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Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

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Spantik

Altitude 7,030m/23,064ft » Duration 30 Days » Grade 2D

The least difficult 7,000m peak in the Karakoram

Introduction

This expedition is a superb climbing opportunity in a fabulous range of mountains. Spantik is part of the mountain chain which forms the boundary between Hunza and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakoram Himalaya. The dramatic approach trek along the Chogolungma Glacier passes through a variety of beautiful mountain surroundings, far from the regular trekking routes. Straightforward climbing leads to the summit of the mountain where clear conditions result in tremendous views in all directions. The Nagar and Hunza peaks can be seen close by to the west, while Nanga Parbat lies to the south and K2 and the Baltoro peaks can be seen on the eastern horizon.

The ascent route follows Spantik's south east ridge. This is a long and demanding snow ridge with few sections of technical difficulty and little objective danger. This route was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock-Workman, who reached a very creditable high point of 6,700m. Karl Kramer's German expedition made the first successful ascent of the mountain by this route in 1955. It has now been repeated several dozen times since the first ascent by parties from several nations.

Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective; an ideal next step for those who have previously climbed a 6,000m trekking peak, or those preparing for an 8,000m expedition.

Expedition Outline

Our flight arrives in Islamabad in the early morning. We have a chance to explore the twin cities of Islamabad/Rawalpindi and obtain our climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism. The following morning we take the spectacular flight to Skardu passing close to Nanga Parbat. If the flight is unable to operate because of bad weather, we make the journey by road. Skardu is the administrative capital of Baltistan and the base for expeditions visiting this region of the Karakoram. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the many travellers purchasing supplies and hiring porters.

Our next destination is the small village of Arandu, which is an 85km jeep journey along narrow mountain roads. After hiring our local porters from the village, we embark on our first day of trekking to arrive at a campsite overlooking the Chogolungma Glacier by mid afternoon. A day of trekking along the ablation valley on the north side of the glacier is followed by a day crossing the ice to reach Spantik base camp.

We have more than two weeks to climb Spantik. The route follows the 9km long South East Ridge. From base camp at 4,160m, we climb a steep rocky slope to camp 1 and then a further two camps are placed along the gently angled ridge before the summit push. The porters will carry most of our equipment as we make a number of steady altitude gains and light load carries to aid acclimatisation. The climbing on summit day involves a gentle traverse and a 500m slope of 30°. Following our descent, we pack up base camp and trek to Arandu where we meet our jeeps for the drive to Skardu. From here, we travel to Islamabad by air if possible, or by road if the flight is cancelled due to bad weather. Once in Islamabad there will be time for relaxing and sightseeing and a chance to celebrate the success of our expedition in fine style. The team departs from Islamabad the next day.

The Climb

The South East Ridge of Spantik is one of the most attainable routes to a 7,000m summit in the Karakoram. From a rocky base camp at 4,160m on the edge of the Chogolungma Glacier, the route follows moderately angled snow slopes. The South East Ridge rises 2,870m over its 8.8Km length. The slopes are mostly 30° or less with short sections of 40°. Camp 1 will be placed at a height of 5,250m, camp 2 at 5,670m and camp 3 at 6,250m.

Leaving base camp, the climb to camp 1 follows a moderately steep slope; firstly on grass then higher up, this changes to a scramble up a rocky ridge with patches of loose scree. Camp 1 is situated on a series of rocky platforms close the snowline (4-5 hrs). The route then follows the long undulating ridge mostly on snow to the large level site of Camp 2 (4-5 hrs). Above this the slope steepens and 500-600m of rope will be fixed between camp 2 and camp 3. The first section of 400m will be fixed on an open 35° slope leading to a large snow platform, sometimes used by other groups as a campsite. After a few hundred metres of easier ground, a second section of 150m will be fixed as the slope steepens to 40° before reaching an obvious crest on the ridge. Shortly after this, Camp 3 will be placed on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes (4-5 hrs).

The route to the summit from camp 3 is quite straightforward. A gentle slope rises to a height of 6,550m where it steepens to join the SW ridge. This is then followed for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit. The top of the mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixed on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent/2-3 hrs descent).

Fixed ropes will be placed on any steep or awkward sections on the climb and straightforward sections will be well marked with marker wands. Prior to the summit push, all members need to help with the load carrying and placement of camps. This not only supports the logistic build-up on the mountain, which we need for a safe ascent, but also provides essential acclimatisation for each member. Even so, high altitude porters do most of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out before they can attempt the summit. Members will do no more load carrying than they require to move their personal equipment and ensure their acclimatisation.

