banner photo

Expeditions to South America

0845 345 8848
climb@jagged-globe.co.uk

Ecuador Volcanoes

Altitude 5,897m/19,346ft » Duration 20 Days » Grade 2A

Skills training and ascents of the equatorial summits of Iliniza North, Cayambe and Cotopaxi

Introduction

Ecuador's volcanoes are well known amongst climbers, with the world's highest active volcano, Cotopaxi, being a much sought after prize. Our mountaineering programme in Ecuador has evolved over the last decade, and now combines a technical training course with ascents of three major peaks.

After a tour of Quito, we make some important acclimatisation treks nearby on scenic hills before the first major mountain, Illiniza North. At 5,216m its ascent is an important part of our acclimatisation and involves easy scrambling sections on the volcano. Then we base ourselves at an excellent hut on Cayambe (5,790m) for a course in alpine climbing skills, including ice axe and crampon use and ropework for glacial travel. On the third day, we put these skills into practice on the intricate maze of crevasses, which we must weave round to reach Cayambe's summit - the third highest in Ecuador. Finally, after this careful preparation, we are ready for Cotopaxi (5,897m). This is the steepest mountain we attempt with an interesting route among ice flutings leading to the spectacular snowbound crater rim.

The mountains in Ecuador are easily accessible and huts provide convenient accommodation at the foot of each climb. Between climbs, we stay in some comfortable haciendas. Participants do not need any previous mountaineering experience to join. Those who have climbed before can refresh and improve their skills on Cayambe and have the opportunity to extend their stay by 3 days and attempt Chimborazo

The Volcanoes

During the expedition, we climb 5 volcanoes. The first two objectives provide good acclimatisation before we move on to Cayambe for a two-day alpine skills training programme, culminating in an ascent of this popular peak. Cayambe provides the team members with the skills, fitness and degree of acclimatisation necessary for success on Cotopaxi, the world's highest active volcano. The expedition's 5 objectives, in order of ascent, are:

Pasochoa- 4,200m (13,776ft)
Pichincha- 4,787m (15,701ft)
Iliniza North- 5,216m (17,108ft)
Cayambe- 5,790m (18,991ft)
Cotopaxi- 5,897m (19,346ft)

The first 2 climbs are straightforward walks. Cayambe offers a good warm up ascent on snow whilst Cotopaxi offers the steepest climbing of the three.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Quito
Day 2:Arrive Quito
On arrival in Quito we transfer to our hotel for breakfast and a chance to catch up on lost sleep whilst our bodies adjust to the new time zone. Quito is at an altitude of 2,850m, so you may feel a little breathless for the first day or two. Once rested, we visit the Equatorial Monument close to the city, as well as the Guapulo Monastery built by the Spanish in 1623.
Day 3:Acclimatisation & City Tour
Whilst we acclimatise further, we have a half-day tour of the city. We have the afternoon at leisure to relax or, alternatively, you may elect to recommence the exploration of this fascinating city by yourself or with other members of the team. This may take you to the old quarter or to the more modern shopping areas in search of something unique to take home. In the evening, our Ecuadorian Guide gives a presentation on climbing in the Andes.
Day 4:Ascent of Pasochoa (4,200m)
Having had a day to begin the acclimatisation process in Quito, we now drive out to the countryside and further acclimatise with an ascent of the straightforward Pasochoa. Perhaps the real reason for this excursion is that Pasochoa is one of the few volcanoes where we can still see Condors flying - the largest flying birds in the world. We return and spend the night in Quito.
Day 5:Walk to Rucu Pichincha (4,700m)
We make a very short drive to the western side of the city towards the slopes of Rucu Pichincha to catch the teleferique. This unique and fascinating experience takes us up to 4,050 metres in just only 10 minutes! Panoramic cabins that ascend 2.5Km hanging over the slopes of the Pichincha volcano, take us to the top of Cruz Loma. This is a great place to get some good views of our main climbing objectives of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. From there we can also enjoy spectacular views of the Quito. From Cruz Loma we hike to the summit of Rucu Pichincha. This is quite an arduous walk and takes 3 to 4 hours for the round trip.
Day 6:Iliniza - hike to La Virgen Camp (4,000m)
Today we drive to the village of El Chaupi, located in the foothills of Iliniza and hike up to the entrance of the recently created Iliniza Ecological Reserve. From here, we head towards our base camp, hiking through several fields to the Hacienda el Refugio. This is the first night that we sleep at high altitude and so plays a very important role in our acclimatisation process.
Day 7:Iliniza North Summit Day (5,126m)
Iliniza is located about 55Km southwest of Quito. Originally, the North and South peaks were a single volcanic cone that, long ago, exploded and split in half! The two peaks stand 2Km apart, separated by a saddle. The ascent of Iliniza South is a difficult and icy climb. Fifty years ago Iliniza North also had a glacier, but now, with the ice melted, its ascent is rocky and much less difficult. There is still however, a significant gain in altitude. Our route from the west has some easy scrambling below the top. From the summit, there are spectacular views of Iliniza South, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo. After the climb, we return to our camp where we spend a second night.
Day 8:Rest day at local Hacienda
A rest day after the acclimatisation hikes. We drive along the Pan American Highway to the north and spend the night in a countryside farmhouse, which has been converted into a hotel. In the afternoon, we can visit the town of Machachi and its colourful market. Internet access is available in Machachi.
Day 9:Drive to Cayambe Region
We continue north towards Hacienda Guachala, an old colonial Spanish farm, to get closer to our next climbing objective, Cayambe. On the way we stop at the Hot Springs of Ilalo. We spend the night at the Hacienda before moving on to Cayambe the following day.
Day 10-11:Alpine Skills Training on Cayambe
Cayambe is the only glacier in the world that straddles the Equator, providing a very rare occurrence on the ground, of zero latitude combined with temperatures below zero centigrade. Because of its easterly position and proximity to the Amazon basin, Cayambe receives heavy precipitation and has an impressive glacier ice cap. We spend two days on the mountain, based at the excellent hut, which is situated at 4,600m. We provide team members with a thorough alpine skills training programme, which includes snow and ice climbing techniques and roped glacier travel. We have introduced this training session on Cayambe as a means of helping you to prepare more effectively and increasing the chance of your success on Cotopaxi. The two days also provide essential acclimatisation.

