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Stok Kangri

Altitude 6,121m/20,082ft » Duration 17 Days » Grade 1A

A 6,000m summit and excellent introduction to mountaineering in the Himalaya, in a two-week trip to Ladakh

Introduction

Stok Kangri is clearly visible from Leh, the capital of Ladakh in Northern India. We have been organising expeditions to this fine trekking peak since 1988 and for 2010, have refined our itinerary so that the trip can now be completed in a little over two weeks. We fly from Delhi to Leh and spend two days here acclimatising and visiting hill top monasteries, before following our new itinerary, which visits the quiet Shang Valley. Here, we cross many spurs and minor passes, with occasional views northwards towards the Indus Valley, until we reach a high point at the 4,960m Shang La, prior to arriving at Stok Kangri base camp.

To improve our chances of reaching the top, we use an advance base camp at 5,400m. On summit day we cross a glacier and scree to reach the sharp south ridge, which leads, in a superbly exposed position, to the narrow summit. On a clear day you can see as far as the mighty Karakoram and K2, 220Km to the north west. Additional highlights of the trip include visiting Leh, the ancient capital of Ladakh. The regal air of the city, with its 'potala-like' palace and the charm of the friendly and traditionally dressed Ladakhi people, all contribute to the experience of this expedition.

To join this superb trip, you need to be familiar with the use of ice axe and crampons on low-angled terrain and be confident on British Grade I scrambles, such as Snowdon's Crib Goch. An Introductory Long Weekend mountaineering course in Scotland would serve as ideal preparation.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1-2:Fly London to Delhi.
Our flight departs London on Friday evening and arrives at Delhi International Airport at 0900 the following morning. Local time in Delhi is 4.5 hours ahead, but hopefully we will have been able to sleep on the flight. We are met at the airport and taken to our hotel, which is very conveniently placed for sightseeing in the city. In July and August, the air-conditioning and swimming pool are always most welcome. The central location of our hotel enables you to visit the local bazaars and shops around Connaught Place. We particularly recommend the famous ice-cream bar, Nirula's, and its excellent restaurant upstairs. The extensive lawns surrounding India Gate are also nearby, with the Government Buildings at the far end.
Day 3:Fly to Leh, the capital of Ladakh.
We make an early start to take the flight to Leh, the capital city of Ladakh. The flight takes us over the Greater Himalaya and makes an exciting landing at one of the highest airports in the world. We can hope to get excellent views of Stok Kangri as we fly-in and, on a clear day, the great peaks of the Karakoram are visible to the north. We are met at the airport and taken to the Kang Lha Chen. The rest of the day is at leisure. Leh is at an altitude of nearly 3,350m/11,000ft, and you can expect to feel the effects of the rarefied atmosphere. For the first few hours, you may be a little breathless and perhaps have a slight headache. These symptoms of altitude sickness are mild and usually disappear quite quickly, however, everyone is advised to take it easy for the first day or two. Press-ups and hill sprints are definitely taboo!
Day 4-5:Exploring the city of Leh.
We have two days to relax and stroll around Leh, to allow the effects of the altitude to wear off. This is an important period, which allows the body to acclimatise in preparation for the initial trek. There are plenty of distractions in Leh, varying from scenic and cultural to gastronomic. There are options of visiting the 11th century monastery at Alchi and the famous Khardung La pass (the highest motorable road in the world).
Day 6:Trek to Sumdo (3,800m).
In the morning we will visit the Thiksey Monastery, which is 18Km outside of Leh and continue our drive to the beginning of the trek to Shang. Our walk begins up a stony valley via a well-defined path. There are several river crossings en route to our camp, which we establish just before the gorge at Sumdo (3,800m). Overall, it should take about 3 hrs to get to camp.
Day 7:Trek to Shang Phu (4,365m).
Fom Sumdo, we head west into a tributary valley, which leads after a long and gradual ascent to the Gyuncho La at 4,700m. Descending from the pass, we make camp at Shang Phu at an altitude of 4,365m to complate a total of 5 to 6 hrs walking.
Day 8:Cross the Shang La (4,960m).
Our third day on trek is probably the toughest non summit day of the trip, as we climb 900m to a high point on the Shang La. This part of our acclimatisation trek traverses an area which is very rarely visited and involves the crossing of many spurs and minor passes, with occasional views northwards towards the Indus Valley and the peaks beyond. Following our ascent to the Shang La (4,960m), we then descend to the Tokpo River for lunch. After lunch we trek downhill, contouring around spurs and over a 4,550m pass to our camping place at Gangpoche (4,435m). Today we can expect to walk for 6 to 7 hours.
Day 9:Trek to Smankarmo (4,380m).
It's another steady climb in the morning, this time up to the Matho La (4,965m). From just before the pass we have our views of Stok Kangri. When it is clear, it is also possible to see the 8,000m Gasherbrum peaks 210 km away in Pakistan. Kashmir is in the narrow gap in the foreground. At the Matho La pass, we can walk 100m southwest on the top of the ridge, just past the first small hill for views of Saltoro Kangri. We then descend into the valley to the north of Stok Village. This lovely valley is a high and wild area, which is visited only by climbing groups and by the local people who spend some of the summer months in picturesque villages of stone huts, from where they tend their flocks of sheep and goats. W camp near Shepherds huts at Smankarmo (4,380m) after 4 to 5 hours of walking.
Day 10:Trek to Stok Kangri base camp (4,980m).
A two hour trek takes us up to the base camp area for Stok Kangri (Yarlas at 4,980m). This pleasant campsite is on a grassy area beside a meltwater stream. In the afternoon we can walk above our camp for views of the Rimo peaks (adjacent to the Siachen Glacier in the East Karakoram), where the meltwater torrent flows out of the very middle of the Gulap Glacier's terminal moraine at 5,160m.
Day 11:A rest day and time for final preparations.
The expedition leader checks the route to the glacier and looks for a site for advance base camp. It is possible that he or she may require help to prepare the site for this camp, which is located on the glacier, cradled on the lower slopes of the mountain itself, several hours above base camp.
Day 12:Move to advance base camp (5,400m).
From base camp, we climb straight up the moraine, which stands immediately above our camp. This is tiring work first thing in the day but it soon eases to give a gentle descent and access to the glacier beyond. Depending on snow conditions, we may put on crampons as soon as we walk onto the glacier. The surface of the glacier will probably be uneven and furrowed by melt water streams. There are a few, very small crevasses, which are crossed easily. At the top of the glacier the slope steepens as we climb up onto the south face where the camp is located on a promontory of rough ground at approximately 5,400m. Using this high camp also engenders a real 'expedition feel' and heightens the anticipation of the climb itself.
Day 13:Summit day.
Our summit day begins before dawn, to give us ample time for the climb. Being several hours above base camp, starting from here considerably shortens the day and increases everyone's chances of reaching the summit. This tactic has proved particularly effective and in the last two years, for example, every team member has reached the top. The nature of the climb from advance base camp depends on the snow cover. It is most likely that we do not need our crampons for the most part as we scramble over scree and boulders, which lead up to the south ridge. The 1,500 ft ridge that stretches up to the summit is exciting and superbly exposed, although never particularly steep and very straightforward. Most of the ridge is like a steep path, so ropes are not usually necessary, although some scrambling is required. At an altitude approaching 20,000 ft it is extremely tiring and anybody who needs a rope will be able to use one.

