banner photo

Expeditions to South America

Find us on Facebook

Huascaran

Altitude 6,769m/22,208ft » Duration 26 Days » Grade 3B

Climb Peru's highest mountain after acclimatising on Pisco and the superb Santa Cruz trek

[more]

In the icefall on Huascaran (www2), 41 kb

In the icefall on Huascaran Photo: © Adele Pennington

Introduction

The Peruvian Andes are considered by many mountaineers to be the most beautiful and impressive mountains in the world. The ascent of Huascaran follows an acclimatisation trek through the Santa Cruz Valley and a climb of Pisco (5,752m), an attractive snow peak with interesting climbing and excellent views of Huascaran itself.

Huascaran is Peru's highest mountain; its two summits are separated by an enormous col, the Garganta, which is gained by climbing along the edge of a tumbling icefall. This can give several short steep pitches, although the difficulties can change overnight. From the top camp just below the Garganta, the route to the south summit follows snow and ice slopes, steeply at first, to the highest point in the tropics. Access to the south summit is sometimes barred by a large crevasse, in which case we then climb the lower north summit (6,664m). In July 2007, Andy Chapman's team was our first since 2001 to climb to the higher, south summit... [read more]

You can combine Huascaran with Alpamayo for nearly five weeks climbing.

Experience Required

The Huascaran expedition provides a great climb in a superb setting. It is attainable by those who have climbed, for example, Nepalese Trekking Peaks and is a logical progression for those who hope to climb higher and more serious mountains in the future...[read more ]
This expedition is graded 3B... [read more] about grades
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be supported by local Peruvian Guides... read more

There are 12 places available on the expedition.

Leader Iain Peter (Jun '12).

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1: Fly from London to Lima. We arrive in Lima in the late evening and are taken to our hotel in the city centre. Team members joining in Lima can meet the rest of the team at the hotel and make arrangements for the drive to Huaraz the following morning... [read more]

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:
  • +44 (0) 845 345 8848
Alternatively, you can contact us by email

First Expedition
July 1995
Summits
12
Total
15
Latest Reports & Photos (Jul '08)
The route through the icefall on HuascaranPisco summitDescending from Moraine Camp
News items:

Dates

Click to book a place online
Sat 16 Jun - Wed 11 Jul '12
Pre-Trip Weekend:
Discuss equipment, fitness, health and acclimatisation in Snowdonia

Prices (choose currency)

UK full cost£3,525
Lima£2,420

Altitude Profile

Courses

To get the most from your expedition, Jagged Globe offer courses to make sure you have all the skills and the fitness you need [more]

Other Trips at this Grade

These expeditions have a similar grade and might also suit you. For more information on grading [click here]

Expedition nameGrade
Lhakpa Ri2B
Everest Base Camp & Island Peak2B
Bolivian Climber3B
Khumbu Climber3B