Everest North Ridge
Altitude 8,850m/29,036ft » Duration 65 Days » Grade 4E
Climb Everest by the North Ridge from Tibet
Introduction
The following information provides you with details of how our Everest expedition will be run and the level of support you can expect to receive. It will also help you decide whether or not Everest is a climb that you should be attempting.
If you would like to discuss any aspect of the expedition further, you are welcome to contact Simon Lowe, who led the 1996 Jagged Globe Everest expedition to the North Ridge. This successful ascent included Britain's most prolific 8,000-metre peak climber, Alan Hinkes, and Matt Dickinson, the author of "The Death Zone." Matt's book gives a full account of the expedition and is recommended as a useful reference, to aid your preparations for the climb.
Jagged Globe's experience of Everest spans the mountain from the South Col across the West Ridge and North Face to the North Ridge itself. This experience, and intimate knowledge of the mountain, will be at your disposal to help you prepare for you own ascent of the mountain, as a member of the Jagged Globe team.
Everest North or South?
We run expeditions to both sides of the mountain - to the North Ridge and to the South Col route. We will run an expedition to the South Col because this remains the most popular choice for first-time "Everesters," as it gives the most assured means of reaching the top. Simply, the time spent at over 8,000 metres on the South side is less, as the summit is attempted from the South Col (just under 8,000 metres) in one push. On the North Ridge, the top camp is located at 8,400 metres, which means you will be exposed to the extremes of altitude for appreciably longer, spending at least one night there during the summit attempt. The south side has a good record of success, not least because a lot of people go that way, but also because of the momentum that these people generate, especially once the route to the top is opened by each year's first ascentionists.However, the North Ridge has become more accessible in recent years, and for those able to cope with the tougher physical demands imposed by the route, it gives a more cost-effective means of getting to the top. It also avoids the Hilary Step, which can become an insurmountable obstacle purely because of the number of people trying to negotiate it on summit day. However, technical interest is similar, if not more sustained on the North Ridge, as longer passages are on rock, with a series of "Steps" to be negotiated on the way to the summit.
Our Everest Record
On our first expedition to the South Col Route of Everest, in 1993, there were sixteen summiteers: seven climbers, seven Sherpas and two leaders. Since then, we have been successful on the North Ridge in 1996 and 2005 and again on the South Col Route in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2003, 2004 and 2005. Our one unsuccessful trip was stopped by deep snow on the North Ridge in 1994.
| First expedition | September 1993 |
| Expeditions completed | 11 |
| Successful expeditions | 10 |
| Number of summiteers | 75* |
Our Everest expeditions are not "guided" ascents, they are professionally led teams of competent mountaineers who each have enough experience to climb the world's highest mountain. The team will be relatively small (usually no more than 10 members), which means you receive personal attention from the leaders, whose aim will also be to achieve a positive team ethos. This team work is absolutely crucial on Everest for members' safety, especially high on the mountain. This is achieved less easily in a large group. However, team members do need to be suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will have the highest level of support, starting with strong leadership and Sherpas; this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.
*Figure includes all team members, Sherpas and leaders.
Leadership
David Hamilton (45) is the leader of our 2007 Everest North Ridge expedition. David became a professional mountaineer 20 years ago and is one of the world's foremost high altitude mountain leaders.David has led 16 expeditions to peaks higher than 7,500m in Hindu Kush (Afghanistan), Karakoram (Pakistan), China, Tibet and Nepal, including three Mount Everest expeditions (for Jagged Globe in 1999, 2003 and 2005.) This total includes 9 expeditions to 8,000m peaks.
Over a 19-year period, Dave has organised more than 70 ski touring, trekking and mountaineering projects in the world's great mountain ranges. He has led expeditions in Antarctica, Chile, Argentina, Europe, Greenland, Russia, Turkey, Iran, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Pakistan, China and Nepal.
While enjoying the challenges of the world's better-known mountains, David has a particular interest in innovative new adventures in remote, unexplored areas.
The Climb
All of our Tibet 8,000 metre expeditions enter the region via Nepal. In 2006, our Everest North Ridge climbers will fly from Kathmandu into Lhasa, one week after the Sherpas and other staff have entered Tibet overland at the border crossing on the Friendship Bridge. This will enable us to establish base camp early, before team members arrive.Beyond the border post at Xangmu, the expedition will drive to Nylam and the Tibetan plateau, where the team will spend 2 nights acclimatising at 3,800 meters. From here, the road climbs steadily to gain the plateau proper and a full two days rest is taken at Tingri. Now the road swings towards base camp, where we arrive after a day's drive. On the way we cross the Pang La, where we stop to get a view of Everest, with the North Ridge just visible. This is one of many mountains in a magnificent vista of the Himalaya, which spreads over the entire horizon, taking in Cho Oyu and Makalu, among many other Himalayan Giants.
