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Nubra First Ascents

Altitude 6,078m/19,940ft » Duration 25 Days » Grade 2B

An introductory level expedition in a wild and unspoilt range of the Indian Himalaya

Introduction

This is an expedition to a totally unspoilt range between Leh and the Nubra Valley. We organised our first expeditions to a valley near here in 2007 and returned in 2008 and 2009. Our teams named Yangchan Kangri (5,710m), Mani Kangri (5,742m) and Unnamed Peak (5,700m), as well as climbing the rarely attempted Sahib Chasa (6,078m) on these expeditions.

In 2010, Jagged Globe expedition leader, Mungo Ross, visited a valley nearby and photographed 10 separate peaks over 6,000m. In 2011, we sent two teams to the valley, though with some difficulties on their approach, the teams did not have as much time in the valley as planned. Steve Findlay's team did make the first ascent of one peak - Singh Kangri (5,900m). For 2012 we have extended the expedition by two days so that we will have a full week in the valley, all being well!

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1-2:Fly London to Delhi.
Our flight departs London in the evening and arrives at Delhi International Airport at 0900 the following morning. Local time in Delhi is 4.5 hours ahead, but hopefully we will have been able to sleep on the flight. We are met at the airport and taken to our hotel, which is very conveniently placed for sightseeing in the city. In July and August, the air-conditioning and swimming pool are always most welcome. The central location of our hotel enables you to visit the local bazaars and shops around Connaught Place. We particularly recommend the famous ice-cream bar, Nirula's, and its excellent restaurant upstairs. The extensive lawns surrounding India Gate are also nearby, with the Government Buildings at the far end.
Day 3:Fly to Leh, the capital of Ladakh
We make an early start to take the flight to Leh, the capital city of Ladakh. The flight takes us over the Greater Himalaya and makes an exciting landing at one of the highest airports in the world. We can hope to get excellent views of Stok Kangri as we fly-in and, on a clear day, the great peaks of the Karakoram are visible to the north. We are met at the airport and taken to the Kang Lha Chen. The rest of the day is at leisure. Leh is at an altitude of nearly 3,510m, and you can expect to feel the effects of the rarefied atmosphere. For the first few hours, you may be a little breathless and perhaps have a slight headache. These symptoms of altitude sickness are mild and usually disappear quite quickly, however, everyone is advised to take it easy for the first day or two. Press-ups and hill sprints are definitely taboo!
Day 4:Exploring the city of Leh
Today is your own to relax and stroll around Leh, to allow the effects of the altitude to wear off. This is an important period, which allows the body to acclimatise in preparation for the initial trek. There are plenty of distractions in Leh, varying from scenic and cultural to gastronomic. Alternatively your leader can arrange a short drive out to visit some of the fantastic monasteries that have existed here since the 11th Century. Or we can take an interesting walk through some of the surrounding farmlands, taking in the Red Fort and the impressive palace that towers above the city. The palace was modelled on the Potala Palace found in Lhasa, Tibet.
Day 5:Drive to Phyiang and begin trek
It is a 1 hour drive to Phyiang, where we begin trekking. The walk takes us up a wide-open valley in the direction of the Lasermola La (5 hours). We camp at 4,300m after a pleasant first day on the trail.
Day 6 :Trek to campsite below Lasermola La (5,000m)
The following day we walk uphill, alongside the meandering river, through meadows of beautiful flowers to reach a nice grassy campsite where we will spend two nights. The campsite is at 5,000m, so we can expect to feel the altitude and we will want to take it easy for the rest of the afternoon and the next day (5 hours).
Day 7 :Acclimatisation
Today is a day for 'active pottering', to assist our acclimatisation, before crossing the pass tomorrow.
Day 8:Cross the Lasermola Pass (5,300m)
It's a steady 2-hour walk up scree to reach the top of the pass, which is adorned with prayer flags and cairns and provides superb far-reaching views. We descend down an easy-angled glacier to eventually reach a campsite at approximately c4,900m. Alternatively, we may choose to camp further down the valley as there are other suitable spots to spend the night.
Day 9:Descend to Hundar Dok (4,200m)
This is a long day, descending all the way to Hundar Dok (8 hours).
Day 10:Trek to campsite at entrance to valley (3,600m)
It's an easier day today. We trek through Skarchen to reach our campsite at the entrance to the main valley where we will climb (5 - 6 hours).
Day 11:Trek through canyon (4,500m)
Today we climb uphill through a canyon to reach a campsite at 4,500m (8 hours).
Day 12:Trek to base camp (5,000m)
Since the main objective of this expedition is to make 1st ascents of 6,000m mountains, we want to spend as much time as possible in the valley. Base camp - a delightful site beside a small lake - is at just under 5,000m, so we will have a rest day tomorrow, scoping out some of our objectives.
Day 13:Rest day at base camp (5,000m)
Day 14 - 20:Climb previously unclimbed peaks
What we decide to climb will depend on the combination of all the usual factors - acclimatisation, weather, snow conditions and technical difficulty. There is certainly plenty to choose from for easy introductory 'shake down' days, to fine looking ridges and faces, to very demanding looking routes over mixed ground. Most of the approaches to the peaks will be up the inevitable-in-Ladakh scree slopes, which give access to the upper glacial routes to the summits. Once on the ice we would expect to be moving roped together, but we might fix ropes on slopes that are particularly steep or exposed. There are several peaks that can be attempted from base camp, but for others we may decide to move our camp further up the valley, or put up a temporary high camp.
Day 21:Return trek to Hundar
It is possible to walk back to Hundar in a day - it may be quite a long day , but the lodge in Hundar that we use has a lovely garden with flowers and apple trees, and it sells beer!
Day 22:Travel back to Leh
Drive to Leh back over the Kardong La for our celebrations and our final night in Ladakh.
Day 23:Fly Leh to Delhi.
Day 24:At leisure in Delhi.
A day to relax and wind down at the end of the expedition. For those with plenty of energy we can organise a day trip to Agra and the Taj Mahal (Please note that this is not included in the price and needs to be paid in country).
Day 25:Fly from Delhi to London.
Afternoon flight from Delhi to London.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns, landslides, river crossings, the availability of horses and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Agra Fort and Taj Mahal Day Trip

A day trip to Agra and the Taj Mahal is an optional extra for group members on Day 24 of the itinerary. It includes a tour guide for the day, all transfers, 1st class rail travel to Agra (with breakfast) and return via air-con minibus, lunch in a local hotel and the entrance price for the Taj Mahal.

This day trip can be organised by your expedition leader and the cost is payable in country.

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by very experienced mountain leaders. In selecting suitable leaders, our prime concern is that they have an excellent personal track-record of climbing at high altitudes...read more about leaders.

Team Composition

The 2012 team will be led by Steve Findlay, who will be supported by the same climbing Sherpas, cook team and local horsemen as usd on our previous expeditions to this area. Steve led one of the two expeditions to this area that we organised in 2011. He has his sights set on a number of 6,000m peaks, which he has spied.

Experience Required

Nubra First Ascents is graded 2B.

This expedition is suitable for mountaineers, with snow and ice climbing experience to Scottish Grade II or Alpine PD. We also require that you have previous experience to 6,000m. We are visiting a remote area and team members must be prepared for the rigours of trekking where there are no defined trails. The expedition would appeal to those who want to climb and name peaks over 6,000m in an unspoilt part of the Indian Himalaya.

To join the Nubra First Ascents expedition and have a good chance of climbing a peak, you need:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Tailor-made option

We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may want a Jagged Globe leader or go 'self-led' with the assistance of local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly if you take the self-led option. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!