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Expeditions to the 8000 metre Peaks

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Gasherbrum II

Altitude 8,035m/26,361ft » Duration 51 Days » Grade 4E

The most attainable 8,000m peak in the Karakoram, an ideal objective for a first 8,000er

Introduction

2006 marks the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Gasherbrum II and Jagged Globe will be on the mountain for the fifth time. The Karakoram contains the greatest concentration of high altitude peaks in the world. Four 8,000m peaks straddle the Pakistan/China border within a few miles of each other: K2 8611m, Broad Peak 8047m, Gasherbrum I 8,068m and Gasherbrum II 8,035m. The vast accumulation of ice and glaciers surrounding these peaks has led to the Karakoram being called 'the third pole'.

This area was formerly part of the British Indian Empire prior to the emergence of Pakistan as an independent nation in 1947. In recent decades, it has become increasingly popular as a destination for adventurous trekkers and mountaineers. The landscape tends to be harsher than that found in mountainous areas of Nepal and India, and the tourist infrastructure is less developed. Consequently, the numbers of tourists is substantially less. Each year there are 50-60 expeditions attempting peaks over 6,000m in the Karakoram, comprising over 500 climbers. In addition several thousand trekkers make the popular treks to visit the base camps of famous peaks such as Nanga Parbat and K2.

Instances of violence or robbery targeted at tourists are almost unknown, and the area is comparable in terms of safety with other parts of Asia - and certainly better than some. Although Pakistan occasionally gets a bad press in the west as a result of governmental corruption and incompetence, it remains a safe place to visit as a tourist, and a very safe and relaxing place to visit as part of an organised expedition. The people of the mountain valleys where you will spend most of your time are overwhelmingly friendly, welcoming and helpful. Their good humour will contribute greatly to your enjoyment of climbing in their mountain homeland.

Gasherbrum II is the safest and 'easiest' of the Karakoram 8,000m peaks. It is an ideal choice for suitably experienced climbers wishing to attempt their first 8,000m peak. The route offers straightforward climbing in a superb and dramatic location. Well organised and adequately resourced expeditions to this peak have enjoyed high rates of success in recent years. An expedition to Gasherbrum II provides a more complete mountaineering experience than the commonly guided Tibetan 8,000m peaks (Shishapangma and Cho Oyu) which can be reached by jeep roads. The walk to Gasherbrum II base camp along the Baltoro glacier has been described as one of the best treks in the world. This long approach by foot has the added advantage of providing excellent acclimatisation. This expedition provides a rare chance to climb one of the world's highest peaks as part of an expertly led and well-resourced team.

The Expedition

This expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's highest mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's highest mountains, this could be the trip for you!

Expedition Report

Jagged Globe has completed three successful expeditions to Gasherbrum II in 1998, 1999 and 2001. On the 1998 expedition five out of six clients reached the summit on 9 July together with the expedition leader and two members of the local support staff. 65-year-old Ramon Blanco became the oldest person ever to climb an 8,000m peak with his ascent of Gasherbrum II as a member of this group. The 1999 group also reached the summit on 9 July. In 2001, 9 July was the summit date once more and expedition leader, David Hamilton topped out with 5 out of 7 climbers and two HAP's. Our expeditions are always scheduled to take advantage of the expected period of mid summer good weather. However Karakoram weather can be unsettled, and an extended period is allocated for summit bids. Our regular local staff of guides, cooks and high altitude porters work with our groups every year and greatly contribute to the success of our expeditions.

Our Record

Jagged Globe is Britain's longest running and most successful expedition organiser. We are committed to providing climbers with challenging yet attainable objectives with the emphasis on client care, safety and quality of service. In particular, we attach great importance to the quality of the leadership we provide. Efficient expert advice, prior to departure, combined with the best field operation in the Karakoram ensure that our expeditions enjoy the highest levels of client satisfaction and summit success.

Our aim is to provide you with a safe, enjoyable and successful expedition. The climb is arranged by us for you. The leaders and guides work towards your goals, not their personal interests. Our service before, during and after expedition service is greatly appreciated by our climbers, which is why so many of them choose to climb with us over and over again. More than 60% of our climbers have travelled with Jagged Globe before. This is because we put our climbers' needs first.

