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Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

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Muztag Ata

Altitude 7,546m/24,757ft » Duration 30 Days » Grade 2D

A popular 7,000m peak in the Chinese Pamir and excellent preparation for an 8,000er

Introduction

The huge dome of Muztag Ata offers experienced climbers a chance to climb an exceptionally high mountain by a very straightforward route. Overlooking China's vast Takla Makan Desert, it is a popular objective with teams from continental Europe and is an ideal stepping stone on the way to attempting an 8,000m peak. Jagged Globe is usually the only UK-based operator on the mountain and we have been successful with members reaching the top on seven of our previous expeditions. In 2008, we are also able to reduce the cost of this trip.

The climb is long and tiring but technically easy and the backdrop, across the Pamir, Kun Lun and the Karakoram, is stunning. On the climb we use three camps and some load carrying is required. We therefore recommend that applicants have previous experience on peaks higher than 6,000m.

New flight connections enable us to offer an improved itinerary for 2007. From Islamabad we drive to the mountain on the spectacular Karakoram Highway, crossing the 4,730m Kunjerab Pass. After the ascent we visit the fabled city of Kashgar from where we fly back to Islamabad.

The Mountain

Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Xinjiang Province of China. It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. The snowy ramparts of Muztag Ata rise from a remote corner of the central Asian plateau, close to where the borders of China, Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan meet. The only sizable settlement in the area is the fabled 'silk route' city of Kashgar some 160km to the north. Smaller habitations lie astride the main roads, while nomadic Kirghiz tribes people roam the vast rolling plains with their camels and horses.

Muztag Ata is probably the least technical 7,500m mountain in the world. An early attempt by Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman in 1947 was thwarted by deep snow. They ploughed a furrow to within 70 metres of the summit before being turned back. It was eventually climbed in 1956 by a large Sino-Russian expedition, which placed a total of 31 climbers on the summit. Three years later, even this success was topped when 33 members of a Chinese expedition climbed it, 8 of whom were women. The first ski ascent of Muztag Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette and Galen Rowell.

The Climb

We use three camps above Base Camp (BC). The first camp is close to the permanent snow line. We will use pack animals or local porters to transport all expedition supplies to Camp 1. Above this point we will have additional help carrying loads on the mountain from staff that we shall bring to China from either Pakistan or Nepal. However, all team members will also need to participate in load carrying between camps. In addition to putting the necessary supplies in place, this also provides essential acclimatisation and fitness for the summit attempt. A fit and competent party can expect to complete the ascents between camps in 4-5 hrs. We aim to start out each day soon after dawn to complete the journey before the hottest part of the day.

Camp 1 is at about 5,400m: a steep, stony ascent from BC and right on the edge of the glaciers that blanket the upper 2,000m of the mountain. It is a wonderful eyrie with extensive views over pastures, hills, desert, the blue waters of Lake Karakol and the white ice cliffs of Kongur.

From Camp 1, the route is a steady ascent up a snowy and sometimes icy slope, through an area of crevasses and then negotiating a small 'valley' in the glacier; this is the steepest part of the whole route. The ice scenery is awesome and a striking contrast with the brown land beyond. Above the 'valley', a long and unrelenting ascent leads up to the site of Camp 2, a small shelf in the glacier at about 6,100m. There will probably be 2 or 3 ascents to Camp 2, carrying loads for this camp and the one above. This helps acclimatisation and increases our familiarity with the mountain.

It is possible to place a camp virtually anywhere on the upper part of the mountain. The choice of where to site camps will be made by the leaders taking into account prevailing conditions and the activities of other parties on the mountain. In some recent years, the next camp has been placed at 6,450m: Camp 2 and a half! It is more normal to use a camp 3 at 6,800m which substantially reduces the length of the summit day. Issues such as; acclimatisation, load carrying, snow conditions, sleeping comfort and average group speed will be taken into consideration when deciding what approach to use.

