MakaluAltitude 8,463m/27,765ft » Duration 60 Days » Grade 5E
An expedition to climb the fifth highest mountain in the world via the North Face and North West Ridge[more]
 Makalu Photo: © Adele Pennington
Introduction"While standing on top of Everest, I looked across the valley, towards the other great peak, Makalu, and mentally worked out a route about how it could be climbed… it showed me that, even though I was standing on top of the world, it wasn’t the end of everything for me, by any means. I was still looking beyond to other interesting challenges." Edmund HillaryFor Spring 2011, we are planning an expedition to the North Side of Makalu, the route taken by the French on the first ascent in 1955 and climbed by the British Services Makalu Expedition in 2008. At 8,463m, Makalu is the world's 5th highest mountain and this will be 7th of the 14 8,000m peaks, which we will attempt. The mountain has had less than 300 ascents by individual climbers and fewer than 10 British ascents. Attempting to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a step above many other 8,000m peaks. Just 22Km east of Everest and 80Km west of Kangchenjunga, Makalu (meaning "great black") has a distinctive pyramid shape, with its South East and North Western ridges being most prominent. The latter provides the 'normal' route of ascent for the majority of climbers attempting the summit. From a base camp at the foot of the Chago Glacier, we will use 5 camps on the mountain, including Camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,400m and a high camp on the North Face at approximately 7,600m. Jagged Globe leader, Adele Pennington, climbed to 8,300m on Makalu's North Ridge in Spring 2009, whilst on the South East Ridge, leader and Operations Manager, Matt Parkes joined the British Services attempt, reaching c7,500m. This itinerary is based on their experience of the trek in and of the mountain itself...read more
Experience RequiredThe Makalu expedition is suitable for experienced mountaineers with previous 8,000m climbing experience. To join us on Makalu, you need to be fully conversant with mountaineering techniques, ideally, having completed Alpine climbs equivalent to AD and Scottish Grade III/IV.This expedition is graded 5E... read more about grades Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.
Team CompositionRobert Mads Anderson will lead our 2011 Makalu expedition. Robert will be assisted by additional expedition leaders, depending on numbers and will be supported by a number of hand-picked Sherpas... read more about leaders
Expedition ItineraryDay 1: Depart London. For those joining the expedition in the UK, fly London to Kathmandu on Jet Airways via Delhi... read more
Pre-Expedition MeetingPrior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales... read more
EquipmentTo join the Makalu expedition you need the following specialist equipment... read moreWe have a comprehensive Equipment Hire Service
Additional InformationIf you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:
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To get the most from your expedition, Jagged Globe offer courses to make sure you have all the skills and the fitness you need [more]
Other Trips at this Grade
These expeditions have a similar grade and might also suit you. For more information on grading [click here]
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