Once in base camp, the Sherpas set off to establish advance base camp (ABC). Having gained more acclimatisation, we follow after a few days and make a leisurely ascent using 2 intermediary camps to ensure as gradual an ascent as possible to arrive at 6,440 metres in our camp nestled below the North Col. To this point, our journey will have been achieved by jeep and then by yak but, from here, the climb starts in earnest.
Above advance base camp, we will have 4 camps:
- Camp One - 7,066 metres on the North Col, located on snow.
- Camp Two - 7,400 metres located at the head of the snow ramp that stretches up from the Col - the camp is reasonably level, but prone to high winds that rake the north face.
- Camp Three - 7,900 metres - on rocky shelves.
- Camp Four 8,400 metres - Summit Launch Pad - on rocky ground, but sometimes on ledges cut into snow, depending on snowfall in the preceding season. The camp gives access to the North East Ridge, which leads to the top, via the Three Steps.
The aim of our first encounter with the mountain will be to acclimatise without unduly stressing our bodies, beyond what is necessary to achieve the essential altitudes required to acclimatise. Therefore, small rucksacks will be carried with personal equipment only (the carrying all group stores and loads will be a task for the Sherpas).
Having been in ABC for a few days, slowly allowing our bodies to adjust to the refined atmosphere, we will make our way up relatively easy, but physically tough, snow slopes to the North Col, at 7,066 metres. This is a comfortable camp location, with great views across the North Face and back over the upper reaches of the East Rongbuk Glacier. However, it is not expansive, and our relatively early arrival in Tibet should ensure a good site for our camp. We will plan on spending one night on the Col, to allow sufficient exposure to the altitude in order to kick-start our bodies to prepare for the further extremes of altitude to come. For some, this might be enough. For others, a trip to 7,400 metres (or even beyond) might suit their acclimatisation profile better, so the option will be available to climb to camp 2 for a visit there before making a descent to advance base camp.
There would be no point in climbing higher on Everest at this stage - as bodies would deteriorate rather than strengthen. Therefore, leaving the Sherpas to fulfil the task of preparing and stocking the high camps, with tents, food, and oxygen for the climb, the main team will make its way slowly back to base camp, for a sustained period of rest and preparation. Finally, once all camps are established, and everyone is refreshed, acclimatised and well fed, we will move back up the East Rongbuk glacier to our home at advance base camp. As soon as the weather is forecast as being sufficiently well-settled, we aim for the top, in one series of moves taking in a camp a day until we summit 5 days after leaving abc.
Experience Required
Everest North Ridge is graded 4E.To join the Everest team you will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 metres, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition. We have found that those who have previously been to an 8,000-metre peak have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. Exceptionally, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing an 8,000 metre peak but have climbed mountains such as Huascaran, Illimani, Denali or similar, could well consider Everest if they have the necessary commitment and determination.
Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb mixed ground graded AD, or equivalent, un-roped and be adequately competent and self-sufficient to move between and to live in high mountain camps un-aided or supervised.