Members who are already proficient with an ice axe and crampons have the opportunity to extend their skills and experience, under the expert tuition of our highly qualified Ecuadorian Guides.

Day 12:Ascent of Cayambe (5,790m)
We get up very early this morning and prepare for our ascent of Cayambe, Ecuador's third highest volcano. The climb to the summit follows moderate to heavily crevassed slopes northwards past the occasional rocky outcrop, before turning east and climbing a tricky bergschrund to the summit. From the summit, we should be able to see Cotopaxi to the south, if the weather is clear. We descend back to Guachala (2,900m) for the night.
Day 13:Drive to Cotopaxi park
Today is designed as a rest day after the climbing of Cayambe. However, it is not a redundant day, as we drive to the Cotopaxi National Park. On the way there will be the chance to stop at a local supermarket. We spend the night in very pleasant lodge below the northern slopes of the mountain (at about 3,700m).
Day 14:Cotopaxi hut and glacier training
We leave at about 08:30 and drive to 4,600 metres, from where we walk to the glacier. Here, we continue our training on the glaciers that descend the north-eastern flank of Cotopaxi, in readiness for the ascent the following day. We spend the night at the hut 4,800m.
Day 15-16:Ascent of Cotopaxi (5,897m)
We make as early a start as possible, relying on stable weather normally associated with the mountain. If however, the weather is poor, we have the flexibility to delay for 24 hours, giving us an excellent chance of making an ascent.

We leave the hut at around 1 a.m. and climb to the top of the triangular scree slope directly above. A route, well marked with footprints and wands, is followed up the large featureless glacier, weaving between large, open crevasses. After passing below a large black rock, we cut back left up a steep section to reach the ice encrusted crater rim. The summit lies a little further along the crater rim to the right. Ropes are used throughout the climb to protect the team from hidden crevasses and protect the steeper sections. Cotopaxi's crater is a spectacular feature and the mix of ice and steam vents make an unusual combination.

Day 17:Hot Springs of Baños or Quilotoa Crater Lake
Depending on the advice of the British Foreign Office (FO) with regards to the activity of the Tungurahua Volcano, the team may visit the town of Baños (hot springs) located at 1,800m. If this visit is not possible, we drive to the Quilotoa Crater lake region. Depending on the day of the week, we may also visit one of the small indigenous markets of the Cotopaxi province on the way. We overnight in a comfortable lodge.
Day 18:Return to Quito
We drive back North towards Quito. In the afternoon, there is a chance to do some last minute shopping in Quito. In the evening the team meets for a farewell meal in one of the nice restaurants of the city.
Day 19:Depart from Quito to UK
In the morning, we are taken to the airport for our return flight to London.
Day 20:Arrive UK.

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Extensions

Antisana Extension
Due to Chimborazo currently being out of condition, we are offering an extension to climb Antisana, a superb peak, which Jagged Globe teams have climbed as part of a two-week expedition on four previous occasions. This trip will be 2 days longer than the standard 20-day Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary. The cost is just £550.

Typical Programme:

Day 18:Drive in 4 X 4 Jeep and hike to base camp on the western slopes of Antisana.
The rest of the team on the standard Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary will return to Quito today.
Day 19:Ascent of Antisana (5,704m)
Antisana is a spectacular looking mountain of very large and active glaciers, making it the greatest equatorial snow and ice mass in the world. The broad summit has four distinct peaks, which make up the crater rim. Despite its impressive appearance, Antisana is rarely attempted, as there is no straightforward route up the mountain. Jagged Globe has considerable experience of the mountain, having either climbed or attempted it every year since 2003.