Jagged Globe is a forward-looking organisation and an innovator. As mountaineers ourselves, we are also adventurous in the trips we arrange - we do not follow the crowd. Jagged Globe was the first British company to:

Overall, our track record is one of the most impressive in the world and we intend to add to it further by making more successful ascents of the world's Greatest Mountains in the New Millennium.

The Climb

From base camp, the climbing can be divided into three distinct sections: The Icefall, the South West Ridge, and the diagonal traverse/summit ridge. The climb has few objective dangers. There are no very steep sections, and all the mountain camps are located in 'safe' sites. A variant of our ascent route has been skied in descent.

The Icefall

This is formed by a steepness in the Gasherbrum Glacier and has to be negotiated in order to reach the foot of G2. It is usual for all teams on the mountain to cooperate in creating and maintaining a safe route through this section. It certainly does not compare with the infamous Khumbu Icefall on Everest in terms of difficulty or danger. Steep or awkward sections will be roped and the entire route through the icefall will be marked with wands. Camp 1 will be placed at 5,950m above the icefall, near the foot of the South West Ridge. It is normal to climb from base camp to camp 1 in the early hours of the morning to avoid the heat of the sun. During the course of the expedition each member may make this journey 3 to 5 times. Initially this will take 7-8 hrs, but with increased fitness and acclimatisation the trip can be done in 4-5 hrs.

The South West Ridge

This is a well-defined snow ridge with a steep glacier/snow face on the right. The route alternates between the snow face and the ridge, following the easiest line up snow and ice slopes weaving between crevasses and short ice-cliffs. Although it is not difficult to climb, the route is consistently steep, which means height is gained quickly. Fixed rope will be placed on the entire route from Camp 1 to Camp 3, although the section from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is considerably steeper and more exposed than the section from Camp 2 to Camp 3. Camp 2 will be placed on a sheltered ledge at 6450m. Camp 3 is on a shoulder at 7,050m above the main part of the snow slope, while below the summit pyramid. Overall this section of the climb can be compared with the normal route on Mont Blanc du Tacul (grade Alpine PD). Camp 1 to Camp 2 will take 3-4 hrs once the fixed ropes are in place. Team members should expect to make this journey 2-3 times. Camp 2 to Camp 3 will also take 3-4 hrs, and it is normal to make this trip only twice: once to place some equipment at Camp 3 and then for a second time during the summit attempt.

The diagonal traverse and summit ridge

From Camp 3 the route continues up the SW ridge to 7,400m. This is the site of the rarely used Camp 4. A long rising diagonal traverse on snow then leads below the summit pyramid to join the east ridge at 7,750m. This is then followed in a gloriously exposed situation, but without any great difficulty, to the summit. The final steep 50m section will normally be equipped with fixed rope. With reasonable snow conditions, the summit day will usually involve 8-10 hrs of ascent starting at midnight. Descent can take 4-6 hrs, giving a 12-16 hr day.

Any steep or awkward sections of the climb will be equipped with fixed ropes and straightforward sections will be well marked with marker wands. The purpose of the ropes is twofold: firstly to assist with the ascent, but equally importantly as a safety measure in case of forced retreat in bad weather. Prior to the summit push, all members will need to help with the load carrying and placement of camps. This not only supports the logistic build-up on the mountain, which we will need for a safe ascent, but also provides essential acclimatisation for each member. Even so, high altitude porters do most of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out before they can attempt the summit. Under normal circumstances, members will do no more load carrying than they require to move their personal equipment and assist in their acclimatisation. We aim to ensure that everyone will have plenty of rest prior to the summit attempt.

Leadership

Our Gasherbrum II expedition will be led by an experienced Jagged Globe expedition leader with experience of high altitude expeditions. If it is warranted by expedition numbers, he will be assisted by a second UK guide with previous experience of Jagged Globe expeditions. They will be assisted by a hand-picked crew of HAPs (High Altitude Porters) and base camp staff. Our local staff work with Jagged Globe each year and know Gasherbrum II very well. Ali Raza, our regular sirdar, has been to the summit three times with Jagged Globe expeditions.

