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Expeditions to the 8000 metre Peaks

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Cho Oyu

Altitude 8,201m/26,906ft » Duration 44 Days » Grade 4E

The sixth highest mountain in the world and the most frequently climbed 8,000m peak.

Introduction

This expedition is an excellent opportunity for climbers to extend their experience to extreme altitudes and is highly recommended as a first 8,000m Peak, or as a stepping-stone to an attempt on Everest. The comparative ease of access, lack of objective dangers and generally uncomplicated terrain makes Cho Oyu the most attainable of the world's highest mountains.

Of the thirteen expeditions that we have organised, eleven have put climbers on the summit, making Jagged Globe by far the most experienced and successful British operation on Cho Oyu. In 2007, we were one of the few teams to summit in what was a particularly poor weather season. Strong Sherpas, strong tents, ample supplies above advance base camp, experienced leadership and a tenacious team won the day. However, like all 8,000m Peaks, the climb is a serious undertaking and demands fitness, mountaineering skill and self-sufficiency from those considering it.

We fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa and spend a few days exploring the ancient Tibetan capital, taking time to let our bodies acclimatise, before driving across the Tibetan Plateau to Chinese Base Camp. From here, we load up Yaks and trek to Cho Oyu base camp, below the north west face. The route above base camp consists mainly of low-angled snow slopes up to 30° with one short but very steep section to bypass a sérac barrier at 6,400m. We use three camps on the mountain, the highest at 7,500m is the launch pad for the summit, which is reached in 5 to 8 hours under normal conditions.

Increasingly, some climbers choose to use oxygen on summit day, which we are able to provide if required. Our expeditions include one climbing Sherpas for every two team members and an extremely comfortable and well-stocked base camp.

Leadership

Leaders assigned to our 2008 expedition are Adele Pennington and Tomaz Jakofcic. Adele has a proven high-altitude record and is one of our most successful leaders. She climbed Cho Oyu in 2007 and is on Everest in spring 2008. She is looking forward to returning to Cho Oyu in autumn 2008. Supporting Adele is IFMGA Guide, Tomaz Jakofcic. Tomaz works for Jagged Globe regularly in the Alps and has a proven track record at high altitude, with ascents of Dhaulagiri (8,167m) and alpine-style new routes on Gyachung Kang (7,952 m) and Siguang Ri (7,308m). This core leadership team will be on Everest in spring 2009. 9 May 2008: Our 2008 Cho Oyu expedition is now fully booked and our Everest 2009 has just a few places remaining. Cho Oyu 2009 is also well-subscribed and guaranteed - leaders to be confirmed.

The Team

The team will consist of competent mountaineers, each with enough previous high-altitude and general mountaineering experience to climb an 8,000-metre mountain. This will ensure that team members are suitably prepared, physically and mentally, are technically competent, are reasonably self-sufficient and capable of moving between camps unsupervised, if necessary. It will also enable those team members, who have an interest, to share in the decision-making that affects the team.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a climbing member of an expertly led, fully supported expedition to one of the world's highest mountains, you should join this team.

Support

If you join this team, you will have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership and experienced Sherpas. This will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement. The Leader and any other Assistant Leaders will accompany you throughout the expedition, as you would expect.

Sherpas

The expedition leader will be supported by several hand-picked Sherpas, at a ratio of one Sherpa to every two team members. Our Sherpas have many ascents of 8,000 metre peaks to their credit, including Cho Oyu and Everest, among others. Details of the Sherpas appointed to your team, along with biographies will be posted to the website as team members are confirmed. In preparation of the route and for summit day, the Sherpas will be responsible for all load carrying and for pre-placing all of the camp stores essential for each team member's ascent. This will leave the team members to focus on their own acclimatisation and minimise exertion so that people start summit day least tired and as well prepared physically as possible. In addition to the Leaders, the Sherpas will accompany the team to the top on summit day.

Acclimatisation

it is important for everyone's chances of reaching the top that each team member is well acclimatised, and that this is not prejudiced early on by too rapid an approach to the mountain.