The exact programme on the mountain will depend on a number of factors, including prevailing weather and snow conditions, plus team members' degree of fitness and acclimatisation. However all members of the group should expect to make 3 journeys to Camp 1, 2 journeys to Camp 2, 1 or 2 journeys to camp 3, plus a summit bid. This may require 8 or 9 days of activity on the mountain for each person during the 14 days allocated to the climb. Climbers joining this expedition will be required to have the strength and stamina to make these targets, as well as the ability to rest and live efficiently in the high camps. High daytime temperatures during good weather spells often mean that much of the climbing is undertaken in the early hours of the morning. It is typical to start from a high camp at 2.00 - 3.00 am and reach the next camp by 8.00 - 9.00 a.m.

Overall, the route and the campsites are objectively safe, and are not threatened by any significant avalanche danger. Given good snow and weather conditions this route offers a high chance of summit success for strong climbers who are able to adapt to the demands of 'expedition style' mountaineering.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Islamabad
Day 2:Arrive in Islamabad, fly to Skardu
This is a spectacular flight to the edge of the Karakoram Mountains, giving great views of Nanga Parbat and many other famous peaks. This flight is weather dependent so if it is cancelled, the team will travel to Skardu by road. We stay overnight in the K2 hotel (2,300m) overlooking the Indus river.
Day 3:Travel by Jeep to Arandu
Jeeps take us up the Shigar Valley, following the Askole road before branching westwards to follow the Basha River Gorge to the village of Arandu. Landslides often close the road up this gorge, so some walking along this section can be expected. This 85Km journey often requires a full day. We camp at the edge of Arandu village c2,770m.
Day 4:Trek to Chogo Brangsa camp (3,325m)
We hire local porters from the village to carry our equipment to base camp. The first day of trekking is quite short. After climbing onto the snout of the Chogolungma Glacier the path follows the grassy ablation valley on the northern side of the Glacier. (4-5hrs).
Day 5:Trek to Bolocho camp (3,820m)
A longer day of trekking. We continue along the northern edge of the Chogolungma Glacier, crossing two subsidiary glaciers to a campsite by the Bolocho Glacier (7-8hrs).
Day 6:Trek to Spantik base camp (4,160m)
We leave the ablation valley and head out onto the ice of the Chogolungma Glacier. The gradient is gentle and we slowly gain height as we approach base camp at the foot of Spantik's South East Ridge (5-6hrs).
Day 7:Rest day at base camp
A day to get established at base camp and to sort out personal and group equipment. We prepare for the climb.
Day 8-24:Spantik ascent
We have up to 17 days to climb the peak. Three camps will be established above BC: camp 1 at 5,160m, camp 2 at 5,670m and camp 3 at 6,250m. Group members will work alongside our HAP's (high altitude porters) carrying light loads to stock the camps in preparation for a summit attempt. The slopes are mostly angled at 30° or less. A few sections of 40° will be equipped with fixed ropes.
Day 25:Depart base camp
Together with our local staff, we will dismantle base camp and retrace the trekking trail down the Chogolungma Glacier (7-8hrs).
Day 26:Trek to Arandu
The second day of the walk out from Base Camp. A further 6-8 hrs walk will take us to Arandu village where we camp.
Day 27:Drive from Arandu to Skardu
An early start from Arandu will enable us to reach Skardu in time for lunch and spend a relaxing afternoon in the garden of the K2 Hotel.
Day 28:Fly from Skardu to Islamabad
Day 29:Spare day in Islamabad/Rawalpindi
A day for sightseeing and shopping in the Twin cities of Islamabad (Pakistan's modern Capital) and Rawalpindi (The older city). This day may be required for road travel if the previous day's flight has been cancelled as a result of bad weather.
Day 30:Fly from Islamabad to UK

PLEASE NOTE:The above itinerary is intended as a guideline only. While we will make every effort to adhere to it, changes may be forced for reasons beyond our control. When travelling to remote locations such as this, a flexible approach from all members is much appreciated.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Spantik: Spantik altitude profile, 11 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Experienced mountaineers, guides and instructors lead all of our expeditions. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but also that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be supported by high altitude porters. Dependent on the size of the team, he or she may be assisted by another experienced Jagged Globe leader.

Experience Required

Spantik is graded 2D.

Spantik is graded 2D and is a superb climbing opportunity for those wanting to further their mountaineering skills and altitude experience prior to an attempt on an 8,000m peak.

To join the Spantik expedition and have a good chance of success, it is preferable that you have:

Spantik gives a chance to join a truly 'Himalayan' style of expedition, involving fixed camps on the mountain and a rigorous acclimatisation programme.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we hold a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. This will be hosted by a Jagged Globe leader who has recent experience of leading an expedition to Spantik. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike or some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Spantik you need the following specialist equipment

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

International Flights

Most members of our expeditions prefer to fly from London Heathrow Airport. However if suitable flights are available we are able to offer departures from some UK regional airports direct to Pakistan, at no extra cost. Once the flight schedules for the following year are published we will know if there are suitable flights from Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow. Please contact the Jagged Globe office if you would prefer to fly from one of these airports.

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!