The leader's primary aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as an experienced instructional mountaineer, he will always operate with safety as the prime consideration.

We make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders all hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

The Jagged Globe Karakoram programme is directed by David Hamilton who is an expert in the mountain range. In 15 consecutive seasons of climbing in Pakistan he has organised more than 40 expeditions. The local staff who work with Jagged Globe expeditions have been trained by David over many seasons and are among the best available in the Karakoram.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be supported by a number of hand-picked high altitude porters who will do most of the load carrying.

Experience Required

Gasherbrum II is graded 4E.

The Gasherbrum II expedition is suitable for experienced, self- sufficient mountaineers.

To join us on Gasherbrum II, you will need to be fully conversant with mountaineering techniques. Ideally, you will have completed Alpine climbs or equivalent of AD and to have prior altitude experience of around 6,000m. Climbers who have achieved ascents of mountains such as Island Peak, Huascaran, Illimani, Denali or similar, could well consider Gasherbrum II as their next climb. A high level of fitness is also necessary, so in the months prior to the climb, you will need to be working on cardio-vascular improvement with the emphasis on leg exercises. Advice on physical preparation for the expedition is given in the expedition dossier, which is posted to you on receipt of your booking deposit.

All members are asked to bear in mind that they are part of a team. As such, individuals will be encouraged to observe the customary expedition conventions of team-work and mutual support.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Acclimatisation

To enable all expedition members to acclimatise well and so maximise their chance of success, the expedition is over 7 weeks long. Adaptation to the altitude takes time and there can be no short cuts, even if supplementary oxygen is used in the final stages. The atmospheric pressure at base camp (5,000m) is half that at sea level. On the summit of Gasherbrum II, it is only one third. A thorough programme of acclimatisation is built into the itinerary, which consists of regulated height gains, followed by descent and rest.

Approximate altitude profile of Gasherbrum II: Gasherbrum II altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Climbing Conditions

Climbers should be aware that the temperatures encountered on the mountain may be considerably higher than they would expect. We will be climbing at the height of the Karakoram Summer and daytime temperatures, even at high altitudes, can be very hot. Average temperatures will be much warmer than those found at similar altitudes in Nepal where most of the climbing occurs in the Spring and Autumn seasons. Wherever possible, the climbing will be done in the early hours of the morning to avoid the heat of the sun which softens the snow and slows progress. Climbers moving in the heat of the day should expect to wear light clothes and take adequate precautions against sunburn. This is especially true in the icefall and on the slopes leading to camp 2. By contrast, climbing above camp 2 requires an early start and conditions could be very cold. On summit day good footwear, gloves and headgear together with down jackets will be essential.

Expedition Itinerary

The itinerary and duration of the expedition is governed by logistical factors and by the need to acclimatise. Gasherbrum II is more interesting than many expeditions in that getting to it involves a stunning trek. By the time you reach base camp you will already have a good degree of acclimatisation, meaning a long period at base camp prior to the climb is not necessary. The itinerary also allows for hold-ups due to poor weather, which are inevitable. The duration of the expedition achieves a balance between time efficiency and giving a good chance of summit success.