At 3,600 metres, we will notice the altitude immediately on arrival in Lhasa. Even though we would not expect the effects to be too severe, the leader will make sure that everyone feels comfortably acclimatised before moving on. During the drive to base camp, this same principle will apply on each day the team is due to move higher. So, if anyone wants more time to acclimatise, then the leader will ensure this is provided, by either keeping the team in the same location for one more night, or allowing a single team member to remain until such a time as he or she feels better able to move on.

When in Lhasa and again in Xegar, as well as doing the tourist rounds, the expedition leader will organise walks with the aim of "climbing high and sleeping low. " This will provide a sensible pace of acclimatisation for all of the team. We have found that this sets a firm foundation for subsequent acclimatisation and allows all team members to tackle the Cho Oyu climb with greater confidence.

Approximate altitude profile of Cho Oyu: Cho Oyu altitude profile, 12 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Oxygen

Experience has shown that the minimal use of oxygen on summit day increases people's chances of reaching the top, and of returning to the top camp well before dark. We will pre-place oxygen (2 bottles) in the top camp for you to use for an additional £500. We use the latest, most advanced, oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery, such that little oxygen is wasted, and you benefit as best as possible from carrying the additional weight of the cylinder.

Medical

We maintain a supply of oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies. The vehicles used for the drive to base camp also carry oxygen, as this is the most critical phase for acclimatisation.

We supply a comprehensive first aid kit throughout the expedition, and our leaders are trained in its use. There will be a portable hyperbaric chamber with the team during the drive to the road-head and on the walk to base camp, where it will be kept during the climb.

Communications

We provide satellite, hand-held telephones, for use anywhere in Tibet - including the mountain, whether base camp or summit! We provide a broadband data connection by satellite and laptop for Internet access, allowing the collection of emails or for general surfing.

We will provide each team member with a VHF radio for use on the mountain, so that full-time communication is possible between all climbers when operating above base camp

The Drive to the Mountain

Having assembled in Kathmandu, we fly to Lhasa having collected our visas from the Chinese Embassy in Nepal. We spend 2 days/ 3 nights in Tibet's capital, where we have opportunity to visit the most famous landmarks of the city, including the Potala Palace. Once well acclimatised, we embark on the journey to base camp. En route, we will stop off at Shigatse and Xegar, using the most suitable hotels as we go. We will spend 2 nights in Xegar, to aid acclimatisation.

The final stretch of the journey, from Xegar to the end of the road, at Chinese Base camp, takes a few hours but is bumpy. However, the scenery that unfolds as we drive along is fascinating as our land-cruisers climb up and over ancient moraines and then descend to the road's end. It is here at 4,900m, with our first good view of Cho Oyu, that the Chinese liaison offices have their base for the climb (known as Chinese Base Camp.)

The trail from here to the real base camp follows an ancient trade route between Tibet and Nepal. This is still in frequent use, most notably by Tibetans who use it to carry goods into Nepal for sale at Namche Bazaar and other markets in the Solu Khumbu. The route crosses into Nepal from Tibet at a pass known as the Nangpa La.

The Walk to Base Camp

In the late afternoon after our arrival at the road-head, the yaks that will carry our expedition to base camp arrive in a clamour of bells, shouts and whistles. The next morning, while the Sirdar and yak drivers argue over the loads (the traditional process!), we begin the long but gentle amble towards the mountain (8 hours). Initially, the yak trail leads along the flat valley floor. Just before the terminal moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier, we cross the icy waters of the melt stream that spouts from the tongue of the glacier. The trail then rises steadily to our camp on a grassy bench high above the east bank of the glacier, at 5,200m. This is one of 2 intermediate camps on the way to our own base camp location.

