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News for September 2008

2009 Scottish Winter Courses PDF

Full details of our 2009 Scottish Winter Courses are available as a PDF download... [read more]

Aconcagua season update

We are organising five expeditions to the 'world's highest trekking peak' this coming season:

Aconcagua - 7 to 31 December '08 (Leader: John Armstrong), Limited spaces
Aconcagua - 14 Dec to 7 Jan '09 (Leader: Mic Rofe), Fully booked
Aconcagua - 8 Jan to 1 Feb '09 (Leader: Mic Rofe), Limited spaces
Aconcagua - 15 Jan to 8 Feb '09 (Leader: Paul Donovan), Spaces
Aconcagua - 22 Jan to 15 Feb '09 (Leader: Phill Thomas IFMGA), Limited spaces

This will be Jagged Globe's 17th season on Aconcagua. Our 25-day itinerary is designed to give everyone an excellent chance to acclimatise and have a shot at the summit. Aconcagua is a tough environment though, so please call us (0845 345 8848) to chat about the climb and what you can expect on our trips. [read more about Aconcagua]

Manaslu update

The weather is now looking better on Manaslu, but there is now a lot of work to do now to re-establish the route and camp 2, which had been buried in snow. The team has been biding their time at ABC for the past week, whilst the snow fell but are now eager to head back up onto the mountain. The Sherpas are heading up today to see what the tents at camps 1 and 2 are looking like. We'll keep you posted! [read more about Manaslu]

Manaslu update - snow and birthdays

With everyone and everything ready for our summit push it has been a frustrating week in ABC.

We have had good and bad weather forecasts, unfortunately forecasts have been rather inconsistent and persistent snowfall has meant little movement on the mountain. Sherpas have been visiting C1 and have been working exceptionally hard to keep the Jagged Globe tents from being buried. Meanwhile the members hae been digging at ABC!

Luckily with generator power our team have enjoyed afternoon DVDs and the warmth of the mess tent heater. The week has also seen two birthdays Gordon Brown (37) and Phil Timms the big 40, so Monday was party day with silly hats, big cake and lots of base camp goodies!

Suprisingly everyone had a great time despite the absence of alcohol.

Trifle has also been on the menu this week together with the finest Green and Blacks chocolate!

The waiting continues...

Unfortunately Andrew McIntyre has had to return home after his chest infection refused to disappear despite several days rest in Sama Goen and treatment. Andrew should now be on his way home and we are all missing his organisational skills at ABC!

Hopefully we will bring better news on our next blog.

Chris Groves. [read more about Manaslu]

100% succes on Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades

All 11 members of our September Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades trek team reached the true summit of Kilimanjaro this week. Places are still available on our Christmas treks. Join us on the best trekking route up the mountain with proven acclimatisation. Leader, Paul Westwood has posted his web report from our September trek... [read more] or [read more about Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades]

Manaslu blog update

What to say? This final acclimatisation push turned out to be full of twists.

Waking yet again to a snowy morning for the climb from ABC to C1 the team pushed through arriving Monday afternoon at camp 1. And then, as you've now come to guess another nights' snowshowers meant a hold pattern at C1 for a second night.

But early Wednesday morning we woke to the shocking sight of clear skies so at 3 am it was Pema shaking the tents awake and an eager-eyed team readying for the climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2. After nearly three weeks building up power out here in the Himalaya you might be tempted to think this would be just another day on the hill. No, no. Instead, a 1,030 meter climb from roughly 5,720 to 6,750 lay ahead. The objective danger came first, traversing below towering seracs that stand gaping in sight all the way from ABC and Camp 1. Needless to say, for some, this was an adrenaline-filled start. For others, it was crampons scraping their very first ladder that provided the bigger thrill.

And then, just as we eased from the sights of these gaping giants the route turns up. Up and up and up. The climb took us up a snow gully and up and around a few more ice walls to a lower camp 2 sitting atop a ledge at 6,400 meters. And then, reminiscent of Everest's Western Cwm (only steeper!) the sun hit and up we climbed the last scorching 300 vertical meters to our higher Camp 2.

With the exception of Adam, whose stomach bug had him vomiting all over the trail and quickly descending, the last of the team made it through to camp 2 just before 4pm settling in for brews and the inevitable lightheadedness. What normally follows would have been a punishing but snug night huddled in down gear and sleeping bags, perched high above the clouds. Instead, the radio crackled on with news from our neighbours down at ABC that a new forecast had arrived predicting an immediate shift in weather conditions and 40-70 cm of snow due in over the night and coming 2 days.

Protected as we were at C2 we couldn't afford the risk. So with only an hours recovery for the last group in, Adele & co. turned the troops around. Within 15 minutes we'd packed up the last of our sleeping bags, dumped the loads of food, and dug out the headlamps for what was a serious but necessary descent back down to Camp 1.

A description of the descent will have to come later. For now, we'll just leave it that we're all down safe and secure here at ABC.