The route to the summit is straightforward. From 6,800m-7,400m a long, gradual slope slowly eases becoming gentler and gentler. Finally, with the ground appearing almost level, the small rise to the summit rocks appears. Beyond is the huge abyss of the east side of the mountain and all around is the vast emptiness of Central Asia, interrupted only by the high, white ridges of Kongur and the snowy peaks of the Pamirs. In clear conditions, the high peaks of the Karakoram can be seen to the south. The climb to the top should take 5 to 7 hrs form camp 3.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Islamabad
Direct flight from London/Birmingham/Manchester to Islamabad
Day 2:Sightseeing in Islamabad and Rawalpindi
Our flight lands in Islamabad in the early morning and we then have a full day to look around the twin cities of Islamabad (the modern capital) and Rawalpindi (the older city). The colourful street markets of Rawalpindi's Raja Bazaar have changed little in centuries and give a flavour of the exotic Indian Subcontinent. The modern concrete buildings of Islamabad are not to everyone's taste but are evidence of Pakistan's desire to modernise.
Day 3:Drive the Karakoram Highway to Chilas
We set off in a mini-bus for the start of our drive up the Karakoram Highway. The road very quickly starts the climb up through the green foothills of the Himalaya, passing rice paddies, through busy villages and crossing high ridges. After several hours, we reach the mighty Indus River. The road now follows the Indus Gorge, often taking a high and precarious route above the river. The landscape becomes more and more arid as we approach Chilas and, with luck, there will be a view of the sun setting on Nanga Parbat. We reach Chilas after about 14 hours driving and stay overnight in a lodge/hotel.
Day 4:Drive to Gulmit
The road continues through a landscape of sand dunes, burnished rocks and huge scree slopes. Nanga Parbat blocks the horizon behind us and soon the great peaks of the Karakoram and the Hindu Kush appear ahead. We drive through occasional and incredibly lush areas of irrigated farmland and fruit orchards. Later, we pass Rakaposhi, the summit a single 5000m sweep straight up from the road! We continue through the fabled kingdom of Hunza, with rock spires and tumbling glaciers all around and ancient hilltop forts overlooking the Silk Route from China.
Day 5:Drive to China border / Cross Khunjerab Pass / Drive to Tashkurgan
After customs and passport facilities at Sost, the road climbs steeply to the high point of the Karakoram Highway, at the Khunjerab Pass (4,730m). The landscape now opens out with wide grassy valleys, dotted with yurts and roamed by herds of yaks and camels. The mountains are never far away and if the weather is clear, we enjoy our first views of Muztag Ata as we approach Tashkurgan. It is here that we meet our Chinese staff and complete immigration some 3 hours drive after entering China!
Day 6:Drive to Lake Karakol
The road meanders through a line of hills and then suddenly opens onto a plain. The great bulk of Muztag Ata is to our right and the mountains forming the border with Tadjikistan to our left. We cross a small pass and begin the descent to Karakol. To the right are the massive ice-capped ridges of Mustag Ata, suspended above deep glacier-filled gorges that are typical of this side of the mountain. We should also be able to pick out our route to the summit. We spend the night in either "yurts" or tents on the shore of the turquoise waters of Lake Karakol (3,600m). This is a magic spot, Mustag Ata to the right, the great wall of Kongur ahead, across the lake, and passing horsemen and wandering camels close at hand.
Day 7:Trek to base camp
A short drive takes us to Subashi (3,850m) where we meet our camels and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the team's equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to base camp, a 3-4 hour walk. Drifts of alpine flowers clothe the slopes as base camp is approached and screeching marmots call a welcome!
Day 8:Preparations at base camp
Base Camp is at an altitude of 4,450m so time is needed for adaptation to the altitude. This grassy site is tucked in between a moraine and the foot of the steeper slopes of the mountain - a great place to relax now, and recover later! This is the time to enjoy some excellent fresh food from the flaming woks of the base camp staff! All equipment and food receives final checks and the group prepares loads for carrying up the mountain.
Day 9 - 26:Ascent of Muztag Ata
We have up to 18 days to climb Muztag Ata. During this time team members will be expected to make 3-4 trips to Camp 1, 2-3 trips to Camp 2 plus 1-2 trips to Camp 3 and a summit bid. Clients will need to be sufficiently fit and determined to put in this amount of work if they want to have a good chance of summit success.
Day 27:Base camp to Kashgar
After a short walk down to the road we say goodbye to our camels and load all our equipment onto a bus for the journey back to Kashgar. After pausing for a final look at the mountain, and a few last photographs, we set off on the drive back to Kashgar and a welcome hot shower in our hotel.
Day 28:Sightseeing in Kashgar
A full day to rest and look around this fascinating oasis city located on the historic silk route. Modern Kashgar is actually two cities which coexist in a sometimes surreal juxtaposition of the ancient and modern. The population is split into two very different communities: Uyghur Muslims and Han Chinese. During a full day of sightseeing we will visit the Id kah Mosque, the Akbar Hoja tomb, the old town and bazaar, the famous market, and the sights of modern Chinese Kashgar including the huge statue of Mao towering above People's park.
Day 29:Fly from Kashgar to Islamabad
A morning flight from Kashgar takes us over the Karakoram Range, with possible views of K2 and Nanga Parbat in clear conditions. In the afternoon we can leave our hotel for some shopping and sightseeing, or just relax by the swimming pool.
Day 30:Fly from Islamabad to UK

