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Bolivian Climber

Altitude 6,462m/21,200ft » Duration 22 Days » Grade 3B

A Jagged Globe classic - ascents of four inspiring peaks in the Bolivian Cordillera Real

Introduction

Straddling the Andes, Bolivia is an unspoilt high-altitude country, which boasts some very high yet conveniently accessible mountains. Bolivian Climber is an exciting, well-balanced itinerary, climbing four major peaks. The expedition is particularly suitable for those who have completed Alpine routes of PD or Himalayan peaks such as Mera, or equivalent.

As always, we take great care to allow adequate acclimatisation on this expedition. After visiting the famous Lake Titicaca, we warm up on Pico Austria (5,100m) and Pequeño Alpamayo (5,337m) in the Condoriri area.

Our main climbing objectives are Huayna Potosi (6,094m) and Illimani (6,462m), which overlooks the capital city, La Paz. Both provide excellent snow climbs with the most challenging day being the summit day on Illimani. The most difficult section involves at least one rope length of 50° ice climbing at an altitude of over 5,800m.

Over the past few years, our teams have been extremely successful with members regularly summiting on Huayna Potosi and Illimani. Part of this success is down to our excellent English-speaking Bolivian guides, who are familiar with the mountains and local conditions. Our head Bolivian guide, Carlos Escobar, summited Everest in 2006 as a guide on our Jagged Globe expedition. This wider expedition experience is invaluable and strengthens the bond between our in-country guides and the leaders that we send from the UK.

Bolivian Climber continues to be one of our most popular expeditions, balancing an action-packed programme of climbing with well-earned rest periods and memorable cultural elements.

Illimani and Huayna Potosi

The main mountain range of Bolivia is known as the Cordillera Real (Royal Cordillera). The first mountain climbers to visit Bolivia were Austrians, who declared the Cordillera Real to be the "Himalaya of the New World". Approximately 190km (120miles) long and 30km (20miles) wide, the Cordillera Real forms an impressive rock and glacier barrier containing more than 22 peaks between 5,000m and 6,500m high. The highest point is Illimani 21,200ft (6,462m) which overlooks the capital city of La Paz. It is not surprising that this mountain is the emblem of the city.

Following four days in the mountains of Condoriri acclimatising, we head for base camp at the foot of Huayna Potosi and our first 6,000-metre challenge. We climb Illimani after climbing Huayna Potosi 19,993ft (6,094m). Both mountains provide excellent climbs, which are never very difficult but have sections that provide some technical climbing interest.

Bolivian Climber with Jagged Globe

Jagged Globe has experience of running mountaineering expeditions to Bolivia stretching back to 1983 when Operations Director, Simon Lowe first climbed there. Since then, we have returned in 1986, 1993 and every year since 1994. We know the mountains extremely well and without a doubt, use the best in-country service provider available.

Our ratios of leaders and guides to team members on the main peaks are higher than other operators, giving us greater flexibility and improving your chance of success on summit day. We use a 1:3 ratio (UK leader and local guides) on all summits until Illimani, where we use a 1:2 ratio. Porters are employed to carry group equipment to high camps on all peaks.

