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Expeditions to the Seven Summits

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Carstensz Pyramid

Altitude 4,884m/16,023ft » Duration 22 Days » Grade 4A

Australasia's highest mountain - the most mysterious of the continental summits

Introduction

Rising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papua in Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive of the Seven Summits. Its remoteness, combined with government restrictions, political instability in the region and frequent tribal warring, has meant that few people have climbed it since the first ascent in 1961. It is undoubtedly the most adventurous, exciting and uncertain trip that we do.

Since 1994 we have organised ten expeditions to Carstensz Pyramid, with each one being different in some way. In 2006 our team used a helicopter to access base camp. Our 2007 and 2008 teams accessed the mountain through the controversial Freeport Mine.

The climb itself follows a direct route up slabs and corners on the north face of the mountain to reach the summit ridge. This lower section of the climb involves scrambling and rock climbing up to grade 'severe' (USA 5.4). On the ridge, three 'notches' must be negotiated, the first of which necessitates abseiling/rappelling into the notch and jumaring a fixed rope out the other side. Team members therefore need to have appropriate ropework skills and rock climbing experience.

If you are considering Carstensz Pyramid, please recognise that the expedition is wrought with difficulty, wrought with the potential for political upheaval and for last minute itinerary changes. It is essential that you approach this challenge with a high degree of flexibility, as it is normal for dates and itineraries to change. However, for those looking for a real adventurers trip, undeterred by the bureaucracy and uncertainty of Indonesian politics, Carstensz defines organised 'adventure travel' at its most audacious.

A Real Adventure

West Papua boasts a long ridge of snow-capped mountains, which overlook impenetrable jungle, mangrove swamps and broad rivers. The primitive Dani people, who are related to the Australian Aborigines, the Papuans and the Polynesians, inhabit the region. The contrasts of the landscape and the stone-age culture of its inhabitants has bewildered and amazed all who visit.

The mountain and the area surrounding it is designated a nature reserve (also named after Jan Carstensz, the Dutch explorer who discovered the mountains in the 17th century). This, and in particular the dense jungle surrounding the mountains, is vibrant with wildlife. West Papua contains over 600 species of birds, with crocodiles, snakes, anteaters, butterflies, tree kangaroos, wallabies and other typically Australasian species.

Carstensz Pyramid is an impressive name and the mountain lives up to it. The normal route of ascent follows the line pioneered by Heinrich Harrer in 1962 up the north side of the mountain. There are now many other routes up Carstensz, but the Harrer route is by far the most popular and one of the most straightforward.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1-2:Fly London to Manado, Bali.
Day 3:Fly to Sugapa.
Briefing.
Day 4:Preparations.
Day 5 - 10 :Trek to base camp via New Zealand Pass (3,700m).
Day 11:Acclimatisation.
Time to acclimatise and organise ourselves. We can practice our abseiling and jumaring techniques on an outcrop near base camp, prior to going on the mountain.
Day 12-13:Climb Carstensz Pyramid.
We have set aside two days to make a summit ascent. The climb itself follows an intricate scrambling and rock climbing route up the North Face, utilising fixed ropes to safeguard us. Once we hit the ridge, three notches must be descended and jumared out of, the first of which is the crux of the route and involves a short, free hanging section. The views from the summit across the jungle of Irian Jaya are quite spectacular. Descent is by the same route and involves abseiling. Recent teams have climbed Carstensz in alpine mountaineering boots and stress that leather gloves are essential due to the extremely rough rock. Good waterproof shell clothing is also necessary as it often rains heavily, whatever the time of year! Summit day from base camp to base camp is a 14-hour round trip.
Day 14:Spare weather day.
Day 15 - 18:Return trek.
Day 19:Flight to Timika.
Day 20:Flight to Bali.
Day 21 - 22:Flight from Manado to London.

PLEASE NOTE: This is a provisional itinerary, based on accessing the mountain via trekking from Sugapa. However, this itinerary may changes at any time. The local political situation is extremely volatile. Team members should expect disruption, delays and changes to the expedition itinerary and quite possibly, the expedition dates. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU TAKE OUT INSURANCE WITH THIS TRIP, WITH COVER FOR CANCELLATION, UPON BOOKING.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Carstensz Pyramid: Carstensz Pyramid altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountains.

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by very experienced mountain leaders. In selecting suitable leaders, our prime concern is that they have an excellent personal track-record of climbing at high altitudes...read more about leaders.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be one of our most experienced and qualified leaders, who will be supported by a local Indonesian guide and cook staff.

Experience Required

Carstensz Pyramid is graded 4A.

Carstensz Pyramid is the lowest of the Seven Summits, with the challenge being technical rock climbing, rather than the rigours of climbing at high altitude. Participants need to be familiar with rock climbing techniques and associated ropework. The climb is made from base camp and can easily be a 16 hour round trip. To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you need:

Our Rock climbing and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for this expedition.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service

For the Carstensz Pyramid expedition, you need the following specialist equipment:

PHD Mountain Software make specialist clothing suitable for this expedition. Visit the Carstensz Pyramid page of their Trip Advisor.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £1,500 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!