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Expeditions to the Seven Summits

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Denali West Rib

Altitude 6,194m/20,320ft » Duration 27 Days » Grade 4D

A direct route to the top of Denali for experienced mountaineers

Introduction

Denali is the highest mountain in North America. The original name of Mount McKinley, Denali or 'The High One' is once again in common usage in Alaska. Denali is situated 150 miles (250km) to the north of Anchorage in the Alaska Range, close to the Arctic Circle. It rises dramatically above the tundra of the National Park, dwarfing the surrounding peaks into insignificance.

Despite its fearsome and well-justified reputation for bad weather, the mountain draws climbers from all over the world. Several hundred people attempt the climb each year, attracted by its status as one of the 'Seven Summits', its accessibility and the relatively low technical demands of the West Buttress Route. However, it is wise not to underestimate the undertaking, as Denali is a very big mountain, offering an experience more akin to the larger Himalayan giants. Dealing with the commitment, physical endurance, altitude and Arctic cold and storm provides an incredible challenge.

The West Rib

The West Rib is the name given to the prominent spur, which marks the western end of Denali's southern flanks. It provides a superb and very direct route to the summit, and is climbed by guided groups each year. This is a real mountaineering route, with constant steepness and exposure. As such, it is a very different and considerably more challenging undertaking than the normal West Buttress Route. Climbers considering this route should be technically competent ice climbers and be both physically and psychologically prepared for a long climb in hard conditions. For experienced mountaineers, the West Rib provides an outstanding climbing adventure of Himalayan proportions.

The climbing is objectively safe and never very steep, but the initial couloir does contain a long 55 degree ice-slope. The rib above gives exhilarating climbing up to a large shelf about half way up the route. Easier snow slopes eventually steepen to gain the upper crest of the rib, which can be climbed on rock up the very crest or on snow and ice to the side. The rib culminates at the summit plateau, which is crossed to gain the final slope and ridge to the top.

The West Rib is approached from the 8,000ft camp on the normal West Buttress Route. From here we follow the North East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, passing between very steep cliffs on either side. This is objectively the most serious part of the climb and movement is usually made during the night, which because of the latitude is almost like daytime. An impressive icefall then leads to the foot of the West Rib's initial couloir.

We climb the West Rib in classic style, using camps, carrying loads and placing fixed ropes. A long time is spent on the climb, so we get to know the mountain well. An added bonus is that far fewer people climb this route than the normal West Buttress, so this very popular mountain still feels strikingly remote. Even so, the level of commitment required is not so great, as the upper part of the climb is escapable to the "Basin" camp on the West Buttress Route. After the climb, we descend by the same route, retrieving equipment as we go.

Expedition Itinerary

The following itinerary is a general description of how we expect the trip to progress. Please understand that once we begin, prevailing conditions and the strength of the team may dictate a different schedule.

Day 1:Fly London to Anchorage.
As Anchorage is 9 hours behind GMT, this very long flight is completed in a day. You will arrive at Anchorage in the late evening and overnight in our Guesthouse, a comfortable base for the next two nights.
Day 2:Preparations.
After a morning at leisure, your mountain guides who will brief you on the expedition will meet you at the guesthouse. This will include an equipment check and perhaps a visit to AMH, an excellent climbing equipment shop, which offers a discount to Jagged Globe groups. There will be time in the evening to sample some of Anchorage's lively bars and clubs.
Day 3:Drive to Talkeetna.
You will be collected from the guesthouse in the morning and taken to Talkeetna, a three-hour drive to the north. A visit to the Denali National Park Service Centre includes another interesting briefing although you will have to part with $210 in cash or with a credit card for the National Park fee (this is not included in the cost of the expedition). You will then fly to Kahiltna airstrip at the earliest opportunity. This could mean flying directly out today, or waiting several days in Talkeetna if the weather is very bad. On average, groups spend one night in Talkeetna prior to flying to the glacier.
Day 4:Fly to Kahiltna Airstrip.
Only 4-seater aircraft are able to fly on to the Kahiltna Glacier, so it takes several flights to get the entire team to Kahiltna airstrip. This is a wonderful flight, taking off from the Alaskan plain and flying over forest and tundra and on up to the mountains. This is the first time you will be able to appreciate the awesome scale of the Alaska Range, as you fly past mountainsides only a few wingspans away, until breaking through to the vast Kahiltna Glacier. If it is clear, you will have your first good views of Denali. After landing, the team will carry and pull loads up to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and set up Camp 1 at 8,000ft (2,450m).
Day 5-6:Carry loads and move camp to "Safe Camp" in the NE Fork at 9,000ft (2,750m).
Day 7-8:Carry loads and move camp through the icefall to the foot of the couloir at c11,000ft (3,350m).
Day 9-10:Fix ropes half way up the couloir and move loads to the end of the ropes, at around 12,000ft (3,650m).
Day 11:Climb to the end of the ropes with all camping equipment and swing ropes to the top of the couloir to reach the rib itself at Wishbone Camp 12,500ft (3,800m) - a long day!
Day 12:Return to the bottom of the lines and bring up all remaining food and equipment to Wishbone Camp.
Day 13:Fix lines on the Snow Dome (the bottom of the rib) to about 13,200ft (4,000m) and carry supplies to 14,700ft (4,500m). Return to camp.
Day 14:Move camp to "Crevasse Camp" at 14,700ft. Spectacular!
Day 15:Carry loads to the next campsite at 16,300ft (4,950m). Fixed lines may be used, depending on conditions. Beautiful views and lots of exposure.
Day 16:The final load carry to "Summit Camp" at 16,300ft. This is a very spectacular and exposed site, we spend a lot of time building a fortress! Here we will wait for a suitably calm day to go for the summit.
Day 17-23:Summit Day
. When the weather is good, we go for the top. This will be a very long tiring day, but at least the rucksacks will be comparatively light, containing only emergency gear. Long slopes of deep snow usually lead to the summit plateau, then the final short ridge to the top. Descend back to Summit Camp.