With the best hotels in La Paz and Copacabana (Lake Titicaca), you can be sure of being well rested between climbs. You can prepare for the expedition with advice from members of our office team who have first-hand experience of the mountains and a Pre-expedition meeting in North Wales. Overall, we are here to provide you with the best support and service available for your Bolivian Climber expedition.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London to La Paz, via Sao Paulo.
Day 2:Arrive in La Paz in the morning.
We are met by our in-country agent at El Alto International Airport and taken to our hotel in the centre of La Paz City.
Day 3:At leisure in La Paz.
A free day in La Paz for acclimatisation, relaxing and visiting the city - ancient and modern. Although the city rests in a natural basin some 1,000ft below the level of the Altiplano (the high altitude plateau on which the airport and Lake Titicaca sits), it is still at an altitude of 12,000ft/3636m and is the highest capital city in the world. Our main objective, Illimani, which is some 40 miles away, dominates the view along the chain of the Andes.
Day 4:Lake Titicaca.
Today, we drive to Copacabana, an important place of pilgrimage for South Americans, on the shores of Lake Titicaca (it also bequeathed its name to the more famous beach in Rio). This visit provides an interesting cultural diversion while we acclimatise further. There are plenty of things to do and places of interest to see, including the Inca Gallows from where to watch the sunset over the lake in the evening. We overnight in a local hotel.
Day 5:Visit Island of the Sun.
An early morning boat trip takes us to the island of the Sun. This was a principal shrine for the indigenous Incas and pre-Inca, Tiahuanaco peoples of the Altiplano. A local guide will explain the significance of the island and of its close neighbour, the Moon. We return to Copacabana for the night.
Day 6:Drive to Tuni.
Today, we drive to the village of Tuni, gateway to the spectacular Condoriri range of mountains. Once the camp has been set up, we have a short trek to the reservoir above the village, hopefully to see why this range of mountains is named after the bird of the Andes, the Condor. Condoriri is one of the most beautiful peaks in Bolivia and quite possibly in the entire Andes.
Day 7:Trek to Condoriri base camp.
After an early breakfast, mules and llamas are loaded for our trek to Condoriri base camp, at about 4,600 metres. After setting up camp, we have the chance to explore the area and prepare for the next few days.
Day 8:Point Austria.
Today, we climb Point Austria, a 5,300m peak overlooking the camp, with magnificent views towards the main Condoriri range. Here, we get to view the impressive Pequeno Alpamayo, a peak we climb later.
Day 9:Glacier training.
We have a late start today before walking up to a large glacier. Here we run a skills workshop and refresh our proficiency in such things as roping up for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. After lunch, we return to camp and prepare for an early night.
Day 10:Pequeno Alpamayo Ascent (5,400m).
After a 3:00am breakfast, we set off for the climb of Pequeno Alpamayo, 5,400m, a beautiful snow pyramid. We return to camp by mid-afternoon. Although not the highest mountain we climb, the route can be the most technically challenging. This peak therefore provides a fitting completion to our acclimatisation and training phase, being excellent preparation for the more rigorous climbing at higher altitude to come!
Day 11:Huayna Potosi base camp.
Today, we move our base camp to the foot of our first major objective Huayna Potosi. Mules and llamas carry our gear back to the road-head in the village of Tuni, where our vehicles will be waiting. We then drive around to Cumbre Zongo, at 4,700m, and set up camp for the night before our climb of Huayna Potosi.
Day 12:Load carry to Huayna Potosi high camp.
The few porterdors we have carry tents and food, while we carry our personal gear. A well-marked trail leads to a large glacial moraine, then a broken rocky mountainside, which leads onto ice fields. We soon reach our camp known as Campamento Argentino at 5,400m, having carefully skirted around a few crevasses en route. We aim to arrive at the camp in time for a good rest, in preparation for the early start the following day.
Day 13:Huayana Potosi Ascent (6,094m).
We set off at about 3 a.m. The initial easy slopes soon give way to a large bergshrund with a short steep slope beyond. This leads up to a higher area of easy slopes, which trend under the eastern side of the main summit. We pass this to gain the exposed northern ridge of the mountain, which doubles back several hundred feet above the path we have just walked, before landing us excitedly on the summit. After 6 hours hard work, the top rewards us with a fine panorama of the Taquasi Massif, Ancohuma to the north, our next peak Illimani to the south and, in the distance, the volcano of Sajama. A few hours after leaving the summit, we are back at Campamento Argentino where we have a quick lunch before heading back to base camp at Zongo.
Day 14:Rest day in La Paz.
If we have climbed the mountain on the previous day, we leave base camp as early as possible to get back to the city by lunchtime. We spend the night back in the comfort of our hotel.
Day 15:Illimani base camp.
Today, we set off for our main objective, Illimani. After driving to Pinaya, we hike to base camp at Puente Roto at 4,400m. Mules help to ease the burden and carry all of our group equipment as well as personal loads. This leaves us free with a daypack to go at our own pace and to arrive in base camp reasonable well rested for the climb ahead. The walk only takes about 3 hours but the steep ground makes for thirsty work so carry some water.
Day 16:Illimani high camp.
After negotiating some steep moraine, we follow a rocky ridge crest for 4 to 5 hours and establish a high camp on a level snow and rock platform known as Nido de Condores (the Condors' Nest) at 5,400m.
Day 17-18:Illimani Ascent (6,462m).
This is a long hard day, but the fitness and acclimatisation gained in Condoriri and on Huayna Potosi prepares us well for it. The route follows the snow ridge immediately above the camp before trending left onto moderately steep slopes. After 2 hours, these slopes give way to a flat section, which runs as a steepening ridge to join the mountain below the main summit snowfields. To gain these upper slopes it is necessary to climb "Simon's Steps to Heaven". This is the steepest section of the climb and involves 50m of climbing at about 60 degrees. The condition of the snow and ice here dictates how technically difficult the pitch is but, however hard, the physical effort is strenuous at almost 20,000 ft. The guides fix a rope on this section to ensure a safe passage, which is rewarded by access to the upper reaches of the mountain.

With the summit now firmly fixed in your sights, cramponing up the slopes above eventually leads to the summit ridge. It takes about 6 hours to reach this point. The summit itself is now less than one hour further along the ridge. With no great technical difficulty, except the odd crevasse to circumvent, the ridge finally yields and the summit of Illimani draws into view. Throughout the ascent but particularly from the summit, the clear air affords us some extraordinary views along the spine of the Cordillera Real and of the jungle and Lake Titicaca. As with Huayna Potosi, we have allowed 2 days to make the climb.

Day 19:Spare day in case of bad weather.
Day 20:Return to La Paz.
Return to base camp and drive back to La Paz. There will be plenty of opportunity in the evening to celebrate our climb.
Day 21:Return flight to London.
Evening departure for London. Those who are doing the Rio Extension will fly out in the afternoon.
Day 22:Arrive London Heathrow.

PLEASE NOTE: Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, unforeseen circumstances may force changes to be made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Bolivian Climber: Bolivian Climber altitude profile, 15 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The leader of Bolivian Climber is supported by our local guides. 1:3 ratio on all peaks except Illimani which has a 1:2 ratio. Porterage to high camps on all major peaks is included.

Experience Required

Bolivian Climber is graded 3B.

Most of the climbing on the Bolivian Climber expedition is low angle terrain, but short steep sections demand confidence on snow and ice.

To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you must have:

As mules or porterdors carry the tents and food, there is no heavy load carrying on the expedition and team members should expect to carry only their personal equipment.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join Bolivian Climber you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!