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Lhakpa Ri

Altitude 7,043m/23,107ft » Duration 29 Days » Grade 2B

The world's most climbable 7,000m peak

Introduction

Jagged Globe has organised ten expeditions to Lhakpa Ri (7,045m) since 2004 and as such, we have an excellent knowledge of this mountaineering objective, located opposite the North Face of Mt Everest. The approach to Lhakpa Ri is via Lhasa and the Tibetan Plateau, to the Rongbuk Monastery and Base Camp on the North side of Everest. We then trek up the historic East Rongbuk Glacier, following the Magic Highway of moraine through huge pinnacles of ice, to Advance Base Camp (6,400m), our launch pad for an ascent of what is probably the world's most attainable 7,000m peak. In spring 2011, we are offering the climb to the North Col (c7,000m) on Everest as an extension to the Lhakpa Ri climb. You can also visit the historical city of Lhasa as a 3-day extension to the trip.

The North Col ascent is significantly more involved, being much steeper and requiring a higher level of rope skills. As such, we have graded the North Col Extension as '3B', compared to Lhakpa Ri, which is '2B' in our Grading System. Clearly the expedition duration is the same whether you opt to climb to the North Col, with the Lhakpa Ri only climbers spending an extra day in Advance Base Camp when the North Col climbers make their ascent. There is an additional cost for climbing to the North Col. Please note that this extension is not available on our August/September expedition, as the fixed ropes placed be teams attempting Everest in the Spring season are not reliably in place later in the year.

The Mountain

Lhakpa Ri is higher than anything outside Asia and though it is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world, it is not a 'trek'. To join the expedition, you need previous remote, high-altitude trekking experience and be comfortable using an ice axe and crampons. The ascent from Advanced Base Camp crosses a snowy plateau, then follows a shallow depression on the southwest flank of the mountain. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, the route turns south and follows a spectacular airy snow ridge to the summit. The views from the summit, with the North Face of Everest behind, are incredible.

The North Col of Everest is steeped in the history of the early attempts to climb Everest, during the 1920s and 1930s. Discovered by George Mallory and his team in 1922, it is the key to the ascent of Everest from the north. Following our ascent of Lhakpa Ri, we will have a rest day before those team members who have booked the North Col extension, will attempt the climb. Using fixed ropes, we ascend up the steep flanks of the North Col, to its crest at 7,000m. This is an historic location, right at the foot of the North Ridge and the whole of the route attempted by Mallory and Irvine is visible directly above. Members of the team who have opted just to climb Lhakpa Ri, will enjoy following the rest of the team's progress from ABC through binoculars.

