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Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

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Cathedral Peak

Altitude 6,247m/20,497ft » Duration 23 Days » Grade 3B

One of the most accessible 6,000m peaks in the Karakoram

Introduction

This expedition is a superb climbing experience in a dramatic setting. Cathedral Peak is a beautiful pyramid of snow and ice and one of the most accessible 6,000m peaks in the Karakoram. Located in the Hushe Valley of Baltistan, it lies on a ridge separating the Masherbrum and Aling Glaciers, just a few miles south of the towering bulk of 7,821m Masherbrum. First climbed by an Italian party in 1988, the Jagged Globe team in 2006 made only the 5th ascent of the mountain.

The Hushe Valley has become famous in recent years for offering some of the most dramatic scenery and best climbing in the Karakoram Himalaya. Cathedral Peak Base Camp (BC) is a short trek from the roadhead, enabling us to minimise travel time and maximise climbing time in this 3-week expedition. Two camps will be used above BC. The climbing is varied and not without some difficulties with steep snow and ice slopes between camps 1 and 2, as well as a short steep summit section. Fixed ropes will be used as needed and High Altitude Porters (HAPs) will be employed to carry the bulk of the group equipment.

This expedition offers a unique chance to participate in a technical ascent of a rarely climbed peak in the heart of the Karakoram Himalaya. It is almost certain that there will be no other climbing groups in the area during our ascent.

Expedition Outline

Our international flight arrives in Islamabad in the early morning. We transfer to the domestic terminal for the spectacular flight to Skardu. This fight gives great views of the Karakoram Range and flies close to Nanga Parbat. This flight is often cancelled because of bad weather. In this case we will drive to Skardu by road along the Karakoram Highway (KKH). This is a two day journey requiring 24-28 hours driving and we will spend a night in either Besham or Chilas. Skardu is the administrative capital of Baltistan and the base for expeditions visiting this region of the Karakoram. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the many travellers purchasing supplies and hiring porters.

Our next destination is the small village of Hushe, which is a 135km drive from Skardu. The road is good as far as the town of Khaplu and this section of the drive is fast and smooth. Along the way we pass through several villages where local farmers can be seen working in the fields. The road changes to a narrow mountain track as we drive north into the Hushe Valley towards the massive peak of Masherbrum (7,821m) that stands at the head of the valley. We spend an afternoon in the village meeting the local staff who will work with our expedition. After hiring our local porters, we embark on the one day trek to Base Camp. This takes us from the lush fields surrounding the village, through the sparse mountain pastures to the edge of the Masherbrum Glacier. Base Camp is located on a level grassy plain under the towering peak of Masherbrum.

We have more than two weeks to climb Cathedral Peak. The route climbs the mountain from its eastern side. From Base Camp (3,900m), we climb a small rocky side valley towards the Drenmo Glacier. Camp 1 (4,850m) is located on a grassy ledge before the start of the glacier. A steep snow gully leads between a rock wall and an icefall to gain a large level snow plateau where we make Camp 2 (5,800m). This will be the launching point for our summit push. The porters will carry most of our equipment as we make a number of steady altitude gains and light load carries between camps to aid acclimatisation. The route on summit day crosses the plateau and follows steepening snow slopes on the South Face and East Ridge which is followed to the top.

Following our descent we return to Base Camp for a brief rest and a wash before packing up all the equipment. We make the trek to Hushe in the early morning where we meet our jeeps and drive to Skardu on the same day. From here, we travel to Islamabad by air if possible, or by road if the flight is cancelled due to bad weather. Once in Islamabad there will be time for relaxing and sightseeing and a chance to celebrate the success of our expedition in fine style. The team departs from Islamabad the next day.

The Climb

Cathedral Peak is a new expedition that was added to the Jagged Globe programme in 2006. This is not a peak which is regularly climbed by guided parties, and there was an element of exploration to our first expedition. Previous ascents of the peak from the Masherbrum valley were made by Italians in 1988, British in 1991 and the Pakistan Army in 1996. There are unconfirmed reports of an Irish ascent from the Aling valley a few years ago.

The route on Cathedral Peak cannot be seen clearly from the surrounding steep sided valleys. Its true size and shape can only be seen from high vantage points on surrounding peaks. Pictures taken from the upper slopes of Masherbrum, a few kilometres to the North, show that the upper slopes of Cathedral Peak form an almost perfect pyramid. A vast snow plateau stretches below the South face. This is marked on some maps as the Aling Ice cap. Seracs guard the eastern approaches to this plateau from the Masherbrum Glacier. Gaining access to this plateau is the key to a successful ascent.

