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Muztag Ata

Altitude 7,546m/24,757ft » Duration 30 Days » Grade 2D

A popular 7,000m peak in the Chinese Pamir and excellent preparation for an 8,000er

Introduction

The huge dome of Muztag Ata offers mountaineers and ski mountaineers a chance to climb an exceptionally high mountain by a very straightforward route. Overlooking China's vast Takla Makan Desert, it is a popular objective with teams from continental Europe and is an ideal stepping stone on the way to attempting an 8,000m peak. Jagged Globe is usually the only UK-based operator on the mountain and we have been successful with members reaching the top on seven of our previous expeditions.

The climb is long and tiring but technically easy and the backdrop, across the Pamir, Kun Lun and the Karakoram, is stunning. On the climb we use three camps and some load carrying is required. We therefore recommend that applicants have previous experience on peaks higher than 6,000m. In recent years we have brought in Sherpa or Pakistani High Altitude Porter support, to assist with load carrying on the mountain. We have found that this has helped team members greatly on what is a physically very arduous expedition.

Typically this expedition would fly to Islamabad and then drive to the mountain on the spectacular Karakoram Highway, crossing the 4,730m Kunjerab Pass. In 2003, we travelled to the mountain via Bishkek and the Torugart Pass, which has been described as "the most exciting route into Central Asia". This is how we will reach the mountain in 2010, as the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office currently advises against travel on certain sections of the Karakoram Highway. The expedition will still include a visit to Kashgar, and have the same amount of time to climb the mountain.

The Mountain

Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Xinjiang Province of China. It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. The snowy ramparts of Muztag Ata rise from a remote corner of the central Asian plateau, close to where the borders of China, Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan meet. The only sizable settlement in the area is the fabled 'silk route' city of Kashgar some 160km to the north. Smaller habitations lie astride the main roads, while nomadic Kirghiz tribes people roam the vast rolling plains with their camels and horses.

Muztag Ata is probably the least technical 7,500m mountain in the world. An early attempt by Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman in 1947 was thwarted by deep snow. They ploughed a furrow to within 70 metres of the summit before being turned back. It was eventually climbed in 1956 by a large Sino-Russian expedition, which placed a total of 31 climbers on the summit. Three years later, even this success was topped when 33 members of a Chinese expedition climbed it, 8 of whom were women. The first ski ascent of Muztag Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette and Galen Rowell.

The Climb

We use three camps above Base Camp (BC). The first camp is close to the permanent snow line. We will use pack animals or local porters to transport all expedition supplies to Camp 1. Above this point we will have additional help carrying loads on the mountain from staff that we shall bring to China from either Pakistan or Nepal. However, all team members will also need to participate in load carrying between camps. In addition to putting the necessary supplies in place, this also provides essential acclimatisation and fitness for the summit attempt. A fit and competent party can expect to complete the ascents between camps in 4-5 hrs. We aim to start out each day soon after dawn to complete the journey before the hottest part of the day.

Camp 1 is at about 5,400m: a steep, stony ascent from BC and right on the edge of the glaciers that blanket the upper 2,000m of the mountain. It is a wonderful eyrie with extensive views over pastures, hills, desert, the blue waters of Lake Karakol and the white ice cliffs of Kongur.

From Camp 1, the route is a steady ascent up a snowy and sometimes icy slope, through an area of crevasses and then negotiating a small 'valley' in the glacier; this is the steepest part of the whole route. The ice scenery is awesome and a striking contrast with the brown land beyond. Above the 'valley', a long and unrelenting ascent leads up to the site of Camp 2, a small shelf in the glacier at about 6,100m. There will probably be 2 or 3 ascents to Camp 2, carrying loads for this camp and the one above. This helps acclimatisation and increases our familiarity with the mountain.

It is possible to place a camp virtually anywhere on the upper part of the mountain. The choice of where to site camps will be made by the leaders taking into account prevailing conditions and the activities of other parties on the mountain. In some recent years, the next camp has been placed at 6,450m: Camp 2 and a half! It is more normal to use a camp 3 at 6,800m which substantially reduces the length of the summit day. Issues such as; acclimatisation, load carrying, snow conditions, sleeping comfort and average group speed will be taken into consideration when deciding what approach to use.