After the climbs, we return to Everest Base Camp and drive via the Friendship Highway to Kathmandu, to complete our month-long Everest experience.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London Heathrow to Kathmandu.
Day 2:Arrive in Kathmandu.
We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a remarkably pleasant and friendly establishment situated on a hill overlooking the city.
Day 3:At leisure in Kathmandu.
There will be time for us to explore the bazaars, shops and monasteries of this fascinating city. The expedition leader will also examine everyone's climbing equipment so that any shortfalls can be purchased in Kathmandu prior to flying to Tibet. Chinese Visas allowing entry to Tibet will also be issued by the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.
Day 4:Drive to the Tibetan border.
We leave the Summit Hotel and begin our drive to Kodari at the Tibetan border. On the way we will have a lunch stop, before arriving at the border town by mid-afternoon. Here we will settle into a lodge for the evening.
Day 5:Cross into Tibet.
After breakfast we walk across the Friendship Bridge into Tibet. We have our papers checked at the border, before boarding our Land Cruisers and continuing on to Zhangmu to complete customs. It will take us six days to complete our journey to Everest Base Camp. At first the road climbs up through narrow gorges to Nyalam, where we spend our first night.
Day 6-7:Acclimatisation days at Nyalam.
There is an excellent walk on the hill to the West of Nyalam, which offers impressive views of Shishapangma. The highest point is 4,680m, but team members need not push themselves at this stage and typically members of the group will turn around earlier if they are feeling the altitude. We descend back to Nyalam for the night. The next day we will continue our process of steady acclimatisation with a walk to the East of the town to a point on the ridge at 4,460m. There are cairns on the way up covered in prayer flags and again, members will choose how high they feel comfortable with going.
Day 8:Drive to Xegar.
After a very early breakfast and start it takes a couple of hours to reach the top of the Tibetan Plateau and to cross the Thang La (5,200m). As we continue along the Tibetan highway, the northern edge of the Greater Himalaya comes into view, often providing a spectacular panorama of peaks, including Everest. We overnight in a hotel 7 kilometres outside the main town of Xegar (4,300m).
Day 9:Acclimatisation Day.
This is an important day, which will help us cope with the big height gain to base camp tomorrow. The general advice is to take it easy, but a visit the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery (4,600m / 3.5 hours) is highly recommended.
Day 10:Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)
From Xegar the scenery becomes even more spectacular as we round each corner. Finally there is the awesome north face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. It's a 4 hour drive to reach base camp. From base camp, Everest does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away.
Day 11-14:Acclimatisation and local exploration.
We are based on Everest Base Camp for four days. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, photograph Everest and crucially, to allow our bodies adapt to the altitude. Typically, teams will walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away, practice ropework, crampon and ice axe skills on a nearby snow patch and make an initial acclimatisation trek to Japanese Camp. However, it is important not to overdo it during this period - there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must work at resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food.
Day 15:Move to Japanese Camp (5,500m).
At last, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek to Japanese Camp starts easily enough, crossing the pebble flood plain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main Rongbuk Valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, where Japanese camp is located, above the river and in a pleasant and sunny spot (3 hours).
Day 16:Move to Changtse Base Camp (5,800m).
The valley now opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. Crossing some streams and moraine hills, we gain the opposite side of the valley and contour along it to join the aptly named Magic Highway. This is an unlikely river of moraine that flows right through the middle of the treacherous ice pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The route is surprisingly easy walking, although the altitude makes it hard work! The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction, and we can now see the whole of the North East Ridge, from the Raphu La to the summit. This is an immense mountain! The Highway finally drifts in toward the east ridge of Changtse, where a lake often forms. We camp here below the final steepening which leads to advance base camp (6 hours).
Day 17:Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,350m).
The trail follows the east side of the East Rongbuk Glacier, to begin with on the valley side, then on the glacier itself, before moving back onto the vast moraines that cover the mountain sides where ABC has been established. As we approach the huge face of the North side of Everest we begin to see Lhakpa Ri over to the left, and to the south, the col that is the Raphu La which leads to the Kangshung Face of Everest and has Makalu visible over it's horizon. Our campsite is on the moraines just a short distance from where most of the teams climbing Everest set up their ABC, giving us a sense of remoteness and privacy. (3 - 4 hours).
Day 18-20:At leisure at Advance Base Camp.
Once again we will be working at resting, avoiding any form of exertion, getting up late and drinking and eating as much as we can force down. It is quite normal to feel the initial symptoms of altitude sickness, though these should pass after a couple of nights. Once we are comfortable with the altitude, we can walk up to Everest ABC an hour or so up the glacier, and perhaps on to the glacier below the North Col. This is a real treat for those familiar with the epic stories and characters of the early attempts on Everest during the 1920s - little has changed since then although there might be a few more people around! Also recommended is a hike across the almost level East Rongbuk Glacier to the Raphu La. We will get a good look at our route up Lhakpa Ri, and will continue to practice our rope skills.
Day 21:Climb Lhakpa Ri (7,045m).
We make an early start from ABC and set off across the glacier. There are few crevasses and the going is easy until we reach the very foot of the slopes leading up to the ridge to the north of the summit. Most of the route is about 20 - 30 degrees steep, but it is a long flog and a hard day. However, the views and the situation will be worth it! The team will move together in roped groups of 4 - 5 people per rope, as the angle does not warrant the use of fixed ropes. The snow slope leads to the gently angled north ridge, on the other side of which is the Kharta Glacier, up which Mallory climbed to get his first view of the east side of the North Col of Everest. The ridge leads up to the summit of Lhakpa Ri. Weather permitting, there will be unbelievable views of Everest just across the glacier, Makalu to the south and a host of other peaks from Cho Oyu to Kangchenjunga. No doubt we will be tempted to linger for some time, taking in the view and identifying the host of summits, some below us, but most of them above! We descend to ABC by the same route.
Day 22:Rest day.
A rest day will no doubt be welcome after our ascent of Lhakpa Ri. In the afternoon, those who have opted for the North Col Extension will organise their equipment for the North Col climb the following day.
Day 23:THE NORTH COL EXTENSION (7,066m).
Please note that this extension is only available upon booking, for an additonal fee, and for those who have the required experience (see 'Experience Required' section below). Lhakpa Ri only climbers can join the team to the edge of the glacier and enjoy an morning watching their progress on the fixed lines! The middle of May is a common time for teams summiting on Everest, so there should be plenty of activity on the mountain and excitement around Advance Base Camp.

