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Alpamayo

Altitude 5,947m/19,511ft » Duration 23 Days » Grade 4B

An alpine ascent of the 'the world's most beautiful mountain'

Introduction

Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly formed ice pyramid situated in the heart of Peru's Cordillera Blanca. Its impressive shape and spectacularly fluted ice face ensure that it remains a coveted summit for aspiring alpine climbers. This expedition climbs the south-west face by either the Ferrari Route, or the French Direct, on mostly 45° snow and ice. Team members must therefore be comfortable climbing Alpine AD or Scottish III/IV.

After arriving in Huaraz, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, we travel to the Ishinca Valley to acclimatise on some superb peaks, such as Urus Este (5,420m) and Ishinca (5,530m). The traverse of Ishinca is a great outing at Alpine AD-. We then trek into Alpamayo base camp along the famous Santa Cruz Valley and have five days to climb the mountain from a high camp on the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. This col is reached via 1,000m of moraine above base camp and sections of Grade II Scottish Ice.

The classic Ferrari Route is sometimes threatened by a huge serac at the top of the south-west face. This was the case in 2007 when our team chose to climb the French Direct further to the right, as a less objectively dangerous alernative. Though slightly longer (10 rope lengths, rather than 8), this route involves a similar level of technical difficulty and gives a very direct line to the summit.

Expedition Outline

After flying to Lima in Peru, we are driven to Huaraz, the climbing centre of the Cordillera Blanca. In order to prepare ourselves well for Alpamayo, we first visit the wonderful valley of Ishinca, which is perfect for acclimatisation as it has a selection of steady 5,000m peaks to choose from. We climb at least one peak up to around c5,500m in Ishinca, before returning to Huaraz. Then we drive to Cashapampa and walk part of the famous Santa Cruz trek to approach Alpamayo base camp.

On Alpamayo, we use an advantageous climbing ratio to ensure that everyone has the best possible chance to climb the peak. The whole team will climb together from base camp to the higher moraine camp, before moving up to 'Col camp' the following day. This is a spectacular high camp at an altitude of around 5,300m. Over the next two days, team members will attempt the summit climb with the UK leader and local guides, before everyone descends back to base camp. Depending on the condition of the face, we will climb either the Ferrari Route or the French Direct to the summit. The latter is longer, but in recent years has been a more objectively safe line. Jagged Globe teams have been successful on both in the past.

After the trek out, we have a night in Huaraz to relax and celebrate the climb, before returning to Lima and flying back home.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London to Lima via Amsterdam.
We arrive in Lima in the late evening and are taken to our hotel in the city centre. Team members joining in Lima can meet the rest of the team at the hotel and make arrangements for the drive to Huaraz the following morning.
Day 2:Drive to Huaraz.
The drive to Huaraz is one of many contrasts. As we leave the relative wealth of Lima, you are struck by the numerous shantytowns that surround the sprawling capital. These impoverished homes finally dwindle as the city fades and gives way to desert. Despite being next to the Pacific coast, the drive north takes us through land deprived of water and vegetation. The character of the countryside changes gradually as the bus gains altitude and swings slowly East towards Huaraz, the capital and heart of "Andinismo". Although never flush with greenery, plants become more apparent as altitude is gained and the Andes draw closer. Villages become more frequent as the rivers and irrigation make farming possible.

From sea level desert to Huaraz at over 10,000ft, a bustling town with an economy largely based on agriculture and mountaineering, in 8 hours - a journey that is long remembered. To welcome us to the capital of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, we are treated to dinner and we can discuss our climbing plans.

