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Mountaineering Expeditions

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Mexican Volcanoes

Altitude 5,700m/18,700ft » Duration 16 Days » Grade 2A

Ascents of three attractive volcanoes in Mexico, including Orizaba - the country's highest

Introduction

This expedition is a fine introduction to mountaineering at higher altitudes for those with limited time. In just over two weeks, we climb three major summits and explore some of the interesting culture of Mexico. If you are looking for a 'first' expedition, or a superb mountaineering holiday, this could be it.

The trip begins with a visit to the Teotihuacan Pyramids, before an acclimatisation hike around the crater lakes to the summit of Nevado de Toluca (4,691m). We then transfer to a camp below Iztaccihuatl (or "Izta" as it is known), which is located 50 miles southeast of Mexico City. In Aztec mythology Izta means 'sleeping lady' and different features on the mountain are named after various female body parts! At 5,260m this extinct volcano is Mexico's third highest mountain. It is an immensely interesting peak, with snow, ice, rock and a superb long ridge. After our ascent of Izta, we visit the fascinating cultural centre of Puebla, before arriving at Orizaba (5,746m). Orizaba is the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest mountain in North America. It is a perfectly conical shaped volcano dripping with glaciers, which we have an excellent success rate on, partly due to using a high camp at 4,900m. To round off this short trip, we spend a day sight seeing in Mexico City.

The volcanoes are very accessible and the climbing is technically moderate (Scottish Grade 1) in this programme. Therefore team members need to have completed Grade 1 scrambles and have some crampon and ice axe experience. Our Introductory Winter Mountaineering course in Scotland and our Scrambling course in Snowdonia, would serve as excellent preparation.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Mexico City
Our BA flight departs from London Heathrow in the early afternoon and arrives the same evening. The time in Mexico City is 6 hours behind GMT. Mexico City is also known as 'Tenochtiylan' and was the capital of the Aztec Empire for nearly 200 years until the Spanish conquest in 1519, when it was captured by Captain Hernan Cortez. Many of its pyramids and Aztec remains still stand, but much was destroyed by the Spanish armies. It is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of 8.5 million and is located at an altitude of 2,240 metres. After our long flight, we are ready for a good night's sleep in our hotel.
Day 2:Visit Teotihuacan Pyramids
Just 50km northeast of the capital, Teotihuacán was Mexico's biggest ancient city and the capital of the country's largest pre-Hispanic empire, boasting 200,000 inhabitants at its peak in the 6th century. The site's famous Avenue of the Dead is a monumental 2km thoroughfare lined with the former palaces of Teotihuacán's elite. To its south is the pyramid-bedecked La Ciudadela, believed to have been the residence of the city's supreme ruler. Enclosed within the citadel's walls is the Quetzalcóatl Temple, with its striking serpent carvings. Heading north, the avenue passes the world's third-largest pyramid: the awe-inspiring, 70m, 248-stepped Pyramid of the Sun. The pyramid was originally painted a suitably sun-drenched, bloody red. The avenue terminates at the Pyramid of the Moon, flanked by the 12 temple platforms of the Plaza de la Luna. Nearby are the beautifully frescoed Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly, the Jaguar Palace and the Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells. Teotihuacán's most famous mural, the Paradise of Tláloc, is in the Tepantitla Palace, a priest's residence northeast of the Pyramid of the Sun. The site also has a museum. After a full day of sightseeing, we return to our hotel in Mexico City.
Day 3-4:Nevado de Toluca
Today we leave the city and drive in 4-wheel drive vehicles 110km down the highway to Nevado de Toluca. The volcano, which last erupted 3300 years ago, has a crater with two lagoons, called the 'sun' and the 'moon', where archaeological remains have been found in the past. The lakes are extremely cold, but divers who are brave enough can sometimes be seen in the lagoons. We spend two nights camped at c3,500m to begin our acclimatisation.
Day 5:Ascent Nevado de Toluca (4,691m)
This is Mexico's fourth highest mountain and an excellent peak to acclimatise on. The route follows a rocky trail, before the exciting scramble around the summit crater. This has been described as similar in quality to the Snowdon Horseshoe. Overall, the climb to the summit should take roughly 4 hours.
Day 6:Travel to Iztaccihuatl
Iztaccihuatl ("Izta") is located roughly 65 kilometres Southeast of Mexico City. From our camp on Nevado de Toluca, we travel to La Joya camp at the base of Izta. The name Iztaccihuatl is Aztec for "White Woman" and has its origins in an ancient legend in which Iztaccihuatl and Popcatepetl (a nearby volcano - Mexico's second highest) were once lovers, but were turned into mountains after displeasing the gods. Iztaccihuatl was turned into a mountain without life and Popcatepetl was given eternal life. This curse means that he must gaze upon the extinct form of his beloved Izta forever. His anguish is to blame for the rumblings of the earth!