The following day begins with a descent to the Balung Glacier. After a short climb, the trail contours through talus towards the Nangpa La with the peak Jobo Rabzang rising on our right. After 5 hours, we reach Dzaporoa at 5,450m. This camp provides excellent and easy access to the glacier and to ice cliffs suitable for training. These are located immediately opposite the camp. We spend at least one full day during the early part of the expedition familiarising ourselves with and revising the techniques that we will need to use higher on the mountain. In particular, we will practice the use of crampons and ice axe, using fixed ropes in ascent, climbing steep ice and descending fixed ropes including abseiling.

Once, we are feeling well acclimatised and we have made full use of the ice climbing and training opportunities afforded by our stay at Dzaporoa, we make our move up to base camp itself. Leaving Dzaporoa, we follow the crest of the moraine that turns east towards the great north-west face of Cho Oyu. We reach base camp after about 2 hours. Here, at 5,650m, we are almost level with the Nangpa La and it may be possible to see lines of traders and families of refugees crossing the pass into Nepal.

The Climb

Our first foray out from base camp takes us along the glacier towards the mountain and camp 1. Because of the altitude, this first sortie up the Gyabrag Glacier and onto the mountain itself is essentially tentative and one of familiarisation. However, it provides an excellent opportunity to get a good view of the route and for everyone, including the expedition leader to assess the conditions on the mountain.

Once the expedition leader is happy with the team's acclimatisation and weather permitting, we begin to climb the mountain in earnest. In order to reach a position from which we can make successful summit bids, the Sherpas will make sure that all camp stores and food are in the right place on the mountain at the right time. The leader will make sure that everyone is fit and well acclimatised.

Throughout the climb, the leader will adopt a programme that exposes the team members to ever increasing altitudes. This will be achieved by "climbing high and sleeping low" until each person feels suitably well adjusted to make the next move up to a higher camp. From each successive camp, the team will then climb high once more, before returning to the lower camp to sleep. Finally, each team member will go back down to base camp for a prolonged rest of at least 4 days before moving up to occupy camp 3 in readiness for the ultimate climb to the top. Camps on the mountain are located at:

Camp 1 - 6,400 metres
Camp 2 - 7,000 metres
Camp 3 - 7,400 metres

Camp 1 is at 6,400 metres and 5 to 8 hours from base camp. The camp is reached by a stiff climb from the head of the glacier at 6,100m. From here, the route follows steep scree, which improves as height is gained. Camp 1 is sited on a broad shoulder of snow, which leads up to a ridge above the camp.

Above camp 1, a snow ridge leads easily to a series of ice cliffs. The way through these involves climbing a steep 50m ice wall at over 6,600m. Although straightforward, this is the hardest climbing on the route as it involves a huge effort to climb steep ice at such an altitude. Improved acclimatisation and greater familiarity makes the prospect of subsequent climbs through the ice cliffs less daunting but the challenge remains physically tough each time we make the journey to camp 2. Throughout this section, fixed ropes are placed in conjunction with the other teams operating on the mountain at the same time. Above the ice cliffs, there are several large crevasses which we make our way around until they finally give way and we reach the site of camp 2 at 7,000m. Depending upon the snow conditions, this can be a very demanding day of 6 to 8 hours.

Camp 3 is at 7,400m and about 4 hours above camp 2. The top camp is located beneath a rock band that cuts the snow slopes of the upper basin. Looking south as we rise above the beautiful Nangpa Gosum peaks, we can see the peaks of Nepal and, to the north, the brown and yellow earth colours of the arid Tibetan plateau. Though the distance to camp 3 is short and the way easy, the altitude makes big demands of everyone.

Once in camp 3, we must make every effort to prepare for the following day. This means drinking, eating and resting. In order to function effectively on summit day, it is vital to drink as much as possible and this involves a big effort since the altitude makes the easiest physical work very demanding and the task of boiling water slower than usual. However, we must resist the temptation to relent and to relax as drinking and eating, in order to replenish the calories and fluids lost during the climb so far, is the highest priority if we are to be successful in our ambition of climbing Cho Oyu.

