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Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

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Mera Peak

Altitude 6,476m/21,246ft » Duration 24 Days » Grade 2A

An ascent of Nepal's highest trekking peak in a compact three-week adventure

Introduction

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, which is climbable by people without mountaineering experience. It is situated on the edge of the famous Khumbu region, which is dominated by Mount Everest. Although very high, Mera is a straightforward climb and is frequently ascended by groups and individuals whose only climbing qualifications are that they are fit and have an out-going sense of adventure.

This special expedition to Mera is designed for those who only have three working weeks' holiday time available. The first fourteen days take us south from the airstrip at Lukla, trekking through beautiful forested hillsides and over several passes before climbing up to the Mera La. After the climb, we descend directly to Lukla via the Zatrwa La pass.

The Mera Expedition is a high-altitude trek and climb and participants need to be fit and conversant with the use of an ice-axe and crampons. Instruction in the use of these will be given at our base camp near the Mera La if required. In good conditions it is possible for a fit party to reach the summit and return to base camp in one day. It is normal, however, to establish a high-camp at 19,000ft/5,800m on the Mera Glacier, in order to shorten the summit day. This is a rewarding experience as it provides glorious views of Nepal and a vista that takes in Kangchenjunga and Makalu to the east and Everest appearing over the massive southern aspect of Nuptse and Lhotse to the north. To the west stand the spires of Ama Dablam and Kang Taiga and in the distance is the mighty bastion of Cho Oyu. This is a fine panorama of many of the world's highest peaks.

The climb itself takes the north face glacier in a steady rise to the summit ridge which leads, in an exposed and exciting situation, to the top. After the mountain has been climbed, we return by a direct route across a dramatic ridge to Lukla and the flight to Kathmandu.

A Different Expedition Experience

Our expedition to Mera Peak is a complete Nepalese mountaineering adventure. We avoid the usual route to the mountain as we prefer to follow a more esoteric, wilderness trek than that used by others. Our trek to the foot of the mountain takes us through the Nepalese countryside, visiting remote farming communities before crossing steep valleys and then following a high ridge, with magnificent views, towards our final goal.

However, we have not just chosen this route for the views and to provide you with an enhanced cultural experience. The route we follow allows for a far better rate of acclimatisation than the rapid ascent from Lukla and over the high pass of the Zatrwa La inherent in the average expedition schedule. The benefits offered by our route have been proven many times since 1993 when we ran our first trip to Mera; our teams repeatedly achieve a high rate of success on the mountain, as they are better prepared in terms of acclimatisation and fitness. We also think that our team members value the relative solitude of our trek as this lends itself far better to an enriching wilderness experience. It is by far the best route to the mountain.

Since we began operations to the world's greatest mountains, we have continually monitored the performance of our expeditions and the conditions that each team has encountered once in country and on the mountain. This extends to every aspect of our operations, from the format of the pre-expedition weekend to the conditions of employment for our locally enrolled staff, including Sherpas and porters.

Following a review in 1998, we extended the itinerary by two further days. This was for two reasons. Firstly, it allows us to match the dates for the expedition to the flight schedules offered by Qatar Airlines without increasing the number of working weeks infringed upon by taking part in the trip. Using Qatar represents a significant change and an improvement to the Nepal flight's service that we have offered in the past. The previous airline we used, provided the only direct flight to Kathmandu but it was becoming increasingly unreliable; every expedition in one previous season left London late by several hours resulting in lost days on the main part of the expedition. The decision was made, therefore, to change airlines for the majority of our trips to Nepal. Not only has Qatar proved to be more reliable and efficient but the standard of in-flight service also represents a significant enhancement on what was being offered before. The second advantage of lengthening the itinerary is that we can provide an even better day-to-day itinerary for the expedition. This gives the team greater flexibility in case of adverse weather and allows for a better chance of reaching the summit should such conditions persist.

Jagged Globe on Mera Peak

Our aim is to provide you with a safe, enjoyable and successful expedition to Nepal. This remarkable Himalayan country is the centrepiece of our worldwide activities and we provide all of our climbers with a smooth and efficient service to maximise both your enjoyment and your chances of a successful climb. The benefits of climbing Mera Peak with Jagged Globe are:

Additional benefits include:

We are here to make your climb a great and memorable experience, so why not join us for your Himalayan adventure!