Expedition Itinerary
| Day 1: | Outbound flight Departures For those joining the expedition in the UK, we fly from London to Kathmandu on Qatar Airlines via Doha. |
| Day 2: | Arrive Kathmandu We are met at the airport and taken to the Summit Hotel. This is an excellent hotel positioned well away from the bustle of the city centre and its friendly people do their best to make us feel at home. It has extensive gardens and a swimming pool. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day. Each team member will have his or her own room, to allow plenty of space for sorting out personal equipment. Exclusive to our 8,000-metre peak expeditions, the Everest expedition will use the Himalayan View wing of the hotel, as this has larger rooms opening on to spacious balconies and furnished to a higher standard than the main rooms of the hotel. |
| Day 3: | At leisure in Kathmandu While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will be able to explore this fascinating city. As those who have been there before will know, it is a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, temples and shrines, in a blend of ancient, colonial and modern architecture. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. |
| Day 4: | Fly to Lhasa If the weather is clear the flight will give extraordinary views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchenjunga. We should also get a good view from the air of the Kangshung valley. On arrival in Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel close to the city centre. This will be our base for the next few days while we acclimatise to the high altitude of the Tibetan plateau (Lhasa is one of the highest capitals in the world at 3,600m/12,000ft). |
| Day 5-6: | At leisure in Lhasa. While acclimatising, we will make the most of our time in Lhasa and visit the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's summer palace and perhaps one or two monasteries outside the city. Lhasa is a fascinating place, the indigenous Tibetan people and architecture contrasting strongly with the imposed Chinese influence. |
| Day 7: | Drive to Shigatse (6 hours). We set off in jeeps across the Tibetan plateau. Soon after leaving Lhasa, we reach the banks of the Tsang Po, which becomes the Brahmaputra River when it enters India. We drive up-stream for a while before turning southwest through barren desert-like valleys to reach Shigatse, Tibet's second city. Overnight in a hotel. Altitude: 3,900m. |
| Day 8: | Drive to Xegar (8 hours). As we continue along the Tibetan highway, the northern edge of the Greater Himalaya comes into view, often providing a spectacular panorama of peaks, including Everest. We overnight in a hotel 7 kilometres outside the main town of Xegar. If there is time, we may be able to visit the main town and its hilltop monastery. Altitude: 4,000m. |
| Day 9: | Acclimatisation Day. This is an important day which will help is cope with the big height gain to base camp tomorrow. The general advice is to take it easy, but a visit the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery (4,200m) are highly recommended. |
| Day 10: | Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m) Today we leave the main Lhasa to Kathmandu highway and head due south towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away. Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we round each corner. Finally there is the awesome north face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away. |
| Day 11-15: | Acclimatisation and local exploration We spend 4 days at base camp while our bodies adapt to the altitude. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, and photograph Everest. For those who are feeling up to it, there are plenty of hillsides to scramble up, and we can walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away. Another worthwhile objective would be to reach Tillman's Camp, an idyllic spot beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers staggering views of the north side of Everest. It is important not to overdo it during this period - there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must work at resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food. |
| Day 16: | Trek to First Interim Camp (5,680m) At last, with yaks carrying our supplies, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek starts easily enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, but it soon opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. We camp in a very pleasant spot, with plenty of space, no more than 2 hours after having turned into the East Rongbuk Valley. The camp is located on the right bank, overlooking the river below, and is short of the moraines and the toe of the glacier that lie ahead. |
| Day 17: | Trek to Second Interim Camp (c6,088m) Crossing small streams and moraines, we gain the opposite side of the valley and contour along it until the valley makes a very definite swing north. Here will be the site for our interim camp for future journeys between base and advance base but, for now, it marks the climb onto the glacier proper and the start of the Magic Highway. On subsequent journeys up the East Rongbuk Glacier, we will be fitter and better acclimatised, enabling us to complete the trek to ABC easily in two days, hence this will become the site of a single interim camp located where the glacier sweeps north (c5,890 metres). The Magic Highway is an unlikely tongue of moraine that passes down the middle of the treacherous ice pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The route is surprisingly level, with little height gain for the effort expended as the altitude makes it tough. Once on the Magic Highway, the conditions become more austere than during the previous day's walk, with ice and moraine constant companions from here on. At the start of the season, the streams on the glacier will be slight, carrying little water. However, as the season progresses through spring, and towards summer, some of these streams will become torrents, that will require frequent changes to the route in order to cross them safely. The Highway finally drifts in toward the east ridge of Changtse, where a lake often forms. The interim camp is reached after a 5 hour day of slow walking and nestles close to the entrance of the cwm to the north of Changtse, near to this moraine lake. |
