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Ama Dablam 2008

Despatches from this expedition [get by email]

11:13 4th December (GMT) - Back in Namche

The Ama Dablam team have just arrived in Namche Bazaar...it is rather a ghost town at this time of year, though I'm convinced that we will seek out a bit of life later this evening!

The recent dispatches have all been via text messages on the satellite phone and therefore rather brief. So to fill in a few details;- On Saturday 29 November from 12 noon till about 2pm Emma, Archie, Richard and Andy all summited Ama Dablam with the Sherpas Pasang Tenzing, Mingma Tsiri and Ang Kaji. Jerome decided to return to Camp 3 from just above 'the dablam' concerned that he did not have enough energy to summit and return safely. John decided to rest at camp 3. Meanwhile back at Base Camp Marty was facing the difficult decision that his flu was developing into bronchitis and he needed to get down to lower, warmer elevations. Rob also decided that he didn't have the necessary drive for the summit attempt and didn't want to disadvantage anyone else. On the following day Sunday the second team passed the first between camps 2 and 3. Apparently John made a rather spectacular somersault on the infamous Mushroom Ridge. And I was wondering why he looked rather dishevelled when we passed! On Monday 1 December Caroline, Corinne, Bill and Barry summited from 1-2pm with the help of the Sherpas Pa-Dawa, Phuerba Geljen, and Tamtin.

Everyone is tired but in good spirits. There are a few 'company colds' still going. Corinne has lost her voice. John, Chris and Archie are a day in advance of us heading to Lukla. Everyone is looking foreward to the luxuries of Kathmandu. I hope Kit hasn't forgotten the room with a bath he promised me!

Hopefully we wont be led astray by our Irishman Barry tonight!!

Caroline Ogden, expedition leader

1st December - More summits

On Saturday and today, seven members of our team summited Ama Dablam, together with expedition leader, Caroline Ogden IFMGA and members of our Sherpa team.

On Saturday 29 November, Emma, Archie, Rich and Andy topped out. We've just had word from Caroline, that she topped out this afternoon (1 December) with Barry, Bill and Corinne. They will descend to base camp tomorrow.

Caroline is sending updates by text message, so we apologise for the brevity of our despatches. Hopefully tomorrow we'll have more details, once the second half of the team are back in BC and have time to talk to us at more length. Congratulations to the whole team!

29th November - Summit!

Caroline Ogden has sent us a text message from Camp 2 on Ama Dablam. Between 12 and 1pm today, Emma, Archie, Rich and Andy reached the summit. The second group are now in Camp 2. This group is now Corinne, Bill, Barry and Caroline. They plan to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow, whilst the first team will descend to at least Camp 1. Chris has descended to base camp. That's all for now. We'll let you know when we know more. JG office.

28th November - First group in Camp 3

Text message update from Caroline Ogden at Camp 1 on Ama Dablam:

"The first half of the group (Emma, Rich, Andy, Jerome, Archie and John) have arrived at Camp 3 and will be making their summit attempt tomorrow (29 November). The second half of the group (Bill, Barry, Chris, Corrine and Caroline) are now in Camp 1. Rob is heading back to Kathmandu."

Marty is still unwell in base camp.

The very best of luck to the team from us all in the Sheffield office!

27th November - Up at Camp 2

Latest news in from base camp:

The first half of the team are now up at Camp 2 (Emma, Rich, Andy, Jerome, Archie and John). They plan to move on up tomorrow on their summit push. The rest of the team are in base camp (Bill, Barry, Chris, Corrine and Rob). They plan to move up tomorrow with Caroline.

Also... "Happy 13th Birthday Gabs from your Dad"

24th November - Acclimatisation and flu

An update by text from Marty Beare in base camp, of the team's acclimatisation:

Caroline, Corinne, Barry and Robin spent last night at ABC and are now heading up to Camp 1 to overnight there.

Em, Rich, Bill, Andy and Archie all tagged Camp 2 (5900m) yesterday, then spent a second night at Camp 1. John is currently resting at Camp 1. The rest of this group have now descended to Base Camp.

Jerome, Chris and Marty all came down from Camp 1 yesterday. Marty is sick with the flu. Sadly, Mark has decided to leave the expedition as he is not well. He is on his way to Lukla today.

20th November - Acclimatising to ABC

The team had their Puja Ceremony this morning, then most of them climbed to ABC (c5150m), before returning to base camp. The first part of the team will start a three-day acclimatisation trip to Camp 2 tomorrow. First they will climb to ABC, then Camp 1, before getting on the fixed ropes and heading out along the ridge towards Camp 2 (5900m). They will then descend all the way back to base camp and rest, prior to starting their summit push.

Caroline Ogden, Expedition Leader

17th November - Pangboche

This morning most of the the team left Pangboche for the 4hr walk up to basecamp at 4,570m. Bill and I decided to stay an extra night in Pangboche due to rather persistant Cold/Flu that we are both recovering from. Everyone is acclimatising well and getting on well, despite the potentially explosive mix of English, Irish, Kiwis, Aussies, and one American!

Marty and I plan a couple of days in base camp resting, sorting food and working on safe use of the fixed lines. We will report again once we have made some progress on the mountain.

Caroline, Expedition Leader.

14th November - Namche Bazaar

Our 2008 Ama Dablam expedition is definitely starting to feel real now. We have reached Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), and are already surrounded by impossibly beautiful peaks including Kusum Kanguru, Thamserku, and Kantega. Our walk up-valley from Lukla was made very enjoyable courtesy of astounding weather, and it appears that more blue skies will accompany us tomorrow to Phortse and on to Pangboche the day after. Our team of English, Scottish, Irish, Australian, USA, Welsh/Austrian and Kiwi members is gelling well. So far we've had no tummy problems, and Yak steak is proving a big hit at meal times. Nima, our Sirdar, today led us up to the classic look-out spot above Namche for a view of Ama Dablam -- there's nothing quite like that first look! All going well we will be at Base Camp in 3 days time, and that's when what we our attempting to do will really begin to sink in.

bye for now,

Caro and Marty

[Namche Bazaar on the trail to Ama Dablam, 5 kb]

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Leader - Caroline Ogden

[Caroline Ogden, 17 kb]

About this Expedition

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu region, it lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. Check out the despatches from our 10th expedition to Ama Dablam, in the Khumbu Valley. The expedition leaders are Caroline Ogden and Marty Beare...

[read more about this expedition]