More details soon,
Mara [read more about Manaslu]

Manaslu team to camp 2 (6,750m)

The team are back in advance base camp having climbed to camp 2 in the past couple of days. Unfortunately, due to bad weather that put down 40cm of snow, they chose to descend, rather than stay overnight there. Base Camp Manager, Mara Larson, will write a more detailed update which we'll post tomorrow. So please check back then.

Denali 2009 - book now!

We're currently holding prices for our 2009 Denali (McKinley) expeditions. The 16 May expedition is now fully booked, so book now to secure your preferred dates. Denali is the highest mountain in North America and the toughest of the Seven Summits after Everest. If carrying 30Kg loads and weathering storms is your idea of fun, then this could be the trip for you! Alaska is unquestionably one of the most stunningly beautiful mountain environments that we visit, so please contact us if you would like to discuss your suitability for this expedition. [read more about Denali (McKinley)]

Ecuador at Christmas

Join Mungo Ross on our Christmas and New Year Ecuador Volcanoes expedition. This will be Mungo's 34th expedition for Jagged Globe and his fifth to Ecuador. He enjoyed leading last year's festive trip so much that he's back again with another team. You will spend Christmas in a mountain hut on Cayambe, the country's 3rd highest volcano, with the aim of summiting Cotopaxi, the 2nd highest mountain in Ecuador and the highest active volcano in the world, on New Year's Eve. Relaxing in comfortable haciendas and visiting hot springs are all part of this superb mountaineering package. In addition to our Christmas trip, we also have places on our 2 November team, led by Gaspar Navarrete. [read more about Ecuador Volcanoes]

Mexican Volcanoes at Christmas

Our Christmas and New Year Mexican Volcanoes expedition will spend Christmas Eve on Iztaccihuatl, prior to climbing the country's highest volcano, Orizaba (5,746m), before returning to Mexico City on New Year's Eve. The trip is suitable for those with ice axe and crampon experience, or anyone who wishes to have a culturally fascinating holiday, with some memorable mountaineering. There are now just a few spaces remaining on this trip. [read more about Mexican Volcanoes]

Kilimanjaro at Christmas

We have three departures to Kilimanjaro over Christmas and New Year. All three of these trips are guaranteed and currently have a few spaces still left on them:

Kilimanjaro - Western Breach 15 to 27 December '08
Kilimanjaro - Western Breach 26 Dec to 7 Jan '09
Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 26 Dec to 4 Jan '09

The Kilimanjaro - Western Breach itinerary acclimatises on Mt Meru, then climbs the mountain via the most exciting scrambling route. Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades is a trekking route, following a gradual acclimatisation profile around the southern aspect of the mountain. It's a more interesting and quieter route than some of the other trekking routes, such as the Rongai. For details of the Western Breach itinerary [read more] or [read more about Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades]

Rush Peak success and reports

Our inaugural Rush Peak and The Hunza Valley trek team are back home, having successfully climbed Rush Peak (5,098m) and trekked through the little visited valleys of Hunza. Team member, Brian Yates said

"These Hunza and Nagar areas are quite different, scenically and culturally, from the more usually visited Baltoro. We met only herdsmen at high pastures on our acclimatisation treks and we were ably assisted by a team of local porters."

Both Brian, and expedition leader, David Hamilton, have posted web reports... [read more] or [read more about Rush Peak & The Hunza Valley]

Cathedral Peak team thwarted by snow

Neal Short called in earlier this week to report that the team were poised at camp 1, but heavy snowfall over the weekend meant that they were unable to move up to camp 2 and make a summit bid. This is a great shame, as they have now run out of time and will be returning to the UK this coming weekend. A full website report will be posted in the next week or so. [read more about Cathedral Peak]

Mera and Island Peak - 3 April (1 place)

There is just one place remaining on our 3 April 2009 Mera and Island Peak expedition. This sought after itinerary climbs two of Nepal's best 'trekking peaks' and crosses the formidable Amphu Labtsa. The expedition is suitable for those with Alpine PD climbing experience, who are able to abseil unsupervised in exposed siutations and are confident on steep, loose ground. [read more about Mera & Island Peak]

2009 Off Piste Skiing courses

Details of our 2009 Off Piste Skiing courses, including dates and prices, are now available. This winter we are organising courses again in The 3 Valleys, Tignes and Verbier. BASI Instructor, Simon Christy will be providing expert tuition... [read more]

Manaslu - finding a route to Camp 2

Chris Groves, part of our leadership team on Manaslu, updates us from base camp on Manaslu, the world's eighth highest mountain:

"Hello from Manaslu ABC

With news that the team is in good health & enjoying a rest day or two after all sleeping at C1 5,720m (majority for 2 nights) having previously visited the camp last Fri.

ABC is filling up with several other teams and with Jagged Globe sherpas having done the majority of the fixing / route making they too are having a well earned rest. The current problem being worked on is the the way through to C2 (6,750m). Yesterday Mingma & team assisted by Adele fixed through to c6,100m going to the right of the rock island (the autumn route) They found some very steep sections, large crevasses & some ocassional danger of serac fall. Other teams are today pushing a left hand (spring) route up a steep coulour. This appears to be quicker but more prone to avalanche.

