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Expeditions to the Cold Regions

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Arctic Trilogy

Altitude 3,692m/12,113ft » Duration 20 Days » Grade 3B

Ascents of the three highest mountains in the Arctic, including Gunnbjorn Fjeld - the 'Eighth Summit'

Introduction

Dominated by a vast ice cap (second only in the world to the Antarctic ice sheet), Greenland must be one of the least explored places on earth and a paradise for mountaineers. The Watkins Mountains lie in a wildly remote area of Arctic East Greenland. It is at least 500Km from the nearest habitation - handfuls of tiny settlements, established on the thin slivers of coastline free of ice, where many of the Inuit community live by subsistence hunting. Known as 'Hvitserk' by the Norse (the highest peaks could be seen out to sea, and so were used as navigation aids), it was only in the 1930's that the highest mountain in the range, Gunnbjorn Fjeld (3,693m), was sighted again and subsequently climbed. Since then, only a relatively small number of climbers have reached the highest point in the Arctic.

The Watkins Range not only contains Gunnbjorn Fjeld, but also the ten highest peaks above the Polar Circle. On this expedition, our aim is to make ascents of the three highest peaks in the Arctic, Gunnbjorn Fjeld (3,693m), Qaqqaq Johnson (3,669m) and Qaqqaq Kershaw (3,683m). There is also the very real chance of exploration and the possibility to add to Arctic mountaineering history by making first ascents of both new routes and mountains.

Massively glaciated, the Watkins Range is a dream destination for adventurous Arctic mountaineering and ski touring. The team will employ the use of polar travel methods, pulling all equipment in sleds whilst using skis to preventing 'sinking in'. An expedition to climb in the Watkins provides a rare opportunity to visit an area off the map to all but a handful of mountaineers in a pristine and wildly beautiful high Arctic environment.

The Climbs

Gunnbjorn Fjeld
Gunnbjorn Fjeld rises above huge glaciers in a series of snow ridges and faces. Our route of ascent is reasonably technically straightforward, but is in a thrilling position and one that constantly reminds the climber of how utterly remote one is in the High Arctic environment. Irrespective of how difficult the climbing is, the location ensures that an ascent of this mountain is a weighty undertaking. good personal organisation and endurance are essential attributes.

Having landed on the glacier in a ski-equipped Twin Otter, the team will establish base camp. With all the equipment we will need behind us in sleds, we will then move up the glacier to establish a high camp. The position is important; we must be high enough (around 2,200m) to make the summit and return in one long day.

After an early start the route ascends the glacier that runs to the south of the summit. Having crossed several large crevasses on snow bridges, we will follow the gently rising south ridge. Skis are left below the first of the steep snow fields. This is ascended (40 degrees) to a lessening in angle, followed by another similarly steep slope. Heading left, the top slope merges with a very blunt snow ridge (40 degrees). As the summit is neared, the ridge lessens in angle until easy ground leads to the highest point in the Arctic, around 1,500m vertical height difference from base camp. Temperatures drop rapidly in the evening, by which time the return journey should be completed.

Qaqqaq Kershaw
Seen from the north side, the mountain appears as a huge, serac'ed whale back. Ascending from the glacier, we will traverse either the north east or south west ridges. Both routes are completely on snow and are not steep. However the summit ridge is over 1 kilometre long, making for a long day, camp to camp.

Qaqqaq Johnson
Qaqqaq Johnson can be accessed from the same camp as used for Kershaw. Skis are left behind at the point where the slopes steepen from the glacier. A long 45 degree snow climb reaches the fine summit. Views extend across the whole range, including the two other highest points in the Arctic.

First Ascents
Based on previously gathered research, we will take advantage of prevailing conditions to attempt reportedly unclimbed mountains. The style of ascent will be similar to those described above; massively glaciated and snowy peaks with fine ridges and faces, some of which are 3,000+ metres high.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly to Iceland
Meet in the airport before embarking on our evening flight to Keflavik, Iceland. Dark in the UK, the horizon gets lighter, the further north we fly, hinting at the long hours of light in Greenland. Upon arrival, it is a 45-minute coach transfer to our centrally located guest house in the capital city of Iceland, Reykjavik.
Day 2:Fly Iceland to Kulusuk, East Greenland
Taxi transfers from the guest house takes five minutes to reach Reykjavik's airpor t- the small base from which Fokker 50 propeller planes depart for the east coast of Greenland. Taking off, the coastline of Iceland rapidly fades into the distance, to be replaced by the waters of the Denmark Strait. We begin to see icebergs and pack ice appearing before Greenland first comes into sight. Photos cannot prepare you for the first time 'land' is sighted; the ice-filled sea abruptly gives way to row upon row of jagged peaks, interspersed with glaciers, stretching out in the distance. It is an exciting approach to Kulusuk gravel strip and we disembark for a short while before again flying north. A 500Km flight up the east coast of Greenland leaves no doubt as to the scale or potential of this vast and wild land. To the west, the mountains submerge into the inland ice, thousands of metres thick, whilst below and to the right, gigantic glaciers meet the sea in ice faces may miles long.