The route to the summit is straightforward. From 6,800m-7,400m a long, gradual slope slowly eases becoming gentler and gentler. Finally, with the ground appearing almost level, the small rise to the summit rocks appears. Beyond is the huge abyss of the east side of the mountain and all around is the vast emptiness of Central Asia, interrupted only by the high, white ridges of Kongur and the snowy peaks of the Pamirs. In clear conditions, the high peaks of the Karakoram can be seen to the south. The climb to the top should take 5 to 7 hrs form camp 3.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London to Bishkek
Day 2:Arrive Bishkek, drive to Tash Rabat
We are met at the airport by a private bus which leaves immediately for the long drive East towards the Chinese border. After passing the city of Naryn the road starts climbing into the foothills of the At Bashy Range. Leaving the main road in the late afternoon we make a short detour to reach the historic caravanserai at Tash Rabat (c3,000m). Here we spend the night in a comfortable yurt encampment.
Day 3:Drive to Kashgar
The bus sets off early in the morning for the 100km climb to Chinese frontier. The road crosses two mountain passes, giving views over the Fergana Range before reaching the top of the 3,752m Torugart Pass. This journey has been called 'the most exiting route into Central Asia'. At the top of the pass we say goodbye to our Kyrgyz guide and transfer to a Chinese bus for the descent into the Chinese province of Xinjiang. The landscape changes from dry dusty hillsides to irrigated, tree lined farmland on the 160km drive to Kashgar.
Day 4:Rest day in Kashgar
After two days on the road we have a full day to rest and look around this fascinating oasis city located on the historic silk route. Modern Kashgar is actually two cities which coexist in a sometimes surreal juxtaposition of the ancient and modern. The population is split into two very different communities: Uyghur Muslims and Han Chinese. During a full day of sightseeing we will visit the Id kah Mosque, the Akbar Hoja tomb, the old town and bazaar, the famous 'Sunday' market, and the sights of modern Chinese Kashgar including the huge statue of Mao towering above People's park.
Day 5:Drive to Lake Karakol
Leaving Kashgar the road continues over a large fertile plane before climbing a steep and narrow river gorge into more mountainous terrain. The road passes Mt Kongur and we get our first sight of the great bulk of Muztag Ata. Ahead lie the massive ice-capped ridges of the peak, suspended above deep glacier-filled gorges that are typical of this side of the mountain. We should also be able to pick out our route to the summit. We spend the night in either "yurts" or tents on the shore of the turquoise waters of Lake Karakol (3,600m). This is a magic spot - Muztag Ata to the right, the great wall of Kongur ahead, across the lake, and passing horsemen and wandering camels close at hand.
Day 6:Trek to base camp
A short drive takes us to Subashi (3,850m) where we meet our camels and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the team's equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to base camp, a 3-4 hour walk. Drifts of alpine flowers clothe the slopes as base camp is approached and screeching marmots call a welcome!
Day 7:Preparations at base camp
Base Camp is at an altitude of 4,450m so time is needed for adaptation to the altitude. This grassy site is tucked in between a moraine and the foot of the steeper slopes of the mountain - a great place to relax now, and recover later! This is the time to enjoy some excellent fresh food from the flaming woks of the base camp staff! All equipment and food receives final checks and the group prepares loads for carrying up the mountain.
Day 8 - 25:Ascent of Muztag Ata
We have up to 18 days to climb Muztag Ata. During this time team members will be expected to make 3-4 trips to Camp 1, 2-3 trips to Camp 2 plus 1-2 trips to Camp 3 and a summit bid. Clients will need to be sufficiently fit and determined to put in this amount of work if they want to have a good chance of summit success.
Day 26:Base camp to Kashgar
After a short walk down to the road we say goodbye to our camels and load all our equipment onto a bus for the journey back to Kashgar. After pausing for a final look at the mountain, and a few last photographs, we set off on the drive back to Kashgar and a welcome hot shower in our hotel.
Day 27:Drive to Tash Rabat
Return journey over the Torugart Pass.
Day 28:Drive Tash Rabat to Bishkek
Day 29:At leisure in Bishkek
Day 30:Fly Bishkek toLondon

PLEASE NOTE:The above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. While we will make every effort to adhere to it, changes may be forced for reasons beyond our control. When traveling to remote locations such as this, a flexible approach from all members is much appreciated.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Muztag Ata: Muztag Ata altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Skis or Snow Shoes?

In the late summer snow conditions on Muztag Ata are often quite good, and a firm surface underfoot is not unusual. With several other teams active on the mountain there should be a good trail between camps. It is normal for most of the climbing on the mountain to be done wearing boots and crampons. However snowfall can obscure the trail and make progress difficult. Most groups come equipped with either snowshoes of skis to help cope with these conditions. Skis are popular for experienced ski mountaineers, who are able to ski in control in all snow types, sometimes carrying heavy loads. Indeed, Muztag Ata is perfectly suited for a ski ascent and the mountain is probably the most popular 7,000er for skiers.

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by very experienced mountain leaders. In selecting suitable leaders, our prime concern is that they have an excellent personal track-record of climbing at high altitudes...read more about leaders.

Team Composition

The Muztag Ata expedition will be led by an experienced Jagged Globe leader. We intend to bring a suitable number of High Altitude Porters from Pakistan to assist team members with load carrying on the mountain. Base camp staff are supplied by the Chinese Mountaineering Association.

Experience Required

Muztag Ata is graded 2D.

Muztag Ata is a technically straightforward mountain, but one which requires stamina and determination to cope with long arduous days.

All those wishing to join the expedition and have a good chance of success should have:

Notes for Skiers
Those joining the expedition with the intention of skiing the mountain must be competent and experienced ski mountaineers. A minimum requirement would be several weeks of sustained ski tours in the Alps over a period of years, including continuous days in excess of 8hrs and daily ascents/descents of more than 1,000m. Experience of skiing wearing a heavy rucksac is essential. If you have completed the Haute Route (taking in the Plateau de Couloir and Pigne d'Arolla, for example) skied to the summit of Mont Blanc, Elbrus or similar and wish to take your mountain skiing experience a step further, then you could consider using skis on this expedition.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking.

PHD Mountain Software make specialist clothing suitable for this expedition. Visit the Muztag Ata page of their Trip Advisor.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go 'self-led' with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!