Day 3:Rest day in Huaraz.
Having come from sea level to 3,100m, it is important for us to have a rest day today. The emphasis is on a balanced acclimatisation and so you may wish to relax in the morning, visit the market in the afternoon and climb a small hill behind the town in the evening, in order to get extraordinary pictures of the Cordillera Blanca as the sun goes down.
Day 4:Walk from Huaraz to Languna Chirup (4,400m).
As the ascent to Ishinca base is strenuous, we take an extra day to acclimatise before setting out. Today's walk takes us high to a beautiful lake and includes 6 hours walking for the round trip. We return to our hotel base in the evening much better prepared for the move to base camp tomorrow.
Day 5:Drive to Collon, trek to Ishinca.
We are collected from our hotel and driven to the village of Collon just a little north of Huaraz where our walk to Ishinca starts. After following the main road north for some 14-km, a track leads off left near the village of Paltay. The drive up the track to Collon takes about half an hour. From Collon, we begin our walk with the help of burros (donkeys) to carry our main climbing and camping equipment. The path passes through a lovely quenual forest overlooked by huge rock cliffs. We eventually arrive at a moraine cirque, which surrounds the valley base camp. Urus (5,420m), Toclaraju (6,032m), Palcaraju (6,110m), Ishinca (5,530m) and Ranrapalca (6,162m) stand aloft the rim of the cirque.
Day 6:Acclimatisation in Ishinca.
Today is used for acclimatisation and to organise equipment for the first climb. It is necessary for the guides to check through personal equipment and also rehearse some techniques that are needed during the expedition. In the afternoon, the group goes for a short, steady ridge walk near the camp. This allows us a further degree of acclimatisation, but following the maxim "climb high, sleep low", we return to the base camp for the night.
Day 7:Move to Moraine Camp.
We place ourselves in a better position for success on the mountain and more thorough acclimatisation, by moving up to a higher camp today. The main glacier on the mountain is reached after about 4 hours following steep but well marked (cairns) dirt tracks. We camp here ready for an early start for the summit.
Day 8:Ascent of Ishinca (5,530m).
If an early start is made, we can climb the mountain and return to the valley by mid-afternoon. The start of the route on the glacier is marked by a collection of cairns from where we climb towards the SW ridge. The ridge is then followed (40 to 45°) to the summit. The team then descends by the same route all the way down to the valley base camp.
Day 9:Ascent of Urus Este (5,420m).
Today, depending on the wishes of the group, we may either make an ascent of Urus Este or have a rest day. From base camp, we climb directly up the slope below the Urus glacier to gain easy snow slopes. We then follow the SSE ridge, without difficulty, until we climb 2 straightforward rock steps just below the summit. The climb from base camp takes between 5 and 6 hours depending on conditions. The evening is spent resting at base camp.
Day 10:Return to Huaraz, overnight in hotel.
The donkey men arrive in base camp early in the morning, so we must be packed up and ready to go for 9 a.m. The walk out takes approximately 1˝ hours, we are met by our transport and are taken back to Huaraz for mid-afternoon.
Day 11:Drive to Cashapampa and the Trek to Llamacorral.
We leave Huaraz at 0630 after an early breakfast and drive to Cashapampa at the start of the Santa Cruz trek. The trek through the first part of the valley can be very hot so it is important to walk unhurriedly and to carry plenty of water. We pass through the entrance gate at the start of the valley and then follow the river through fantastic scenery to camp next to the river. The camp at Llamacorral, is about 4 hours walk.
Day 12:Llamacorral to Base Camp.
Today we trek further up the trail then swing up the left hand side of the valley to reach base camp with stunning views of Santa Cruz and Artesonraju on the way. We can expect to reach Alpamayo base camp (4,300m) by mid afternoon.
Day 13:Rest day at Alpamayo base camp (4,300m).
This is a day to prepare ourselves for the climb. In the morning, we check our gear and decide what we are taking up unto the mountain. We are also likely to meet other teams who have completed the Ferrari route and can find out the latest conditions. The afternoon is spent resting and eating.
Day 14:Climb to Moraine camp.
From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and we may opt to climb all the way to Col camp in one day (total time, 6 hours).
Day 15:Climb to Col camp (5,300m).
The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the Col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp in a fantastic position at the foot of the South West face.
Day 16:Alpamayo summit day (5,947m).
The team should be well acclimatised by now, having already been to around 5,500m in the Ishinca valley. Those members of the group who are feeling fresh and ready to go can make the summit climb today. For those who would prefer to rest a day at the Col camp, they may kick back, relax and take in the awesome mountain scenery.

The route from the col crosses the snow bowl and climbs up to the bergschrund below the South West face. This should take approximately two hours. After crossing the bergschrund, we are on the main face and the Ferrari route; this is what you've come for! There are seven or eight pitches of steep ice, mostly 50°, leading rightwards through runnels and flutings, past abseil anchors to the summit ridge. The final couple of pitches steepen up to a juicy 70° and overall, the climbing is around Alpine AD/AD+ or Ice Grade 3. It should take approximately 7 hours to reach the summit. If the Ferrari Route is threatened by serac fall, we will opt for the longer French Direct route, which is a similar technical grade. Descent is by abseil and we will then return to the camp on the col.

Day 17:Second summit day.
The second group climbs to the summit today, with the first group resting at Col Camp.
Day 18:Spare day.
This is a spare day in case of bad weather.
Day 19:Descend to base camp.
We may have descended the day before, if the ascents are made at the earliest opportunities. Otherwise, we will descend today, to base camp (5 hours), ready for the walk and return drive to Huaraz tomorrow.
Day 20:Return trek and drive to Huaraz.
We trek out to Cashapampa and then return to Huaraz. Time to relax after the climbing, to eat, to drink and, hopefully, to celebrate!
Day 21:Drive to Lima, overnight hotel.
We say goodbye to our leader (who is joining our team on Huascaran) and make the journey back to Lima.
Day 22:Fly to London.
We may just get a farewell view of our mountains as we cross the Andes for the last time and head home.
Day 23:Arrive London.

PLEASE NOTE: Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, unforeseen circumstances may force changes to be made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Alpamayo: Alpamayo altitude profile, 14 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Extensions

Huascaran Extension
Having acclimatised on Alpamayo, you can join the Huascaran team on day 14 of their itinerary and travel to Huascaran. The ascent of Peru's highest mountain will round off an amazing 5 weeks climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. See the Huascaran Expedition Itinerary.

The extension costs £560 per person. Please indicate on your booking form if you wish to book this

Leadership

All of our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

Neal Short will be leading the 2009 Alpamayo and Huascaran expeditions. Neal is one of our most experienced leaders, having led previous expeditions for us to Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Khan Tengri, amongst others. Neal's impressive mountaineering CV includes ascents of Denali via the rarely-climbed West Rib, a solo of the Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua and classic north faces in the Alps. Since 2001, Neal has led fourteen expeditions for Jagged Globe and is one of our most popular and successful leaders. Whether on steep, technical ground or on big 8,000ers, Neal knows what it takes to get the most out of a team and to ensure that members fulfil their potential.

Experience Required

Alpamayo is graded 4B.

Alpamayo is suitable for climbers with previous Alpine or winter experience of routes graded at least Scottish III/Alpine AD or equivalent.

This is an alpine-style ascent (no fixed ropes); climbers need to be comfortable seconding steep ice (up to 60°) with two axes, as well as being able to abseil confidently. Previous experience of climbing at altitude is preferable, but not essential.

You also need to be fit as you have to carry your own personal equipment and share of food from Alpamayo base camp up to Col camp. The local guides carry group equipment (e.g. tents, stoves, climbing rope) on the mountain and on summit day, you only carry what you need for that day.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Alpamayo, you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!