| Day 18: | Trek to Advance Base Camp (c6,440m) Today, gives a relatively short walk into ABC, of a few hours. The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction during the final climb and, as you round the corner towards advance base camp, you can see the whole of the North East Ridge, from the Raphu La to the summit. The shimmering triangle of snow, that highlights the summit over 4 Kilometres distance and 2 Kilometres higher, will issues its siren's call, until your footsteps cross it! |
| Day 19-60: | Climb Everest It is not possible to be prescriptive about how the mountain will be climbed from this point on, as it will be matter for the leader and the team. For those that have been to extreme altitude before, we would aim to be as flexible as possible to allow for people's preferred acclimatisation routine. For some, this may mean climbing as high as camp 3 on the North Ridge, as soon as possible, before diving back to base camp for a long rest. Others might want to remain longer in ABC, taking several trips to the North Col and sleeping there overnight but not going any higher, for example. Whatever routine is adopted for acclimatisation, as soon as everyone is happy that they have achieved an optimum state of readiness, the team will return to base camp for a long period of rest and eating. After many days of resting and preparing, we return once more to ABC, using the single interim camp at the start of the Magic Highway, en route. Again, we pause in ABC, to eat some more and to ensure that everything is in place, and the weather is set as fair as possible. Then we head up. The route to the North Col will be well-known entity, as its slopes will have been ascended a few times by each of us as part of our acclimatisation process. However, we should find the metres slipping by more easily, as sights are now set on the very pinnacle of the mountain. From Camp 1 on the North Col, the route turns to follow a long snow ramp, the north ridge proper, that rests like a gigantic flying buttress supporting the upper reaches of the mountain. Although never steep, this section is prone to wind, sweeping icily across the mountain. After a full day, we reach camp 2 located at the head of the ramp. From here, the route moves on to broken rocky ground of shattered shale, as the north ridge cast off its layers of snow. However, the route remains relatively easy angled, although the gradient increases gently, until the next camp is reached. This is located where the mass of the north ridge rams home hard against the bulk of the mountain, on rocky shelves. The day is rewarded with stupendous views over the glaciers below. What were viewed as big mountains as they dominated the Magic Highway, now more easily blend with the humble backdrop of the Tibetan Plateau and the flatlands beyond. The top camp will give you an even greater sense of the world below your feet. The ascent remains on broken ledges, but these are easy with shale and scree interlacing between them until snow runnels give out onto the north face proper. Once clear of the rocks and on more open slopes, you turn directly upwards, to arrive at the final camp at about 8,400-metres. Summit day begins before mid-night! Leaving the tents in the still of the night, you headlamps shine up to pierce the darkness and illuminate a faint gully that leads to the ridge above. This line through the rocks is steeper than those traverse the day before, but the fixed ropes help lift you towards the skyline. Some scrambling, accompanied by a disproportionate amount of panting, will land you on the ridge at over 8,500- metres. The only thing now between you and the top, is about 400 metres of ascent, 3 rock steps and over a kilometre of ridge - the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome Kangshung Face falling off to your left - a mind-boggling drop in to Tibet. For the main part, you remain on the right flank and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by the First, Second and Third Steps. The hardest of these is the Second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent, which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you can expect an airy traverse en route to gaining the top. Finally, however, the mountain yields, and the final summit snowfield, that you had seen from miles below will come under your feet and herald your arrival to the Top of the World. |
| Day 60: | Team members walk to base camp |
| Day 61: | Packing personal equipment at base camp |
| Day 62: | Depart base camp and drive to Xangmu We undo our remarkable road journey across the Tibetan plateau. We overnight in a hotel, at Xangmu, ready to cross back into Nepal at first light. |
| Day 63: | Drive Kathamandu to Xangmu Once back in Kathmandu, Jagged Globe will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship. |
| Day 64: | At leisure in Kathmandu |
| Day 65: | Homebound flight departures |
PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing Everest, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.
Jagged Globe 8000m Service
Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough proposition for any climber, both physically and psychologically. We therefore recognise the importance of good quality food and equipment and the part that they play in a successful expedition. In preparation for our 8,000 metre peak programme, we have examined every aspect of our service, both at base camp and on the mountain, with a view to providing a very high level of support, including food and nourishment, while you undertake the tremendous challenge of climbing Everest
Medical Cover
The expedition will be equipped with the following:
- A medical kit compiled by the expedition doctor.
- Oxygen equipment reserved for medical use only.
- A portable hyperbaric chamber.
- Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for evacuation (see below).
Base Camp Equipment
We aim to make base camp as comfortable as possible, commensurate with the location and the nature of the expedition. This is to ensure that between climbs on the mountains, it is as restful as possible, to allow relaxation and preparation for the summit attempt. We will provide:
- A base camp manager to ensure that everything is administered seamlessly to the advantage of team members. The base camp manager will also be responsible for ensuring the logistics for the climb are in place and maintained, whilst the leader focuses on the effort to climb the upper reaches of the mountain.
- In base camp, each team member will have his or her own tent.
- Individual gas lamps will be available for climbers to use in their tents.
- Electricity will be available for recharging batteries for digital cameras, video cameras and other electrical equipment.