PLEASE NOTE:The above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. While we will make every effort to adhere to it, changes may be forced for reasons beyond our control. When traveling to remote locations such as this, a flexible approach from all members is much appreciated.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Muztag Ata: Muztag Ata altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Skis or Snow Shoes?

In the late summer snow conditions on Muztag Ata are often quite good, and a firm surface underfoot is not unusual. With several other teams active on the mountain there should be a good trail between camps. It is normal for most of the climbing on the mountain to be done wearing simply boots and crampons. However snowfall can obscure the trail and make progress difficult. Most groups come equipped with either snowshoes of skis to help cope with these conditions. Skis are popular with groups from continental Europe where many of the clients are very experienced skiers. Previous Jagged Globe groups have successfully used both skis and snowshoes to facilitate ascents. In recent years it has been our experience that few clients from the UK have the skills and experience to use skis safely in this environment. Consequently our expeditions are planned to cater for clients who wish to ascend the mountain on foot, using snow shoes where necessary. If there are a sufficient number of suitably experienced ski mountaineers wishing to join our expedition we will be happy to offer a ski option.

Leadership

Experienced mountaineers, guides and instructors lead all of our expeditions. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but also that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The 2007 Muztag Ata expedition will be led by an experienced Jagged Globe leader. We intend to bring a suitable number of Sherpas from Nepal or High Altitude Porters from Pakistan to assist team members with load carrying on the mountain. Base camp staff are supplied by the Chinese Mountaineering Association.

Experience Required

Muztag Ata is graded 2D.

Muztag Ata is a technically straightforward mountain, but one which requires stamina and determination to cope with long arduous days.

All those wishing to join the expedition and have a good chance of success should have:

Notes for Skiers
Those joining the expedition with the intention of skiing the mountain must be competent and experienced ski-mountaineers. A minimum requirement would be several weeks of sustained ski tours in the Alps over a period of years, including continuous days in excess of 8hrs and daily ascents/descents of more than 1,000m. Experience of skiing wearing a heavy rucksac is essential. If you have completed the Haute Route (taking in the Plateau de Couloir and Pigne d'Arolla, for example) skied to the summit of Mont Blanc, Elbrus or similar and wish to take your mountain skiing experience a step further, then you could consider using skis on this expedition.

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we hold a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. This meeting will be hosted by a Jagged Globe leader who has recent experience of climbing Muztag Ata. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Muztag Ata you need the following specialist equipment

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

International Flights

Most members of our expeditions prefer to fly from London Heathrow Airport. However if suitable flights are available we are able to offer departures from some UK regional airports direct to Pakistan, at no extra cost. Once the flight schedules for 2006 are published we will know if there are suitable flights from Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow. Please contact the Jagged Globe office if you would prefer to fly from one of these airports.

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!