The summit is a superb reward for your effort, giving magnificent views in every direction. The city of Leh is so small that you can barely see it. After taking photographs and perhaps a bite to eat, we set off back down the hill. The route taken depends on the leader, but it is usually a reversal of the way we went up. Occasionally our groups have descended the South Face, in which case a small abseil is necessary near the top. On reaching the glacier, we return all the way back to base camp, our advance base camp having been dismantled by our camp staff. The evening meal is be accompanied by a wee dram to celebrate the occasion!

Day 14:Trek to Stok from base camp.
From base camp we trek directly down the valley towards the village of Stok. This is a delightful walk through a dramatic canyon with amazing red sandstone formations. We pass several homesteads and numerous ruins of old fortresses, reaching Stok after about six hours walking. Our transport meets us here to take us back to the Kang Lha Chen Hotel in Leh.
Day 15:Fly from Leh to Delhi.
After another spectacular flight, we return to our hotel and some welcome relaxation.
Day 16:At leisure in Delhi.
Time for last minute shopping and sightseeing. For those with plenty of energy we can organise a day trip to Agra and the Taj Mahal (this is not included in the price).
Day 17:Fly from Delhi to London.
Our flight departs Delhi International Airport in the early afternoon, arriving back in London in the early evening.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Agra Fort and Taj Mahal Day Trip

A day trip to Agra and the Taj Mahal is an optional extra for group members on Day 16 of the itinerary. It includes a tour guide for the day, all transfers, 1st class rail travel to Agra (with breakfast) and return via air-con minibus, lunch in a local hotel and the entrance price for the Taj Mahal.

This day trip can be organised by your expedition leader and the cost is payable in country.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Stok Kangri: Stok Kangri altitude profile, 10 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The Jagged Globe leader is supported by English speaking, Nepalese climbing Sherpas who have climbed Stok Kangri many times before.

Experience Required

Stok Kangri is graded 1A.

Stok Kangri is considered to be a suitable 'starter expedition' for fit trekkers. It is an excellent first Himalayan peak and no previous experience of high altitude or mountaineering is required. The expedition would appeal to those that want to trek in the Himalayas but also want more of a challenge with a specific objective. Those that have climbed in the Alps may also feel comfortable tackling their first high altitude peak by a straightforward ascent.

To join one of the Stok Kangri expeditions and have a good chance of reaching the summit, you need:

It is essential that you have:

It is preferable that you have:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the Stok Kangri expedition you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete suggested kit list is included in the Expedition Dossier.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!