short scramble immediately below the top. This leads, without difficulty, to the final steps that lead to the small summit plateau. Here, a cross marks the highest point in the western and southern hemispheres.

After reaching the summit, celebrating the ascent and taking photographs, we will descend by the normal route back to Berlin Huts.

Day 21:Last night on the mountain.
Today, we will awake tired but elated. Unlike the previous day, we can afford to let the sunlight bathe and warm our tents before we make an appearance, ready for breakfast. However, once up, it will be a race to get ready and to make a rapid descent down scress to base camp, where the staff will be waiting to share in the excitement of our ascent.

We should all have retuned to base camp, by mid-afternoon at the latest, which will give us plenty of time for a shower, to relax and to prepare our bags for the walkout.

Our final lunch and dinner will be especially welcome, and dutifully prepared, as ever - and no doubt accompanied by beer and wine to help the celebrations take root.

Day 22:Exit National Park and return to Mendoza
Today is a long day's trek all the way down the Horcones Valley to the National Park entrance. We will need to start early today (no later than 9 o'clock, if possible) in order to make the journey all the way back to Mendoza. The walk will take about 7 hours, with little time to linger over lunch. After arriving back at the gate, at about 4 p.m., therefore, we then have a 3-hour road journey back to town, where we would expect to be back in the hotel, in time for a quick turnaround, and shower, before heading off for a restaurant at about 9 p.m. along with our local guides in order to celebrate our expedition (which is when the locals go out to eat anyway.)
Day 23:Fly to Buenos Aires
Today, we fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires and a hotel right the centre of the city. This gives very quick access to the main shopping areas, as well as to the dockside area, which has recently been developed. Within easy reach of the hotel, therefore, you can shop for the latest polo tack or "Gucci" handbags, sample traditional restaurants or relax in modern eateries, catering to a wide range of tastes, from steak to wok.
Day 24:Free morning in Buenos Aires
This is the third largest city in Latin America and the second largest Spanish-speaking city in the world. According to peoples' wishes, the leader can arrange a city sightseeing tour, or a guided visit to a local ecological reserve. Alternatively, you might fancy a tango lesson, or try your hand at riding "gaucho" style. After a full day, in the early evening, we leave for the airport and our flight to London.
Day 25:Arrive London

PLEASE NOTE: Please note that the above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, changes may be forced on it by weather conditions, transport failure or other unforeseen events. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Aconcagua: Aconcagua altitude profile, 10 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

All of our expeditions are led by experienced mountaineers. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

A Jagged Globe leader will accompany the team from the UK, and remain with you throughout the expedition (for exceptional reasons, it may be necessary for the leader to join the team in Argentina.)

An Argentine mountain guide will join the team in Mendoza, and remain with the team until it returns there after the climb.

A second Argentine mountain guide will join the team in base camp, and remain with the team until it leaves base camp, taking part in all mountain activities.

A third Argentine guide will join any team of 7 members or more, when it goes on the mountain for the final summit ascent.

High altitude porters will be employed to carry group equipment on days when the team moves between camps.

The maximum team size is 12. Therefore, the guiding arrangements ensure that an enormously advantageous ratio of guides is maintained throughout the trip. This will allow for a great deal of flexibility during the acclimatisation and especially on summit day.

Experience Required

Aconcagua is graded 1C.

Aconcagua is not a trek, it is a mountaineering expedition. Aconcagua is a very big step to make from climbing a peak such as Kilimanjaro. Although it is a non-technical ascent, at just under 7,000 metres, it is a long and extremely tiring climb at altitude. Aconcagua has three camps above base camp. When moving between these camps, team members will need to carry their own personal equipment, which will weigh about 14 Kgs.

It is not uncommon for teams to be pinned down high on the mountain in cold and windy weather, which is notorious on Aconcagua. Summit day is a very long day (12 hour round trip) and very much harder than Kilimanjaro. You must therefore mentally prepare yourself and be committed to this level of effort.

To join this expedition and have a good chance of success you need:

The Introductory Winter Mountaineering course of our Scottish winter programme would help as a build-up to Aconcagua. Alternatively, our Alpine Introduction would also serve as excellent preparation.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

For Aconcagua you need:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!