Base Camp (3,960m) is located at the junction of the Masherbrum and Drenmo Glaciers. This camp is only a one day walk from Hushe village and this makes Cathedral Peak one of the most accessible 6,000m summits in the Karakoram. From the grassy base camp, the route follows moderately angled rock and scree slopes to Camp 1. A snow and ice gully leads to camp 2, and the route to the summit is also entirely on snow and ice. Camp 1 will be placed at a height of 4,860m, Camp 2 at 5,800m. These heights were established by our 2006 expedition using GPS equipment.

Leaving Base Camp, the route to camp 1 follows the valley of the Drenmo Glacier. The walking is mostly on uneven glacial moraine and care has to be taken when choosing a route over the unstable boulder fields. The route moves onto the edge of the glacier for a few short sections. A small section of moderately angled snow is crossed before we reach the site of Camp 1 on a grassy ledge (4-5 hrs). From this spot the seracs and ice cliffs guarding the snow plateau above can be clearly seen.

Above this camp a small glacier and open snowfield leads to a small colat 5,100m. From here the route turns right to follow a rocky scree slope to the start of the fixed ropes at 5,350m. Our route to the plateau climbs diagonally upward crossing rocky ground to an obvious snow and ice couloir bounded on the right by a steep rock wall, and on the left by a hanging glacier. We cross this couloir to gain easier ground below the final steepening slopes. The route takes a direct line up this steep snow face for a distance of 300m to gain the edge of the snow plateau. We will fix 600 - 700m of rope on the sections of the route between camps one and two. Team members must be aware that there is a risk of stonefall on this section of the route, so it is important to climb early in the day and move quickly. Camp 2 is located 50m form the edge of the ascent slope (5-6 hrs).

The route to the summit from Camp 2 is quite straightforward but route finding can be a problem in the hours of darkness. A shallow ridge leads onto the South face proper, which is climbed directly with a few detours to avoid seracs. Near the top of the face the route bears left to join the East Ridge. The summit can be guarded by a large cornice and finding a way around this can be the technical crux of the climb. Once a rope has been fixed to overcome this difficulty, the team members will be able to jumar onto the final easy angled summit slopes. Depending on snow conditions up to 350m of rope may be fixed on summit day. (5-7 hrs ascent/2-3 hrs descent).

The summit gives excellent views over the surrounding peaks. The huge icy slopes of Masherbrum dominate the northern skyline and just block the view to K2. A little to the east, the summits of Broad Peak, the Gasherbrum Range (I, II, III and IV) and Chogolisa can be seen. Closer still are the peaks of the Charakusa Valley: K6, K7, Namika and Drifica. Just to the west of Masherbrum are the rock walls and spires of the lower Baltoro Glacier, including the Lobsang, Trango and cathedral groups, with the peaks and plains of Chinese Xinjiang lying beyond.

Fixed ropes will be placed on any steep or awkward sections on the climb and straightforward sections will be well marked with marker wands. Prior to the summit push, all members need to help with the load carrying and placement of camps. This not only supports the logistic build-up on the mountain, which we need for a safe ascent, but also provides essential acclimatisation for each member. Even so, high altitude porters do most of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out before they can attempt the summit. Members will do no more load carrying than they require to move their personal equipment and ensure their acclimatisation.

The exact programme on the mountain will depend on a number of factors, including prevailing weather and snow conditions, plus team members' degree of fitness and acclimatisation. However all members of the group should expect to make two or three journeys to Camp 1 and one or two journeys to Camp 2, plus a summit bid. This may require 7 or 8 days of activity on the mountain for each person during the 13 days allocated to the climb. Climbers joining this expedition will be required to have the strength and stamina to make these targets, as well as the ability to rest and live efficiently in the high camps. High daytime temperatures during good weather spells often mean that much of the climbing above the snowline is undertaken in the early hours of the morning. It is typical to start from camp 1 at 2.00 - 3.00 am and reach camp 2 by 8.00 - 9.00 a.m.