In keeping with the legend, many locals recognise that the mountain's prominent features resemble the features of a woman sleeping on her back, particularly when seen from the west. There are mountain features, which correspond to the hair, head, ear, neck, breast, stomach, knees and feet. When discussing the mountain, local guides and climbers use these anatomical terms in reference to key landmarks and climbing routes. Our base camp is at 3,900m on the edge of a pine forest.

Day 7:High camp on Izta
We use either the La Arista del Sol (Ridge of the Sun) route or the Glacier de Ayoloco route to climb Izta, depending on the weather conditions and the strength of our team. The Ridge of the Sun is often referred to as "the knees" route and is the standard route on the mountain. There are several approaches to "the knees", from which one follows the south ridge over several false summits to "the breast", which is Izta's summit. The Glacier de Ayoloco was the most likely the route of first ascent (although James de Salis's 1889 summit ascent was the first on record, archaeological evidence indicates that the mountain was previously climbed by Aztec and earlier cultures). This a more direct route up the west side of the mountain, joining the Artista del Sol route on the upper south ridge. The glacier itself includes crevasses and small ice cliffs, but these can be passed easily.

Whichever route we decide to climb, today, we move to a camp higher on the mountain at around 4,725m. It should take approximately 4 hours to make this ascent.

Day 8:Ascent of Izta (5,260m)
It is an 8 to 10 hour day to make the climb to the summit and back down to the road head. We'll need to start early in the morning whichever route we decide upon. From the summit, the views are superb across to Popcatepetl (previously a popular peak to climb until it starting erupting again), Mexico State, Puebla, and Mexico City. We descend all the way back down the mountain and drive out to a relaxing hacienda at Amecameca village for hot showers and a rewarding evening meal.
Day 9:Rest day
Amecameca village serves as the gateway to the pass between Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl. This is a well-deserved rest day spent in our hacienda in the village.
Day 10:Travel to Orizaba
We travel approximately 150 kilometres by road in our 4-wheel drive vehicles and then up the flanks of Orizaba to the Piedra Grande hut, which is located at 4,230m on the north side of the volcano. We spend the night in either tents, or in the hut on the plateau just above the tree line.
Day 11:High camp on Orizaba
We put in a high camp on Orizaba, located at c4,900m. After packing up, we make the straightforward climb to this higher 'jump' position where we can spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing before tomorrow's ascent.
Day 12:Ascent of Orizaba (5,746m)
A pre-dawn start is needed to reach the summit before snow conditions deteriorate in the midday sun. The route follows the Glacier de Jamapa, which is a straightforward slope at an average angle of 30°. We rope up as there are occasional crevasses and sometimes conditions can be quite icy. The route goes through a rock ravine and traverses below a band of rock before reaching the crater rim. From here, we follow the edge of the crater round to the summit, which is marked by a cross. The views across the Gulf of Mexico to the east and the central plateau to the west are quite breathtaking. After spending some time on the summit, we descend back down to Piedra Grande hut. The climb and descent should take 8 to 10 hours in total.
Day 13:Spare day in case of bad weather
Day 14:Return drive to Mexico City
In the morning, we drive back through rural Mexico to our hotel in the city. We can spend the afternoon showering and generally relaxing after the previous day's climb. In the evening, we go out for a celebratory meal.
Day 15:Depart Mexico City
There is time for a full day of sightseeing. We take in Mexico City's wonderful collection of colonial buildings from the Spanish era, epic murals by the likes of Rivera, Orozco and Siquieras and excellent museums of art and archaeology. Our flight home leaves Mexico City late in the evening. Hasta Leugo, Amigo! Alternatively, you can extend your stay by two days and return on the Saturday.
Day 16:Arrive UK
The flight arrives back at London Heathrow in the early afternoon.

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Mexican Volcanoes: Mexican Volcanoes altitude profile, 14 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

All our expeditions are led by experienced mountaineers. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The Jagged Globe leader is supported by our local Mexican guides, who have climbed the volcanoes many times before.

Experience Required

Mexican Volcanoes is graded 2A.

The Mexican Volcanoes itinerary is suitable for those with basic crampon and ice axe experience, such as that gained on an Introductory Winter Mountaineering course or Alpine Introduction course. If you have completed a previous strenuous trek such as the Western Breach route on Kilimanjaro, this is a good first experience of glaciated terrain on higher peaks.

To have a good chance of success on the volcanoes, you need:

For more information and advice about how to gain the skills to join this expedition, please contact the Jagged Globe office.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Mexico you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!