Summit day begins early as it takes several hours to make breakfast, to drink adequately and to get fully equipped before leaving the tent. Being west facing the sun hits the camp late so there is no rush to leave until shortly before first light. Once on our way, easy snow and rock ledges lead through the short rock band above the camp. Gradually the angle of the slope relents until we emerge onto the broad windswept back of the mountain. Now it is only a matter of putting one foot in front of the other to slowly gain the distant summit where Everest is the only summit visibly higher. It is not the only mountain to be seen, however, and the magnificent vista as we cross the vast summit plateau towards our high point includes Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Menlugtse, Gyachung Kang and Gaurisankar, as well as all the peaks of the Khumbu Himal. We reach the summit 5 to 8 hours after leaving camp 3.

Descent is by the same route, with nights spent at camp 3, and camp 1.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London Heathrow to Kathmandu.
We fly to Kathmandu on Qatar Airlines via Doha.
Day 2:Arrive in Kathmandu.
We are met at the airport and taken to the Summit Hotel. This is an excellent hotel positioned well away from the bustle of the city centre and its friendly staff do their best to make you feel at home. It has extensive gardens and a swimming pool. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day.
Day 3:At leisure in Kathmandu.
There will be time for us to explore the bazaars, shops and monasteries of this fascinating city. The expedition leader will also examine everyone's climbing equipment so that any shortfalls can be purchased in Kathmandu prior to flying to Tibet. Chinese Visas allowing entry to Tibet will also be issued by the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.
Day 4:Fly to Lhasa.
If the weather is clear the flight will give extraordinary views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchenjunga. We should also get a good view from the air of the Kangshung valley. On arrival in Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel close to the city centre. This will be our base for the next few days while we acclimatise to the high altitude of the Tibetan plateau (Lhasa is one of the highest capitals in the world at 3,600m/12,000ft).
Day 5-6:At leisure in Lhasa.
While acclimatising, we will make the most of our time in Lhasa and visit the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's summer palace and perhaps one or two monasteries outside the city. Lhasa is a fascinating place, the indigenous Tibetan people and architecture contrasting strongly with the imposed Chinese influence.
Day 7:Drive to Shigatse (6 hours).
We set off in land-cruisers across the Tibetan plateau. Soon after leaving Lhasa, we reach the banks of the Tsang Po, which becomes the Brahmaputra River when it enters India. We drive up-stream for a while before turning southwest through barren desert-like valleys to reach Shigatse, Tibet's second city. Overnight in a hotel. Altitude: 3,900m.
Day 8:Drive to Xegar (8 hours).
As we continue along the Tibetan highway, the northern edge of the Greater Himalaya comes into view, often providing a spectacular panorama of peaks, including Everest. We overnight in a hotel 7 kilometres outside the main town of Xegar. If there is time, we may be able to visit the main town and its hilltop monastery. Altitude: 4,000m.
Day 9:Acclimatisation Day.
This is an important day which will help us cope with the big height gain to Chinese base camp tomorrow. The general advice is to take it easy, but a visit of the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery (4,200m) are highly recommended.
Day 10:Arrive Chinese base camp.
We complete the drive to the road-head and to the Chinese base camp. Leaving Xegar, we turn south along the bumpy track that leads to the road-head below Cho Oyu.
Day 11:Organisation at Chinese base camp
This will be an important day in order to sort out all loads for the yak carry. In the afternoon, our yaks arrive ready to make the carry on the first leg to base camp tomorrow.
Day 12-15:Trek to Cho Oyu base camp.
With yaks carrying the expedition's supplies, we trek up the long valley to base camp. We spend 3 nights at intermediate camps at 5,200 and 5,450 metres before continuing to base camp. The benefit of our acclimatisation camp will be much appreciated when we finally occupy base camp, our home for the duration of the climb. We move into base camp early on day 15 and spend the afternoon organising climbing equipment for use on the mountain.
Day 16-40:Climbing the north-west face of Cho Oyu.
On the first day, we make our initial, tentative excursion and exploration of the lower part of the mountain. The aim will be to get as high as possible in order to have a good look at the route and the conditions on the mountain. We do not carry loads and we aim to return to base camp for the evening.