Overall, the route is reasonably safe. The campsites are not threatened by any significant avalanche danger. The route to camp 1 is free from objective hazards. The route between camps 1 and 2 is exposed to some stonefall danger particularly later in the day. We will aim to always climb this section in the early morning. The summit slopes involve some very steep climbing on snow and ice and the expedition leader will assess the condition of these slopes before making a summit bid. Fixed ropes will be used on the steepest sections. Given reasonable snow and weather conditions this route offers a good chance of summit success for strong climbers who are able to adapt to the demands of 'expedition style' mountaineering.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Islamabad
Day 2:Arrive in Islamabad, fly to Skardu (2,300m)
This is a spectacular flight to the edge of the Karakoram Mountains, giving great views of Nanga Parbat and many other famous peaks. This flight is weather dependent so if it is cancelled, the team will travel to Skardu by road. We stay overnight in the K2 hotel overlooking the Indus River.
Day 3:Travel by Jeep to Hushe (3,100m)
Jeeps take us Eastwards following the Indus and Shyok Rivers on a good road to the town of Khaplu. We then cross the wide floodplain of the Shyok River and head North into the Hushe valley on a mountain track. We camp in a pleasant campsite in the middle of Hushe village (5-6hrs).
Day 4:Trek to Base Camp (3,900m)
We hire local porters from the village to carry our equipment for the one day walk to base camp. There is a good path for the first part of the journey, passing through fields and pastures close to the village. The scenery becomes rockier before we reach the grassy campsite of Brumumblama situated in the ablation valley on the northern side of the Masherbrum Glacier (4-5hrs).
Day 5:Rest day at base camp
A day to get established at base camp and to sort out personal and group equipment. We prepare for the climb.
Day 6-18:Ascent of Cathedral Peak
We have up to 13 days to climb the peak. Two camps will be established above BC: camp 1 at 4,850m and camp 2 at 5,800m. Group members will work alongside our HAP's (high altitude porters) carrying light loads to stock the camps in preparation for a summit attempt. The slopes are mostly angled at 30° or less. A few sections of 40° will be equipped with fixed ropes.
Day 19:Trek to Hushe and drive to Skardu
An early start from Base Camp will enable us to reach Hushe in 3-4 hours where we will meet waiting jeeps for the 5-6 hour drive to Skardu. We can then spend a relaxing afternoon in the garden of the K2 Hotel.
Day 20:Fly from Skardu to Islamabad
Day 21:Spare day in Islamabad/Rawalpindi
A day for sightseeing and shopping in the twin cities of Islamabad (Pakistan's modern Capital) and Rawalpindi (The older city). This day may be required for road travel if the previous day's flight has been cancelled as a result of bad weather.
Day 22:Fly from Islamabad to UK

PLEASE NOTE:The above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. While we will make every effort to adhere to it, changes may be forced for reasons beyond our control. When traveling to remote locations such as this, a flexible approach from all members is much appreciated.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Cathedral Peak: Cathedral Peak altitude profile, 15 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

The 2008 expedition will be led by Neal Short. Neal is one of our most experienced leaders, having led successful Jagged Globe teams on Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam, as well as many other mountains. He is an extremely strong mountaineer with an impressive climbing CV, which includes solos of the Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua and the West Rib of Denali. However, as a school teacher, Neal has a superb ability to relate to team members, whatever their ability and aspirations and to get the most out of them. His record for Jagged Globe of getting mountaineers of all levels of experience to the tops of summits is one of the best. You can read his CV here.

Team Composition

Neal will be supported by a hand picked crew of local guides, sirdars, high altitude porters and cooks. Due to the technical terrain and overall seriousness of the climb, we limit the numbers on our Cathedral Peak expedition.

Experience Required

Cathedral Peak is graded 3B.

Cathedral Peak is a superb climbing opportunity for those wanting to further their mountaineering skills and gain altitude experience.

To join the Cathedral Peak expedition and have a good chance of success, it is preferable that you have:

Cathedral Peak gives a chance to experience technical mountaineering in a Himalayan setting. This is not a frequently climbed 'trekking peak' and this project is therefore subject to the excitement and uncertainties of traditional exploratory mountaineering.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we hold a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. This event will be hosted by a Jagged Globe leader who has recent experience of climbing Cathedral Peak. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike or some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the Cathedral Peak expedition you will need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

International Flights

Most members of our expeditions prefer to fly from London Heathrow Airport. However if suitable flights are available we are able to offer departures from some UK regional airports direct to Pakistan, at no extra cost. Once the flight schedules for 2006 are published we will know if there are suitable flights from Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow. Please contact the Jagged Globe office if you would prefer to fly from one of these airports.

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!