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London to Kathmandu
Our flight to Nepal departs London Heathrow in the evening.
Day 2:Arrive Kathmandu
We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a delightful garden hotel situated away from the bustle of the city centre. It is possible to hire bicycles here, which enable the shops and bazaars of the city centre to be reached in 10 minutes or so.
Day 3:Fly to Lukla, trek to Poyan (2,800m)
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Poyan (2,800m).
Day 4:Pangkongma (2,846m)
After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m). Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.
Day 5:Nashing Dingma (2,600m)
With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma (2,600m). We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park.
Day 6:Chalem Kharka (3,600m)
Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka (3,600m), set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.
Day 7:Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)
Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka (4,200m).
Day 8:Rest day at Chunbu Kharka
Today, we have a well-earned rest day. Whether you take it easy and relax, or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a useful aid to acclimatisation.
Day 9:Descent into the Hinku Valley
We set off from Chunbu Kharka and contour around the main Hinku valley before making a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron. We eventually arrive on the valley floor and witness the incredible devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley floor has been torn to pieces, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there was an ancient forest. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed. This is a short day and we can spend the afternoon exploring the rather extreme terrain!
Day 10:Tangnag (4,360m)
Today, we follow the dry riverbed up the valley to Tangnag (4,360m). We have a tricky river crossing, using a fallen log to balance our way over the fast flowing water. Having crossed to the north side of the river, we continue until we can climb onto the grassy bank and easier walking! A magnificent, towering mountain, rather unimaginatively known by its survey name of Peak 39, dominates the head of the valley. The trail now leads steadily up the side of the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley. Finally, we reach Tangnag, which has grown into a small hamlet of tea-shops and a lodge since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal.
Day 11:Dig Kharka (4,650m)
We now walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka (4,650m), close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier. This is a pleasant, grassy camp in an impressive situation.
Day 12:Acclimatisation day at Dig Kharka
This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile trip onto the glacier (5,100m). An "ecole de glace" will provide members with the opportunity to brush up on their cramponing and ice axe technique. We will have our first day on snow tomorrow as we cross the Mera La.
Day 13:Mera Peak base camp (5,300m)
Today we climb up to the Mera La (5,400m). This is an exciting day as we climb onto the Mera Glacier and follow it to the pass. This is in a superb high mountain setting and is a worthwhile objective in itself. We establish our base camp on the far side of the pass, so as to avoid sleeping on ice. The descent from the pass to the campsite is very short and can be done easily using the margin between the moraine and the glacier on its northern side as it descends from the col.
Day 14:Acclimatisation at Mera Peak BC
This is another acclimatisation day (at 5,300m), in final preparation for the climb tomorrow. Not only do we acclimatise further, we use the day to best advantage with a snow and ice training session on the snout of the glacier that descends from the Mera La. This "ecole de glace" provides essential skills training in the use of ice axe and crampons in readiness for the climb.
Day 15:Move to high camp (5,800m)
Today, we make the climb to the high camp. This is located at about 5,800 metres on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. There is no need to make an early start but we must get our equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help with carrying this and the camp stores to the high camp. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is reached. Under normal conditions these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. This camp is in an excellent setting with wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains.
Day 16:Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m/21,246ft)
The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually and much will depend on snow and general weather conditions. The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the highest is our objective. We reach this by following a classic snow-ridge to just below the final wall that guards the top. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb this last 50 metres. Your reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey the magnificent panorama from the top. After taking pictures and enjoying the view, we descend by the same route back to our campsite below the Mera La.
Day 17:Extra day
This is a spare day to allow for bad weather or for additional summit attempts.
Day 18-21:Return to Lukla
The direct route back to Lukla can be comfortably achieved in 4 days. It crosses the exciting Zatrwa La pass (4,600m) before descending steeply into the Dudh Kosi valley and to Lukla. The pass gives plenty of opportunities for photographing the dramatic peaks around Mera. On arrival in Lukla we can relax, visit tea shops and bars, and prepare for tomorrow's flight to Kathmandu.
Day 22:Fly to Kathmandu
The hair-raising take-off is followed by a 45 minute flight back to Kathmandu, where we arrive in the morning. Here we will be taken to the familiar Summit Hotel and its welcoming hospitality. The afternoon is free to get cleaned up and take a trip into Kathmandu, before the group's final evening meal together at one of the restaurants in the city.
Day 23:At leisure in Kathmandu
After a day of sightseeing and shopping, we have a late evening departure from Kathmandu.
Day 24:Arrive London
We arrive back at London Heathrow mid-morning.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Mera Peak: Mera Peak altitude profile, 11 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

Expedition leaders are supported by a local Sherpa team who have climbed Mera Peak many times before.

Experience Required

Mera Peak is graded 2A.

Whilst the mountain poses little technical difficulty, at 6,476m, it is a strenuous climb with some short, steeper sections of 35° snow. Ice axe and crampons are required and previous experience of their use is recommended, although not mandatory. A glacier skills training session is built into the itinerary.

To join the Mera Peak expedition and have a good chance of success, you must be:

It is preferable that you have:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation and would provide an ideal build-up to Mera Peak.

Porter Protection

Any trek or expedition to Nepal relies on the hard work of local porters. It is their carrying of our supplies and baggage that makes a journey into the mountains possible. Jagged Globe is therefore careful to ensure that they are well treated, not exploited and have good protection from the elements. We work closely with our Nepal based partner, Kit Spencer to provide shelter, clothing and footwear that match the severity of the environment. Porters who become sick are treated with the same care and attention as team members, and we have used helicopters, at our expense, to rescue porters from hazardous situations.

In the upper Hinku Valley at Khare, which is a small hamlet, located at the foot of Mera Peak, Jagged Globe has helped establish and fund a porter aid post. There are other aid posts dotted around the Himalaya, but not in this remote valley, where there has been an increasing number of porters assisting teams on Mera Peak. We are pleased to report that an aid post was up and running in the post-monsoon season of 2007 and staffed by a medically trained Nepali. Additional training was to be given by British Doctor, Nick Mason, who visited with a Jagged Globe team. Any porters in the area who are in need of medical assistance will, we hope, benefit from the aid post, whether or not they are working for Jagged Globe.

Jagged Globe supports the work of the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), and provides help and advice to those organisations to improve the working conditions of the porters on whom we depend. All trekkers are asked to provide feedback on porters' working conditions in post-trip questionnaires.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Mera you need the following specialist equipment:

All other equipment is as needed on a normal high altitude trek. A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!