- Hot shower.
- A diet from both Western and local sources including fresh fruit, eggs and vegetables.
- Spacious dining tent, with high-backed chairs and tables.
- Advanced communication facilities to keep in touch with family, friends, work or business, consisting of:
- Laptop and printer
- Digital Broadband web access provided by a BGAN Inmarsat satellite transceiver (this system makes transmitting digital photographs in real-time a realistic and cost effective proposition.)
- Inmarsat mini-M, worldphone, for voice (can be used as a back-up digital system for email, but is too slow to support effective web-browsing.)
Weather Forecasting
The importance of having a reliable weather forecast, when climbing in any mountain range, is obvious. Whilst no service can be perfect and predict all changes in the weather, especially the most sudden and, potentially therefore, the most threatening, we aim to make as much information as possible available to the team leader, to aid planning and decision making. It is hoped, in this way, that the most advantageous period of weather can be chosen for summit attempts and any weather systems which would hamper an ascent are taken account of as early as possible.
We contract a weather service, specialising in 8,000 metre forecasting, to deliver a detailed weather forecast via email to base camp. During the summit attempt, this forecast will delivered daily by SMS direct to the mobile satellite telephone carried by the team leader, as well as to the base camp manager.
In addition, using BGAN and the internet, the team will be able to access any number of weather sites on the worldwide web. In conjunction with the weather forecast, the team will be able to plot the progress of the jet stream, and to get as complete a picture as possible of weather patterns affecting the high Himalaya.
Equipment
- High quality mountain tents, cooking equipment, fixed ropes and other communal equipment will be provided by Jagged Globe. For mountain tents, we rely solely on the highest quality tents, such as:
- Terra Nova Hyperspace
- Terra Nova Super Quasar
- Terra Nova Quasar
- MSR Butane/ Propane Gas Stoves - extremely lightweight and proven effective in low oxygen environments (as used by us on Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma previously.)
- Foam sleeping mats will be provided for each tent above base camp.
Food
- The majority of food will be from Western sources, except for staples such as rice, sugar and flour which will be bought locally.
- In addition to three meals a day at base camp, there will also be assorted supplements such as fresh bread, ground coffee, chocolate bars and breakfast cereals.
- Base camp cooking and menus will be organised by the base camp manager, working with the Sherpa cook.
- High altitude food will be based on selected boil-in-the-bag meals imported from the UK along with the best and tastiest freeze-dried meals we have found, so far.
Hygiene
The importance of personal hygiene on expeditions cannot be overstated. To improve the overall welfare of team members and to reduce the chances of illness, we take the following measures:
- Hygienic kitchen practice and the sterilisation of plates and utensils before every meal.
- Hot washing water and soap readily available before all meals at base camp and on request during the day.
- Shower facilities at base camp.
- Centralised toilet facilities at base camp, checked daily to ensure cleanliness.
Environmental Practice
The base camps and normal routes up the higher mountains, such as Everest, are under considerable environmental pressure. We will strive to minimise the impact of our expedition by adhering to a responsible and workable environmental policy, as set out by the UIAA.
We make every effort to retrieve ropes and other equipment from the mountain. The high altitude Sherpas will be paid a bonus for each load of equipment or rubbish that they are able to return to ABC for evacuation from here to base camp by yak.
Communications
Our aim is to make sure that the team has satellite communications wherever it is on the mountain, plus VHF radio communications between all team members (one radio each) and the base camp manager. This is to ensure that we can maintain a flow of information between all mountain locations and between all team members and people back home. It will also make sure that the team's progress to the summit is well known, especially on summit day when everyone involved in the expedition will be eager for news.
In addition to the BGAN digital broadband transceiver mentioned already, we will maintain:
- Voice Satellite Communication in base camp via Inmarsat Mini-M Worldphone.
- Mobile Voice Satellite Communication to mountain camps, using Thuraya or Iridium handheld satellite transceiver.
- VHF base station radio, located in base camp (65-Watt high power, Icom - IC2200H), with a high-gain, tuned dipole.
- VHF handheld radio (IC-V8) for each team member (on summit day to be carried by each Sherpa/ team member pair.).
By combining satellite and VHF radio, we will provide a robust communications net, covering all reaches of the mountain. This will not only facilitate the passage of information, but also give the team greater security; for example, by giving all team members access the team's doctor wherever each may be located, or indeed team members will be able to call the Company Doctor, or other Jagged Globe personnel located in Nepal or in the UK, if required.
