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Expeditions to the Seven Summits

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Elbrus

Altitude 5,642m/18,510ft » Duration 16 Days » Grade 2A

A climb to the true summit of Europe's highest mountain

Introduction

The Caucasus Mountains stretch for 550 miles (880 kilometres), from the Black Sea to the Caspian. They form the physical barrier dividing Europe and Asia, although the whole range lies entirely within the former Soviet Union. On the south (Asian) side are the states of Georgia and Azerbyjan and on the north (European) side lie several other republics, including the Bolshoi states of Northern Ossetia and Kabardino Balkar.

The highest and most glaciated part of the Caucasus is the central region, which includes Mount Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe. The snowline is higher than in the Alps and the flavour of the climbing is a cross between Alpine and Himalayan. The higher altitudes are extensively glaciated, although the general configuration of the range is less complex than the Alps.

Mount Elbrus was first climbed by the British party Moore, Gardiner, Grove and Walker in 1874. This was during a fairly intensive period of exploration spearheaded by the British (with their Alpine Guides!) and later followed by Hungarians, Italians, Germans and Austrians. Since then, the Soviets have understandably dominated Caucasian mountaineering, where their finest climbers have cut their teeth before achieving amazing feats in the Himalaya.

Elbrus is a popular mountain, being a straightforward glacier climb. The main hazards are the high altitude (which we prepare for as fully as possible, with training climbs and walks in the Baksan valley), and poor weather, for which we have built in a spare day to give more flexibility. Climbers will need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice axe, although ski poles will be generally more useful than an ice axe.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London - Moscow on British Airways.
We will be met at the airport and taken to a good hotel in the city centre.
Day 2:In Moscow.
We will explore the cultural attractions of Moscow such as the Kremlin, Red Square, Lenin's Mausoleum and Arbat Street with the assistance of an English speaking Russian guide.
Day 3:Fly to Mineralny Vody.
We make an early start and fly to Mineralny Vody, just north of the Caucasus mountain range. We should have good views of the twin peaks of Elbrus before landing. A private bus will then take us to our hotel in the Baksan valley, which will be our base for the duration of the trip.
Day 4-8:Acclimatisation walks in the Baksan Valley.
From the main Baksan valley, smaller valleys lead off, giving easy access to some beautiful peaks. The scope for walking and climbing is enormous and we will start off with one or two walks before taking to the snowy peaks. Our guide will also provide instruction in the use of crampon and ice axe on a nearby glacier, to ensure everyone feels comfortable with his or her equipment before the big climb. Throughout this acclimatisation and training period, Elbrus will be visible for much of the time. Each day we return to the hotel for a good meal washed down with a little vodka and perhaps a sauna!
Day 9:Move on to Elbrus
We move on to Elbrus today, so that we are in a position of take early advantage of good weather and climbing conditions on the mountain. After breakfast, a short bus ride takes us to the cable car and chair lift, which we use to arrive at the Barrels (large Nissan-huts), where we spend several nights acclimatising and getting ready for the climb.

In the afternoon, we go on to the glacier near the Barrels for additional ice axe and crampon practice. For further acclimatisation and as a leg-stretch, we may strike out to walk to the site of the Priutt Refuge, which can be reached in 1-1½ hours. We return to spend the evening at the Barrels.

Day 10:Hike to 5,000m.
To assist acclimatisation, we climb up to and beyond the Pastuhov Rocks (c5,000m) for some fabulous views, including the famous peak Ushba, the Matterhorn of the Caucasus.
Day 11:Rest day.
This is a rest day to prepare ourselves for Elbrus - time to read and to relax. If everyone is feeling fit and well, and the weather is particularly good, a summit attempt could be made on this day.
Day 12:Ascent of Mount Elbrus (5,642m).
We set off from the Barrels very early, pre-dawn, and begin our climb to the highest point of Europe. Alternatively, we may use a snow-cat (if available) to drive to the height of the Priutt Refuge, which is the normal starting point for a climb to the top. From here, it is a long, steady climb up to Sedlowina Saddle, the col between the two peaks of Elbrus. From the saddle, a 200m, steep snow slope leads to the crater rim (Elbrus is an extinct volcano). This is the hardest part of the climb. We follow the crater rim easily for about 20 minutes, to reach a small summit pyramid about 9 hours after leaving the Barrels. The scenery from the summit is just magnificent. For climbers who may be put off by the steep snow slope leading up from the saddle, there is always the option of climbing the east summit, which is slightly lower, but considerably easier. This is the peak climbed by most other parties, but it is not the true summit of Europe! After the climb, we will descend to the Barrels. If there is time, we may continue down to the Baksan Valley.
Day 13:We return to our hotel in the Baksan Valley, to celebrate the climb.
Day 14:Fly to St Petersburg.
We drive to Mineralny Vody from where we fly to St Petersburg, 'the Venice of the North''. Here we stay in the St Petersburg Hotel which overlooks the Battleship Aurora, whose guns signalled the start of the October Revolution in 1917.
Day 15:St Petersburg.
St Petersburg is brimming with cultural interest - and there is even a beach! The city does much to dispel preconceived notions of grim Russian cities and dour people! In the evening we will go out for a farewell dinner.
Day 16:Fly St Petersburg - London.
We will be taken to the airport for our flight back to London on British Airways.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Elbrus: Elbrus altitude profile, 10 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountains!

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The Jagged Globe leader is supported by our excellent Russian guides. Our local guides have made numerous ascents of Elbrus and other peaks throughout Russia and we consider them to provide the best service currently available for an ascent of the mountain.

Experience Required

Elbrus is graded 2A.

Elbrus is considered to be a suitable 'starter expedition' for fit trekkers and climbers. It is an ideal stepping-stone to the easier peaks of the Greater Ranges and only needs two weeks' holiday time. To join one of the Elbrus expeditions and have a good chance of reaching the summit, you need:

It is preferable that you have

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join this expedition you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!