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Expeditions to the Seven Summits

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Carstensz Pyramid

Altitude 4,884m/16,023ft » Duration 20 Days » Grade 4A

Australasia's highest mountain - the most mysterious of the continental summits

Introduction

Rising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papua (formerly Irian Jaya) in Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive of the Seven Summits. Its remoteness, combined with government restrictions and political instability in the region, has meant that few people have climbed it since the first ascent in 1961.

Jagged Globe ran its first expedition to Carstensz in 1994. This and other early expeditions reached the mountain through the controversial Freeport Mine, the biggest copper and gold mine in the world. Access through the mine was closed in 2001 and this route in remains illegal. Permits for Carstensz became unavailable between 2002 and 2005, due to local unrest in West Papua. Once restrictions were lifted again, in 2005, we sought a new way of reaching the mountain, opting to fly over the politically sensitive areas. In July 2006, the first Jagged Globe team to attempt Carstensz for five years flew to Jakarta, then onwards to Wamena, where they spent a few days acclimatising at Habema Lake, before flying by helicopter directly into base camp. The team spent five days in base camp and were lucky enough to climb the mountain on the best weather day of their stay.

West Papua boasts a long ridge of snow-capped mountains, which overlook impenetrable jungle, mangrove swamps and broad rivers. The primitive Dani people, who are related to the Australian Aborigines, the Papuans and the Polynesians, inhabit the region. The contrasts of the landscape and the stone-age culture of its inhabitants has bewildered and amazed all who visit.

The mountain and the area surrounding it is designated a nature reserve (also named after Jan Carstensz, the Dutch explorer who discovered the mountains in the 17th century). This, and in particular the dense jungle surrounding the mountains, is vibrant with wildlife. West Papua contains over 600 species of birds, with crocodiles, snakes, anteaters, butterflies, tree kangaroos, wallabies and other typically Australasian species.

Carstensz Pyramid is an impressive name and the mountain lives up to it. The normal route of ascent follows the line pioneered by Heinrich Harrer in 1962 up the north side of the mountain. There are now many other routes up Carstensz, but the Harrer route is by far the most popular and one of the most straightforward. It contains sections of V-Diff - Severe (5.3 - 5.4) rock climbing with one pitch of VS - HVS (5.7 - 5.9) which is led by the leader and fixed with a rope, which is jumared.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1-2:Fly London Heathrow to Jakarta via Singapore. Arrival in the morning. Overnight hotel in Jakarta.
Day 3:Evening flight from Jakarta to Jayapura, arriving the following day.
Day 4:Arrival in Jayapura.
Connecting flight in the afternoon to Wamena. Travel to Habema Lake (c3,200m)
Day 5:Acclimatisation walks around Habema Lake.
Day 6: Return to Wamena.
Final preparations.
Day 7:Helicopter flight from Wamena to Carstensz BC (4,050m).
Day 8-13:Climb Carstensz Pyramid.
We have 6 days at BC to acclimatise and make summit ascents. We practice our abseiling and jumaring techniques on an outcrop near base camp, prior to going on the mountain. The climb itself follows an intricate scrambling and rock climbing route up the North Face, utilising fixed ropes to safeguard us. Once we hit the ridge, three notches must be descended and jumared out of, the first of which is the crux of the route and involves a short, free hanging section. The views from the summit across the jungle of Irian Jaya are quite spectacular. Descent is by the same route and involves abseiling. Recent teams have climbed Carstensz in alpine mountaineering boots and stress that leather gloves are essential due to the extremely rough rock. Good waterproof shell clothing is also necessary as it often rains heavily, whatever the time of year! Summit day from base camp to base camp is a 14-hour round trip.
Day 14:Return flight to Wamena.
Day 15:Cultural trips around Wamena. A day to meet members of the Dani Tribe.
Day 16:Flight from Wamena to Jakarta via Jayapura.
Day 17:Early morning flight from Jakarta to London.

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset! WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU TAKE OUT INSURANCE WITH THIS TRIP, WITH COVER FOR CANCELLATION, UPON BOOKING.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Carstensz Pyramid: Carstensz Pyramid altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountains.

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be one of our most experienced and qualified leaders, who will be supported by a local Indonesian guide and cook staff.

Experience Required

Carstensz Pyramid is graded 4A.

Carstensz Pyramid is the lowest of the Seven Summits, with the challenge being technical rock climbing, rather than the rigours of climbing at high altitude. Participants need to be familiar with rock climbing techniques and associated ropework. The climb is made from base camp and can easily be a 16 hour round trip. To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you need:

Our Rock climbing and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for this expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service

For the Carstensz Pyramid expedition, you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £800 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!