As we gain in strength and acclimatisation, we climb higher on the mountain with the aim of reaching and sleeping at both camp 1 and camp 2. This will give us ideal preparation for the final part of the climb. The summit bids follow a good period of rest at base camp during which time the Sherpas complete the task of establishing the high camp at 7,400 metres.

On day 40, all climbers should be back at base camp with the mountain stripped of equipment. Packing-up base camp is always time consuming and everyone will need to help to ensure that we leave no trace of our passing.

If we are successful in climbing the mountain early then we will leave base camp early. We can head back to Kathmandu as soon as everyone has made a determined summit climb but past experience has shown that we will need all of the days allotted unless the conditions on the mountain are exceptionally good and everyone acclimatises exceptionally well.

Day 41:Return trek to road-head.
We will make the return trek to the road-head with yaks carrying our equipment. Our road transport will be waiting for us. We spend our last night in tents.
Day 42:Drive into Nepal.
Although with a good road and no snow blocking the passes, it is possible to drive to Kathmandu in 12 to 14 hours, we have planned on 2 days in case of delays. On the first day we will aim to drive to Zhangmu and possible cross the border into Nepal. If we make the drive all the way to Kathmandu, we will arrive there at about 8 p.m.
Day 43:Arrive at Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.
We complete the drive to Kathmandu. We return to the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel, with its peaceful gardens, cool swimming pool, welcoming rooms and inviting bar. In the evening, we have our farewell celebration and expedition dinner for which the hotel bar is kept well stocked!
Day 44:At leisure in Kathmandu at the Summit Hotel.
A final chance to buy souvenirs or perhaps just to relax by the pool, before our evening flight from Kathmandu
Day 45:Arrive home
Those travelling back to the UK will arrive at London Heathrow mid-morning.

PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

The Conduct of the Climb

Although many people have now climbed Cho Oyu, the mountain and its potential dangers deserve respect by all those attempting it - it remains a dangerous undertaking.

Reaching the summit late in the day would be a serious mistake and our leader will ensure that sensible timings are adhered to. The aim of our expedition will be to get as many team members as possible to the summit. However, this will not be to the detriment of safety. Safety will govern all decisions made on the mountain and will be based on the sound and highly experienced judgement of our leader. To support our leader on the mountain, we at Jagged Globe will plan the expedition as thoroughly and carefully as possible using our own experience and knowledge of the mountain to maximum benefit. Ultimately, the leader will have sole discretion on the implementation of any plan to climb the mountain and he will ensure that safety remains the prime consideration. However, absolute safety cannot be provided, and you must be prepared to accept this if you are to take part.

The high mountains of the Himalaya, and Cho Oyu in particular, are there for us to climb and to enjoy. Our priority will be to enable all team members to fulfil their potential on the mountain and to come home safely having had a life enhancing experience. Whether or not expedition members reach the top, the expedition should be an enjoyable and rewarding achievement that will form the basis of many long cherished memories and friendships.

Experience Required

Cho Oyu is graded 4E meaning the expedition is suitable for experienced, self- sufficient mountaineers.

To join us on Cho Oyu, you should have completed Alpine climbs equivalent to AD and have prior altitude experience of around 6,000m. Climbers who have achieved ascents of mountains such as Huascaran, Illimani, Denali, Muztag Ata, Spantik or similar, could well consider Cho Oyu.

All team members need to be in excellent physical condition if they are to have a realistic chance of staying strong right up to the summit. Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough test of endurance; both physical and psychological, so you need to make sure that you are prepared for the effort required to sustain the duration of the expedition. Advice on physical preparation for the expedition is given in the expedition dossier, which is posted to you on receipt of your booking deposit.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to meet other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel are brought from the UK. Climbers need to provide their own personal equipment, including:

We can provide assistance with obtaining equipment not normally stocked by retail outlets. Some items of equipment are available for hire from us but, for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you purchase your own personal equipment and test it before departure.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £800 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!