Alpine Ice - Chamonix and Cogne

Overview

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Introduction

This course takes in two of the most famous ice-climbing venues in the Alps. With easy access and a mix of icefalls of varying degrees of difficulty, Chamonix is a great place to start the week. On Monday evening, we make the short journey through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy. Here we are based in Valnontey, Val de Cogne on the Val d'Aosta side of the Gran Paradiso National Park. Cogne is rightly regarded as one of the premier ice climbing venues in the world, with a huge variety of over two hundred waterfalls, many of which are situated in a quiet valley just a short walk from the road. They freeze in the winter months to form perfect icefalls, from short pitches particularly suitable for novices to more challenging, longer routes. Cogne has everything and if conditions are lean, we also know of a few good 'sport mixed' routes, which can be climbed with ice axes, even if the ice is thin!

Whatever the level of climbing, we are looking at safety on ice, including:

• Avalanche awareness
• Placing ice protection
• Organisation of belays
• Rope techniques
• Abseiling off ice anchors
• Steep ice techniques
• Leading (for those ready for it)

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Experience Required

This course is guided at 1:2 ratio. Everyone from beginners to experienced climbers can enjoy icefall climbing. Climbers are paired according to their abilities and ambitions. You do not need to have previous ice climbing experience, you just need to be able to abseil (which can be learnt in the UK on one of our Rock Introduction Weekends.

Preparation

To climb icefalls and enjoy the experience, you need good basic level of fitness and to be reasonably determined. Indoor climbing will help to tone muscles and improve your grip strength, as well as training your balance and overall agility.

Typical Programme

Day 1:	Sunday. Course participants meet at the course base 7pm. Discuss the week's activities in the evening.
Day 2:	Monday. Climbing in the Chamonix Valley, or just across the border in Switzerland. In the evening you will drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Italy and continue to Cogne (1.5 - 2 hours).
Day 3 - 4:	Tuesday/Wednesday. Climbing in Cogne. In the two main valleys, you have access to a variety of climbs. Classics that are regularly climbed on our courses include Cascades de Lillaz (WI3+), Lillaz Gully (WI4), Patri de Gauche (WI4), Tuborg (WI4+) and Il Candelabro de Coyote (WI4+), to name just a few.
Day 5:	Thursday. Climbing in Cogne. Overnight hotel.
Day 6:	Friday. A final day of climbing in Cogne. Drive back to Chamonix. Travel home. If you are booking a flight home on Friday evening, you should do so no earlier than 2000hrs. If you would like us to book you an additional hotel night in Chamonix, please let us know.

Equipment

Technical ice tools (Petzl Quarks) and rigid crampons (Black Diamond Cyborgs) are included in the price of the Alpine Ice course. We will send you a detailed equipment list once you have booked.

Guides

The Alpine Ice courses are directed by Andy Owen, who has many years' experience of climbing ice in these areas. Andy is joined each winter by a core of Guides, including Jim Kerr, Tomaz Jakofcic, Paul Moores and Neil Brodie... read more

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the course or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Dates & Prices

Date	Meeting in		Availability
Sun 17 Jan – Fri 22 Jan 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
1 place left with £75 early booking offer	£2,095 £2,020
Sun 24 Jan – Fri 29 Jan 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
2 places left with £75 early booking offer	£2,095 £2,020
Sun 31 Jan – Fri 5 Feb 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
2 places left with £75 early booking offer	£2,095 £2,020

This course is available to book in GBP, USD and EUR.
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Group size: 2 – 8 people.

Single room supplement: £500

For comparison, this course starts from £419 (GBP) per day (price Without Flights).

What the price includes

• 1 nights' hotel accommodation in Chamonix on a twin-sharing (occasionally triple/quad), half-board basis
• 4 nights' hotel accommodation in Valnontey, Cogne on a twin-sharing (occasionally triple/quad), half-board basis
• 5 days guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. Ratio 1:2 maximum
• Transport (by public means, private hire vehicle, minibus or guides' cars) to fulfil the course programme
• Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment
• Ice axes & crampons, when booked in advance

What the price does not include

• Travel to/from Chamonix (a shared transfer from Geneva Airport can be booked through Jagged Globe)
• Lunch
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing (including harness, helmets and boots, which can be hired locally)
• Mountaineering and travel Insurance

Photos & Videos

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• Italian waterfall ice climbing in Cogne
• Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne January 2012
• Repentance - classic cascade in Cogne

Reviews

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• ‘Super grateful to have had such exceptional guides. Both professionally and personally.’ NV, Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne '16
• ‘An inspirational week of varied climbing with word class guides’ EV, (Derby)
• ‘You have fun, friendly and flexible Guides (who know their stuff) and who will push you a bit further than you want to go - but you will thank them for it. A great team!’ CJ, (Derby)
• ‘My best week climbing ever’ DS

Leader Reports

• Chamonix/Cogne Ice climbing 12 to 18 January 2003
  “We arrived in Chamonix at the start of our 5-day Alpine Ice climbing course after a week of very cold weather. There were seven of us on the course, with a real mix of past experience and aspirations. Rafael had completed four...”
  report added 28/Jan/03

Travel & Venue

The course starts and finishes in Chamonix. We recommend that you fly to Geneva. A 50 minute airport transfer to Chamonix can be booked through Jagged Globe via your on-line account.

Accommodation in Chamonix is in La Chaumière Mountain Lodge. In Cogne, we stay at Hotel La Barme. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share (or occasionally, triple/quad), half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself and is dependent on availability.