From base camp, we decide on our specific route, taking into consideration various factors such as snow quality, crevasse patterns and weather conditions currently affecting the complex glaciated terrain, which flank all aspects of the peak. Our climbing route will necessitate a full range of snow and ice climbing techniques as the terrain will involve moderately angled snow slopes and short steeper sections of ice. The views from the summit are spectacular, in particular the north face of Cotopaxi, which is rarely seen and part of the Amazon basin. With a big feel and covered in crevasses, Antisana is pretty wild and has some of the most interesting climbing in Ecuador. If you are looking for a real climbing adventure, this is it!

Day 20:Spare summit day
After the climb, it is a 4-5 hour drive back to Quito.
Day 21:Depart from Quito to UK
In the morning, we are taken to the airport for our return flight to London, via Amsterdam.
Day 22:Arrive UK
We arrive back in UK by mid-morning, depending on connecting flights from Amsterdam to UK regional airports.

Chimborazo Extension
16 January 2008: This extension is suspended due to the current activity on nearby Tungurahua volcano, which is spewing hot ash onto Chimborazo, making it icy and unsafe to climb. Please contact us on 0845 345 8848 if you were considering booking this extension. We can arrange an ascent of Antisana as an alternative (see above).

Suitably experienced team members who wish to stay on in Ecuador for an extra two days can do so and attempt to climb the country's highest mountain, Chimborazo (6,310m). We grade this climb 3B. For this ascent, you need:

In recent years, the standard route on Chimborazo has frequently been out of condition. When there is little snow fall and the route is icy, it is very difficult for the leader to protect team members and a slip on the hard ice in the wrong place could easily be fatal. Because of this, we have developed a new route to the summit of Chimborazo for 2008. It is logistically more difficult to approach, but when the standard route is very icy, it provides a more realistic alternative. The standard routes is guided at a 1:1 ratio and this new route at a 1:2 ratio. The costs of both routes are £550 per person (there are higher logistical costs associated with the new route). When considering your climb of Chimborazo, please consider that Jagged Globe's Ecuadorian mountain guides are undoubtedly the most experienced on the mountain and have taken the initiative of developing this new route. They are not 'trekking guides', but experienced mountaineers, whose skill and judgement we rely upon to make sound mountaineering decisions on a serious climbing objective such as Chimborazo.

Please indicate on your booking form if you wish to book this extension and you will be invoiced accordingly. Here is a typical programme for the 'standard' route on Chimborazo:

Day 18:Drive to Carrel Hut, hike to Whymper Hut
We travel from Quito by road to Chimborazo and approach the Carrell Hut at 4,800m on the western slopes, before continuing to the Whymper Hut at 5,000m.
Day 19-20:Ascent of Chimborazo (6,310m)
We set aside 2 days for the ascent of the highest mountain in Ecuador, although the ascent is usually made on the first day, given stable weather.

We make another very early start and climb a scree slope to a huge snow ramp, which is followed to the main glacier. This section is crevassed and we need to be roped-up, however, the climbing is reasonably angled. The snowfield to the summit is usually marked with flags and footsteps, as this is a popular route. First, we reach Veintimilla Peak from where it is nearly a kilometre across a snow basin to the main summit. This section is hard work in the hot sun, which is the main reason why we leave the hut very early in the morning. The ascent to the main summit takes 8 to 10 hours and about 4 hours for the descent back to the hut. In the afternoon we return back to Quito.

Day 21:Depart from Quito to UK
In the morning, we are taken to the airport for our return flight to London, via Amsterdam.
Day 22:Arrive UK
We arrive back in UK by mid-morning, depending on connecting flights from Amsterdam to UK regional airports.

Galapagos Extension
We regularly organise cruises to the Galapagos Islands for either 4 or 8 additional days. Please contact us for details of this tailor-made service.

Leadership

Our Ecuador Volcanoes programme is managed by our chief Ecuadorian Guide, Javier Herrera. Together with North America, Ecuador is the only other country where we do not send leaders from the UK. The reason for this is simple. The professional guides we use in Ecuador are highly trained mountaineers, whose skills are on a par with leaders trained in the west. They regularly work on other mountains in the world, which extends their mountaineering experience beyond Ecuador. For example, our Ecuadorian Guides have worked in Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Antarctica. They have an intimate knowledge of the mountains in the itinerary and are experts in the local culture and customs of the country. However, we must point out that they are mountain guides and not trekking guides wearing crampons. Other companies who organise trips to Cotopaxi and even Chimborazo employ trek leaders who have little experience of mountaineering. In short, we believe that our expeditions led by the very best Ecuadorian mountain leaders available.

Team Composition

Our English-speaking Ecuadorian guides provide a guiding ratio of one guide to three climbers on Cotopaxi.

Experience Required

Ecuador Volcanoes is graded 2A.

The Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary includes two days of alpine skills training on Cayambe in the early stages of the expedition. The expedition is designed as an opportunity for those with little or no previous mountaineering experience to learn some climbing skills and summit a significant peak.

To have a good chance of success on the volcanoes, you need:

Our Introductory Winter Mountaineering course in Scotland and our Alpine Introduction course in the Alps also provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Ecuador you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!