Under the supervision of the expedition leader and Sherpas, we make another early start from ABC and set off for the North Col. The moraine continues up the side of the glacier, close to the flank of Changtse, then we break out onto the glacier. There are few crevasses and the going is easy until we reach the very foot of the slopes leading up to the col. The entire route to the col is fixed with ropes and these provide security and assistance as we weave up between seracs of ice. Most of the route is about 20 - 40 degrees steep, but there are usually some short steeper sections. The height gain up the headwall to the col is only 300m, but it will take a long time and be an exceptionally hard day. However, the views and the situation will be worth it! Weather permitting; there will be unbelievable views across the north face, up the North Ridge to the summit, and westwards towards Pumori and Cho Oyu. After taking photos and having had a good rest, we head back down to ABC, having truly rubbed our noses in Everest!

Day 24:Spare day.
A spare day is included in case we need more time to acclimatise, or if we are held back by the weather. Alternatively, we may complete either of the climbs earlier.
Day 25:Return to Base Camp.
This is a long hike all the way back to base camp. At least it is downhill! Once at base camp, the air will feel comparatively thick, and we can enjoy our final evening in the shadow of Everest.
Day 26:Drive to Zhangmu.
This is a remarkable road journey across the Tibetan plateau, with excellent views of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. We drop down through a river gorge to Zhangmu. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 27:Drive to the Nepalese Border and Kathmandu.
We make an early start for the short drive to Tibet's border with Nepal. From here, a 6-hour journey in a private bus takes us through Nepal's verdant valleys to Kathmandu and a warm welcome at the Summit Hotel.
Day 28:At leisure in Kathmandu.
Time for some last minute shopping and sightseeing, before our journey home.
Day 29:Fly Kathmandu to London.
Our scheduled flight back to the UK arrives in London Heathrow early evening.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Extensions

The North Col Extension
The climb to the North Col is from Advanced Base Camp and normally takes place following a rest day, having already climbed Lhakpa Ri. From Advance Base Camp, we trek for about an hour and a half to 6,450m at the edge of the glacier where we put our crampons on. From here, we continue for another hour to the base of the fixed lines (6,600m), which stretch all the way to Camp 1 on the North Col of Everest. The route is fixed in late March each year by teams attempting to climb Everest from the North. Though the glacier can change from year to year, higher up you should expect some steep sections, weaving around ice cliffs, where you will make full use of the fixed ropes and your ice axe. It's common for there to be a couple of small crevasses, which are spanned by ladders. We will make an early start and would hope to reach the col and descend in a 10-hour round trip. Please note that this extension is not available in August/September.

Lhasa Extension
This two night extension is available at additional cost and extends your Lhakpa Ri expedition by a further day.

Day 26 - 27:Drive to Lhasa.
Those opting for the 2-night Lhasa extension will say farewell to the team at Everest Base Camp, as they travel overland to Lhasa whilst the rest of the team return to Kathmandu. On arrival in Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel close to the city centre.
Day 28:Explore Lhasa.
We visit the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's summer palace and perhaps one or two monasteries outside the city. Lhasa is a fascinating place, the indigenous Tibetan people and architecture contrasting strongly with the imposed Chinese influence.
Day 29:Fly to Kathmandu.
If the weather is clear the flight will give extraordinary views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchenjunga. We should also get a good view from the air of the Kangshung Valley. We check into the Summit Hotel and have time for some last minute shopping and sightseeing, before our journey home.
Day 30:Fly Kathmandu to London.
Our scheduled flight back to the UK arrives in London Heathrow early evening.

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by very experienced mountain leaders. In selecting suitable leaders, our prime concern is that they have an excellent personal track-record of climbing at high altitudes...read more about leaders.

Team Composition

The team will comprise a western leader, together with up to 12 members. Depending on team numbers, another western leader may be appointed. There will also be several Nepalese climbing Sherpas, selected from our regular high altitude team. Together with the leader, they will lead roped groups so that there are no more than 3 climbers with each leader or Sherpa.

Experience Required

Lhakpa Ri is graded 2B.

With the exception of the summit day on Lhakpa Ri, this expedition is a trek, though the remoteness (especially in August when no teams are on Everest) and altitude make it a committing undertaking. Tibet, with its incessant wind, is a tough place to be. While Lhakpa Ri is not technically difficult, the environment is challenging. Even though the carefully planned itinerary provides time for acclimatisation, the extreme altitude may be a problem for slow acclimatisers. For this reason, participants need to have been to altitudes of 5,000m before and be reasonably confident that they are able to acclimatise in the time available. For most people, this should not be a problem, but if you have had difficulty acclimatising before, you may not be able to reach advance base camp at 6,400m, which is notorious for high altitude sickness.

To join the Lhakpa Ri expedition, team members need:

Those joining the North Col Extension (Grade '3B') need the following additional experience:

If you have not done any such mountaineering before, a Scottish Winter Course or an Alpine course would be a good starting point.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go 'self-led' with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!