A decision will be made as to which route is best then the plan will be for everyone to return & sleep at C1 then go up to sleep at C2 6,750m before returning to ABC for a couple of rest days. (A further camp C3 is planned c7400m but will only be used as part of a summit attempt)

The weather continues in the expected pattern of clear mornings followed by cloud & showers in the afternoon. Although our Swiss forecasters are unsure as to whether this will continue into the weekend." [read more about Manaslu]

Manaslu team to camp 1

Here's an update from our team on Manaslu, who climbed to camp 1 over the weekend:

3 September:

After a successful mystery weekend away to the world famous resort of Samdo the team were sufficiently acclimatized. Initial honors in card games went to the Irish who vanquished the American.

Leaving the ravenous bed bugs of the tea house for the next expeditions we made the move to advanced base camp at 4,850m. We were greeted by an Aladin's Cave of home comforts in the mess tent. Perched on a moraine ridge advanced base camp, our home for the next month, gives great views up the glaciated mountain to our higher camps. No mafia have yet been killed at ABC but GOD is sure it will happen soon (**yes, very much an inside joke Michael's initiated the team in evening rounds of the game**)

Michael P, team member

5 September:

" The whole team are now back down from Camp 1. We had a steaming hot climb up from base camp and report the smell of melting rubber around 5,000m as the sun baked down on them, and their boots.

Adam P reports, "the needles of ice with staggering drops on both sides was the most memorable part of the morning. The snow slope just approaching camp 1 was also exhausting and it was definitely the toughest day so far, by a long way. But now that I've made use of the Jagged Globe shower I'm ready to go again."

Adam's plans for the evening include lounging around in the mess tent, eating and drinking whatever he can to recuperate, and having John Denver music enforced upon him.

Thank you Adam, for your input. You'll learn not to sit next to the base camp manager as she types up her report next time!"

Mara Larson, Base Camp Manager [read more about Manaslu]

Alpine Ice update

We have a great range of winter Alpine Ice climbing courses this season, with some of our favourite guides teaching you steep ice techniques. Our December Alpine Ice - La Grave course is now fully booked, but we have more courses running in La Grave, Chamonix/Cogne, Gavarnie (Pyrenees) and Slovenia during January and February. Guides working on these courses will be Jim Blyth, Andy Owen, Tomaz Jakofcic, Richard Dupont and Rick Marchant. For more on Gavarnie... [read more] or [read more about Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne]

Seven Summits - 1 to go!

Tore Rasmussen from Egersund in the south-west of Norway has just returned from Russia, having climbed his 6th 'Seven Summit' - Elbrus (5,642m). Tore summited Aconcagua in 1994, then went to Everest with Jagged Globe MD, Simon Lowe in 1996. On that expedition they were stopped by deep snow. He tried Cho Oyu in 1999 and Shishapangma in 1999 and 2000, finally climbing Cho Oyu in 2003. Tore summited Everest via the North Ridge with David Hamilton in 2005, and has since then led expeditions for Jagged Globe to Kilimanjaro (2006) and Carstensz Pyramid (2007). He climbed Denali with us this past spring and now has just Vinson to climb, which he is doing so this coming season.

Kilimanjaro - Western Breach report

Team member, Andy Parkinson has posted a detailed report from the second of our two August Kilimanjaro - Western Breach expeditions. We have two more trips coming up this September and then more over Christmas and New Year (spaces still available!)... [read more] or [read more about Kilimanjaro - Western Breach]

Best Kept Secret - Our 8,000 metre Objective

Without an assurance for Cho Oyu, in the wake of the Games and all that passed before in Tibet, we opted for an alternative peak for our late summer 8,000-metre expedition.

The chosen mountain is Manaslu, the world’s 8th highest at 8,163m. Manaslu has had relatively few ascents and, if our team is successful, we hope that several “firsts” will be achieved.

Nepal bound just 12 days ago; the team arrived in Manaslu's base camp last week. Meanwhile, the Sherpas had left Kathmandu ahead of the main team’s arrival to get to grips with the climbing. Led on the mountain by the redoubtable Mingma Tshirri (13 Everest ascents), the Sherpas have fixed rope from ABC to Camp 1 already, and the tents are up!

The standard trek to Manaslu only goes over 2,500 metres the day before walking into base camp, so it gives little chance to acclimatise. Therefore, we flew the team to the mountain via Pokhara and a helicopter, so that time could be spent climbing and getting some real acclimatisation as soon as possible on its lower slopes. That is what the team has been doing successfully for the last few days, so everyone now has moved to advance base camp. Whilst other teams filter through the forests below to join them in base camp, our team is set to make their first journey upwards to Camp 1 within the next day or so.

To watch progress, we will keep you informed by posting regular up-dates written by the team members as they climb higher on the mountain.

[read more about Manaslu]

Cathedral Peak update from base camp

Expedition leader, Neal Short just phoned in from base camp on Cathedral Peak in the Karakoram.

"So far all of the team have made two trips up to camp one and yesterday reached 5,200 metres, before descending to base camp. Tomorrow we aim to go back up to camp one to further acclimatise and hopefully make a summit bid."

More as it comes... [read more about Cathedral Peak]

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