Day 1:Fly to Islamabad.
Members joining in the UK can join the expedition flight from London if they wish.
Day 2:Arrive Islamabad.
Overnight in the Shalimar, Rawalpindi.
Day 3:At leisure in Islamabad.
Team briefing by the Ministry of Tourism.
Day 4:Fly to Skardu.
Spectacular views of Nanga Parbat. Overnight K2 hotel on the edge of the Karakoram mountain range.
Day 5:At leisure in Skardu.
Acclimatising to the temperature and local culture!
Day 6:Drive to Askole.
A long drive by jeep (8 hrs) up the Shigar Valley to the roadhead at Askole. Camp just outside the village.
Day 7-14:Trek to Concordia and Gasherbrum Base Camp.
We commence the magnificent trek to Concordia and the Gasherbrums. The Baltoro Valley contains many of the world's most celebrated peaks: Trango Towers, Cathedral Spires, Masherbrum, Broad Peak, Mitre Peak, K2 etc. Take plenty of camera film! After eight days walking through the "Throne Room of the Mountain Gods" we reach Gasherbrum Base Camp.
Day 15-44:Ascent of Gasherbrum II.
We have four weeks to climb the mountain. Members will need to provide some logistic support, which will give them familiarity with the mountain and improve their acclimatisation. Prior to the summit assault, all members will have a good rest at base camp to fuel up for the big climb. (See Page 4. for details of The Climb).
Day 45:Start of the trek out, via the Vigne Glacier.
A whole day of trekking (8 hrs) through Concordia and up the Vigne Glacier, past some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth.
Day 46:The Gondogoro La and descent to the Hushe Valley.
The Gondogoro La (5,585m) is a climb in its own right, axes and crampons are a must. Very soon after the descent we find grass, flowers and birds - perfume and music after 6 weeks in a mountain desert. A day of contrasts.
Day 47:Walk to Hushe village.
A long, glorious day strolling down the verdant Hushe valley. Sharp spires of perfect granite rake the sky, the fang of Layla Peak being particularly impressive. Our last night under canvas.
Day 48:Drive to Skardu.
After a 7 hour drive, a hotel room with shower and soft bed awaits.
Day 49:Fly Skardu to Islamabad.
Stay at the Shalimar hotel.
Day 50:At leisure in Rawalpindi.
Day 51:Depart Islamabad.

PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

International Guiding Operators 8000 (IGO 8000)

IGO 8000 is a self-regulating body with a Recommended Code of Conduct, as approved by the UIAA, for High Altitude Professional Expeditions the world body that presents climbers in more than 60 countries. The code can apply to both professionally led expeditions like ours, and "guided" expeditions, which some organisations offer. The main elements of the code cover the safety of the team members, the protection of the mountain environment, and the level of support provided.

As a Founder Member of IGO 8000, Jagged Globe is committed to making high altitude climbing safer for our team members, Sherpas and our leaders. Environmental protection has always been a high priority for us, as has looking after our local staff, whose friendship and enthusiasm make our expeditions so much more than just a climbing experience. As more and more people discover the mountains, we will continue to work with the other members of IGO 8000 to promote and improve good practice among all teams that aspire to climb in the Greater Ranges.

Safety and Conduct

No expedition provider can guarantee summit success or total safety while among the world's highest mountains. Jagged Globe has a clear policy of safety before summit. However, participation inevitably involves a degree of risk, which has to be assumed by each team member. On summit day, a turn around time will be imposed to avoid being caught out high on the mountain by darkness or exhaustion. Throughout the expedition, the interests of the team as a whole will be central to any decisions made by the leader or guides. For information on medical cover and communications, please refer to the Jagged Globe 8,000m service.

High Altitude Warning

Although safety is a major consideration during our expeditions, there are dangers involved in climbing 8,000m peaks that cannot be avoided. Extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards make high altitude climbing a risky occupation at the best of times. Members of our 8,000m peak expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an inherent part of high altitude mountaineering.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel are brought from the UK. Climbers need to provide their own personal equipment, including:

We can provide assistance with obtaining equipment not normally stocked by retail outlets. Some items of equipment are available for hire from us but, for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you purchase your own personal equipment and test it before departure.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

Maps and Guides

Most maps are available direct from Cordee

Telephone
0116 2543579 (UK)
+44 116 2543579 (from outside UK)

FAX
0116 2471176 (UK)
+44 116 2471176 (from outside UK)

Postal address
3a De Montfort Street, Leicester, LE1 7HD, Great Britain

Electronic mail
Information: info@cordee.co.uk
Trade Sales: sales@cordee.co.uk

If you wish to bring copies of maps and guidebooks on this expedition, we recommend the following publications:

Maps

**Contact: John Callanan, 117 Spencer Road, Wealdstone, Middlesex, HA3 7AW. Tel: 0208 863 3246)

Books

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £800 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!