Equipment
All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixings, tents, stoves and fuel will be brought from the UK. Climbers will need to provide their own personal equipment. As part of our service to 8,000 metre climbers, however, in addition to our normal hire stock, you can rent the following equipment from us:
- Extreme altitude mountaineering boots - Millet Everest or La Sportiva Olympus Mons (also available to buy at £395).
- Top-of-the-range down sleeping bag, rated to minus 40°C - either RAB Expedition (1100g fill weight) or Mountain Equipment Everest (1250g fill weight).
We can provide assistance with obtaining equipment not normally stocked by retail outlets. Some items of equipment are available for hire from us but, for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you purchase your own personal equipment and test it before departure.
A complete kit list is contained in the expedition dossier, which will be sent to you on receipt of your booking deposit. This also includes a list of discounted items, which can be purchased through us.
Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.
Oxygen
We will be using a lightweight Russian oxygen system exclusively throughout the expedition, manufactured by Poisk. The Poisk system is without doubt the best oxygen system currently available for mountaineering, as it has a proven track record. A new system is available, but this has not been used sufficiently to show its effectiveness. Anecdotal evidence would suggest that the new system still suffers from teething problems and that its reliability is not yet proven to be as good as Poisk. We don't believe that Everest is the place to test a system, and will continue to use Poisk for the foreseeable future.However, you must know that no system is entirely reliable and that they all suffer from use in what is an extremely hostile environment (grit was never a problem in the Russian Soyuz programme!) In Tibet in the higher reaches of the breathable atmosphere however, grit and ice often cause seals to fail and valves to stop working. This is unavoidable and some cylinders and regulators will be affected. Beyond keeping all seals and valves clean and dry, the problem is countered by our supplying more masks and regulators than there are team members, as well as a surfeit of oxygen bottles to include a reserve beyond what will be required just for summit ascents.
The amount of oxygen available to each team member has a direct bearing on the overall success of an expedition. We will provide enough oxygen for every member to sleep on it from 7,400m (camp 2 upwards) and to use it to climb from camp 3, to camp 4 and onwards to the summit and back to camp 3. The Sherpas will also be using oxygen as they are unlikely to be able to do their jobs properly without it.
We will buy the planned allocation of oxygen for every team member, leader and Sherpa taking part. We will assume that all team members will make at least one determined bid for the summit and provide the correct quantity of oxygen for everyone to go to the top.
At camp 2, camp 3 and camp 4 where you will stay prior to summit day, you will have oxygen to sleep. For summit day, you can rely on having a total of three bottles of oxygen; two full 3-litre bottles for the ascent and one full 3-litre bottle for the descent. You will only carry one bottle yourself at any one time (i.e. the one being used). The other 2 bottles will be carried by the Sherpas accompanying you on your summit attempt. One of these bottles will be stashed on the ridge, to be used during the descent. Having made your descent back to camp 4, there will be additional oxygen, should you remain at the high camp, rather than descending one camp further down the mountain.
We will also ensure that there will be sufficient oxygen for a second summit attempt should poor weather force members to turn back from the one of the high camps.
As Oxygen is an essential ingredient of any realistic attempt on the mountain, the cost of its supply and use are included in the overall price of the expedition.
Payment Schedule
The price of the expedition has been fixed in dollars, as the bulk of the expedition expenditure will be in that currency and exchange rates between Sterling and the US dollar can vary considerably. If preferred, payments can be made in Sterling at the exchange rate applicable at the time of payment.
| Price | US $40,000 |
| Deposit | US $2,000 |
| Final balance | US $38,000 |
Members will be welcome to join the expedition flight from London to Kathmandu on Qatar Airlines - price on application.
Payment Method
We prefer payment in US Dollars, where possible. Dollar payments can be made by bank transfer or bank draft directly into our US Dollar account, held in the UK. If you would like to pay your deposit by this means, then please contact us for details.If you prefer, we would be pleased to accept payments in UK Sterling at the exchange rate prevalent at the time of payment. If you wish to pay in UK Sterling then please contact us to confirm the exchange rate and the Sterling equivalent to be paid. Sterling payments can be accepted by cheque, bankers draft, debit or credit card (a surcharge may apply for balance payments). Or, if you would like to arrange a bank transfer, please contact us for details of our UK Sterling account.
Insurance
Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.
Additional Information
If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:- +44 (0) 845 345 8848
Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