The Descent.
From Summit Camp, the descent is quick and quite straightforward. Snow slopes lead down, on the true right side if the rib directly to "The Basin" camp at 14,300ft (4,300m). Then we follow the busy West Buttress Route all the way back to the NE Fork and on the Kahiltna base camp. The descent usually takes 3 days from Summit Camp.

Day 24:The team will endeavour to be back at Kahiltna today in order to fly as soon as possible to Talkeetna.
Day 25:Drive to Anchorage. Overnight at own expense.
Day 26:An early morning start for the flight back to London.
Day 27:Arrive London mid-morning.

PLEASE NOTE:This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Any schedule for climbing Denali is extremely weather sensitive and inevitably the weather will force changes to be made. Whatever the weather conditions, the expedition guides will arrange the itinerary to maximise the chances of success without prejudicing safety.

Occasionally, teams take longer to climb Denali than expected, which may result in flying back at a later date. Members are advised to inform relatives and employers of this possibility to avoid undue alarm should this occur. Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Meals

We provide all tents and cooking facilities on the mountain. The guides prepare all the meals, which are taken in a mess-tent, which provides a social focus. Lunches are snack meals usually taken while on the move.

Load Hauling

From Base Camp to 14,300 feet you will use a sled and your pack to move all food and equipment. Heavy loads are a reality on Denali. Be prepared to carry loads up to 30 kilos (65 pounds) and more. Train for this! On the West Rib climb there will be more consecutive days of heavy packs, making this trip more demanding.

Flights

For all routes on the mountain, if the weather is good and you make the ascent of Denali early, the return flight to Talkeetna will be arranged early. It may be possible to bring your flight to the UK forward or you will have to spend more time in either Talkeetna or Anchorage to wait for your flight home. On the other hand, there may be a delay in climbing Denali or with the return flight to Talkeetna. If you miss your pre-booked flight due to delay, the airline will fly you home on the next flight on which it has available seats. This may mean a delay in Anchorage of several days until flights become available. If it is necessary to change your flight date or time, the airline may make a charge.

Team Composition

The West Rib team will be led by 2 Alaskan guides, at least one of whom will have climbed the West Rib before. A maximum of 4 places is available on the dates given, although the climb will go ahead, with 2 guides, even if there are only 3 clients. As porterage is not a viable option in Alaska, all members will need to participate fully in load carrying.

Experience Required

Denali West Rib by The West Rib route is graded 4D.

The West Rib is a climbing route requiring a high degree of commitment. Climbers must be experienced on steep snow and ice and be able to climb with a heavy pack (up to 30kgs). It is also necessary for climbers to be fully conversant with rope-work and belaying.

Climbers wishing to join the expedition and have a good chance of success must be able to:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. For the 2009 season, Jagged Globe Marketing Director, Tom Briggs will attend the Denali Pre-Expedition Meeting. Tom climbed the West Buttress in 2008 and will be on hand to answer any questions you have about the expedition. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Denali West Rib, you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

The following items are included in the price payable to Jagged Globe:

What the price does not include

Not including in the cost are the following:

When you plan your budget, it is recommended that you bring an additional US$300 to US$400. This will go towards your taxi between the airport and the guesthouse in Anchorage and the meals in Anchorage and Talkeetna.

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £600 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!