Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades - 18 to 27 Oct '14

The Team with Isaac leading on the way to Barafu camp

Written by Leader Caroline Ogden, October 2014

I started the trip having to run between gates at the enormous Schiphol Airport (Amsterdam). So my plan to be instantly recognizable in my smart Jagged Globe soft shell was foiled, as I was one of the last to get on the plane to Tanzania! It was therefore a great relief to meet all 14 of the team in the baggage hall in Arusha, and even more so when 15 kit bags eventually trundled into view! Outside in the hot tropical night a bus awaited to take us the 40 minutes to the Keys Hotel. Here we had a quick late meal and a chat about plans for the next day. With many of the team awake since 4am that morning (due to connections from the UK) it didn't seem like the time for introductions and long briefings! The first proper day of the expedition involved lots of logistics. First of all there was a 'kit inspection'. This was the cause of a few wisecracks about how well folded everything needed to be etc! It was nevertheless reassuring for me (and the team I hope) to see everyone had the right kit. Despite this someone (no naming and shaming here!) managed to have a kit bag weighing 20 kgs! After that I went and checked the tents and then we rattled our way (very rutted dirt road) to the Londorossi park gate. Here we started with the soon very familiar process of signing in. After this we had a longish wait for as the porters were registered, loads made and weighed and even the porters had a 'kit inspection'! We then jumped back into the bus for a shorter journey, made even shorter when the bus couldn't make it up the hill and we had to get out and walk an extra kilometer to the start of the Lemosho glades track.

A pleasant 3 hour walk up and down through forest and glades bought us to camp just before dark. It was great to be started on the journey properly.

The next day's journey from Mti Mkubwa to Shira One Camp (3500m) was destined to be challenging with the combination of a reasonable distance and height gain with the first effects of the altitude. We were blessed to have dry conditions underfoot ( sections of the track could be rather slippery in wet conditions) and overhead. It did cloud over in the afternoon, this was the pattern of weather we had all week. Anyway the team enjoyed the walk first through rainforest and then subalpine scrub (Erica) onto the majestic Shira plateau. Every one was in good spirits that night around our long and cosy mess table and after a great meal we finally had time for some introductions. When the suggestion that we plan a regular 'sharing' session at afternoon tea time (for the purpose of keeping track of everyone's health and acclimatization) was met with resistance (by a member of the medical profession I believe!) I decided to monitor this in a more individual and private way!

We woke to a frosty clear morning and a great view of Kibo. The summit looked a long way away! We elected for the walk across the Shira plateau direct to the next Shira Two camp. Thinking it would be good to have an easier day before the next big one. This was a very pleasant 3 hour walk gently uphill or on the flat through ancient lava flows. I even found a great Boulder to climb up and the more intrepid (or foolish?) team members followed me!

After an excellent cooked lunch of 'Chicken & Chips' we had a demonstration of the use of the PAC (Portable Altitude Chamber). This would have been more reassuring if the zipper head hadn't come detached from the zip. We were all happy that there was no one trapped inside!

Another lovely morning saw us setting off on the 7 hour walk to Baranco Camp, passing the Lava Tower (4600m) the highest point so far. With some careful pace setting from our local guides we all made it up to the Lava Tower and therefore had our so called 'ticket to the summit'!

The descent to the Baranco Camp was beautiful and somewhat like a picture from 'The Lorax' with the Giant Groundsel trees and Lobelia.

We made a leisurely start the next morning to let the crowds clear from the Baranco wall. I think the team enjoyed the somewhat scrambly ascent. After this several large ups and downs (by now we were learning about the art of Tanzanian understatement), bought us to our next camp. That evening after careful questioning of Isaac (one of our guides) we discovered that the waiters had been calling me 'grandma' (Bibi). I pointed out that this wasn't technically correct even though they obviously thought I was very old, so I was renamed 'Dada', which confusingly means 'sister'!

Already the summit was looking a lot nearer. Everyone was settling into camp life and acclimatizing very well. We had settled into the routine of checking blood oxygen levels with the pulse oxymeter morning and evening. This is a useful tool for gauging how well the body is adapting to the increasing altitude.

A steady 3 hours uphill took us from Karanga Camp up to Barafu(4650m). After lunch and a through briefing we settled down to rest and prepare for the climb ahead. With a planned midnight wake up we had an early diner at 5pm and then tried to get to sleep early.

Summit day dawned clear and almost windless. Actually we were on our way well before dawn! PoleÖ. pole (slowly.... slowly) we ascended each wrapped in our own thoughts but also aware of the team around us and the unfolding beauty.

At 9:30 am after more than 8 hours of hard work all 15 of us and our 7 amazing Tanzanian Guides stood on Uhuru peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro!

As our lead guide Dawson is fond of saying 'We were blessed'. And however you want to say it, we were, 8 days of perfect weather, no illness, no major acclimatization problems etc, etc. Still as you all know the summit is only half way! So we descended very tired but happy to Barafu Camp had a very brief rest and lunch (dunch I think!) and then walked another 3 hrs to Millenium Camp. A 15 hr day!!!

It felt strange, deflating the thermarest for the last time, and exchanging the normal morning banter with the camp staff, knowing that the trip was almost over. A lovely walk reversing all the altitudinal vegetation zones that we walked through at the start of the trip (a botanists dream) took us in a Tanzanian 5 hrs to the Mweka gate. A slight pity that we mostly had such knackered knees (an orthopedic Surgeon's dream?) and tired legs that we didn't enjoy it to its full potential! But we all enjoyed the cold beer at the gate! We were then treated to the Kilimanjaro song and in turn treated all our staff with tips. Then back to the hotel for the dreamed of showers and an excellent late lunch at the Keys hotel with our guides.

Congratulations to Ben, Mary, Tim, Peter, Paul, Justin(e), Tony, Derek, David, Elizabeth, Joe, Graham, Steven F, and Stephen G, and thanks for your great company. I never did identify the 'trip weirdo! Thanks to our guides Dawson, with his calm confidence inspiring ways, Isaac, Emanuel, Collins, Clemens, Frank and Steven, always ready with a smile or a helping hand! Thanks also to the Cooks, Waiters, Porters etc who made our trip possible and humbled us with their strength (as they ran past us at 4000m!) and cheered us with happy greetings. Hakuna Mattata !

Caroline Ogden, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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