Approaching Constable Point, we fly over the biggest fjord system in the world, Scoresbysund. Having landed, baggage is arranged, before being loaded onto onto the ski-equipped Twin Otter, a remarkably tough and capable propeller plane. Space will be tight on board as every item of equipment necessary for the expedition is packed. We take-off and we fly south, bound for the Watkins Range. This aerial view will be very useful in checking out the expedition objectives. By circling, a suitable glacier on which to land will be selected, before making an approach and setting-down. All equipment is off-loaded and the plane soon departs, leaving the team in complete isolation for the duration of our trip. Camp is established, before turning in for the 'night' (it never really gets dark at this time of year).

Day 3:Base camp familiarisation
A day to fully establish a comfortable base camp, including communal tent and then familiarise ourselves with the skis, pulks and other specialist equipment that we will be using during the expedition.
Day 4:Approach Gunnbjorn Fjeld
Travelling as light as possible, with all necessary equipment towed in pulks, the team will make its way up the glacier that runs to the south of the peak. Although crevasse danger is minimal, the team needs to be roped together as a precaution. Camp will be made at around 2,200m in sight and within striking distance of the summit. Much time will be needed each evening to melt sufficient snow for drinking water, as it is essential to keep well hydrated in the dry and high environment.
Day 5:Ascent of Gunnbjorn Fjeld (3,693m)
The day starts early so that we can melt water and eat some breakfast before setting off. Roped up as a precaution against crevasses, skis are utilised for around 7km, before they are depot'ed and crampons put on for the climb to the summit. The ascent should take around 7-8 hours, but is dependent on conditions. Descent is made back to our skis and then camp, before evening when the temperature falls.
Day 6:Return to base camp
We strike high camp and travel back down to base camp. For those who would like to rest and relax, the rest of the day is free. For those wanting more, trail can be laid for the next day!
Day 7:Approach Kershaw and Johnson
Base camp is left behind with enough equipment to make ascents of both Qaqqaq Kershaw and Qaqqaq Johnson. The journey, pulling sleds, may be up to 15 km long and, in bad snow conditions, could be strenuous. A high camp will be made in a position that allows good access to both Kershaw and Johnson.
Day 8:Ascent of Kershaw (3,683m)
An early start for what may well be the most strenuous of the three big ascents. A long glacier approach will put us in a position to traverse, on foot, the kilometre-long summit ridge. The ground covered is nearly all on glacier, so ropes are likely to be used for the duration of the day. The ascent is not technical, but the physical exertion makes for a tough and long day. Dependent upon the exact positioning of our high camp, it is likely that we will cover 16Km on skis before reaching camp.
Day 9:Spare day
A day to accommodate for bad weather delays or rest.
Day 10:Ascent of Qaqqaq Johnson (3,669m)
An early start and a similar approach to that used for Kershaw. The climb to the summit of Johnson can be made by a long 45 degree snow slope or by an ascent to a col, then a snow ridge.
Day 11:Return to base camp
High camp is broken, and we make the return journey to base camp.
Day 12-15:First ascents
We have four days in which to attempt first ascents of mountains and new routes. As with each of the highest summits, it is likely that a high camp will be established, before making an alpine-style, day-long ascent of the peak in question.
Day 16:First ascents
We have four days in which to attempt first ascents of mountains and new routes. As with each of the highest summits, it is likely that a high camp will be established, before making an alpine-style, day-long ascent of the peak in question.
Day 17:Twin Otter pick-up, return to Constable Point
Day 18:Fly Constable Point to Reykjavik
Day 19:Spare day in and around Reykjavik
Day 20:Depart Iceland
Transfer to Keflavik airport. Return flight home.

PLEASE NOTE: Please note that the above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, changes may be forced on it by weather conditions, transport failure or other unforeseen events. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Leadership

All of our expeditions are led by experienced mountaineers. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

Our Artic Trilogyexpedition will be led by one of our most experience Jagged Globe leaders. There are just four places available.

Experience Required

Arctic Trilogy is graded 3B.

The ground covered to get to the base camp area is generally moderate and is therefore suitable for people with a basic grounding in mountaineering, with some skiing experience. You do not need to be a great skier, as you are really just walking on skis with skins attached to the bottom. These can also be kept on when going down slight gradients.

It is essential that you have completed alpine routes of at least grade PD, such as those included in Jagged Globe's Saas 4,000ers, Zermatt 4,000ers and Oberland 4,000ers courses.

To get the most out of this expedition, you need:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

For Artic Trilogyyou need:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!