Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 6 to 15 Sep '14

Written by Leader Rob Wymer, October 2014

After gathering together at Amsterdamís Schipol airport from various regional UK departures, we joined forces for the second leg of our KLM flights directly to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania. It was a smooth journey and we arrived in the early evening after dark to be met by the hotel transport. We were whisked the 45 minutes to Moshi and the comfortable Keys Hotel, catching fleeting sights of exciting and wonderful yet strange sights in the headlights on the way. We were welcomed to our rooms and then quickly ordered a late meal together while I went through the briefing for the next day and answered a few questions. We were all a little tired but managed to stay focussed long enough to pack our bags ready for an immediate departure the next morning.

After meeting our local guides and porters, we set off from the Lemosho Gate and set foot on Kilimanjaro! It was a very pleasant walk up through the mountain rain forest, although a little slippery under foot at times as it was lightly raining. Colobus monkeys were crashing through the trees high above us, and even the light drizzle didnít dampen our spirits. Before long we reached our first camp, still within the forest, and our wonderful camping crew had us comfortable with tea, biscuits and popcorn in quick time. This was to be a very pleasant pattern for the following days too! The next day saw the cheeky monkeys coming right to the edge of camp allowing us some great photos before we set off again, leaving the rain-forest and entering the amazing tree-heather zone. Would this be what our heather at home would look like if it were left to grow? The next climatic zone we entered was the moorland one, very reminiscent of the moors at home for some. The walking was interesting and varied but alas we were not to get what would have been superb views on the way. This all changed though once in camp though, for the clouds cleared to give us a lovely afternoon and evening, revealing our first view of the upper reaches of Kilimanjaro ñ the mighty Kibo caldera.

Fine weather was then with us throughout, and we soon found that we had settled into our trekking and camping routine, and for me one of the best parts of this was first thing in the morning when, still in my sleeping bag, I would hear the roars of laughter coming from the larger tent of ëTriple Troubleí; the northern lasses were awake and already having fun! On we trekked, passing the wonderful sights and challenges of Cathedral Peak and the Lava Tower; both exciting tests in their own right, but also important acclimatisation milestones on our quest for summit success.

Next up was the infamous Baranco Wall, or Breakfast Wall. Fortified as ever by excellent food, we waited just a little longer than most before setting out to climb it. This proved a good decision as it was now quieter and warmer too! Fresh from our previous challenges we dispatched the Wall without any problem and in near record time! Soon we were at the top and soaking up the sun whilst taking in some amazing views all around. Breaks in the cloud allowing us to look all the way down to the plains below, and the distant Mt Meru put in an appearance too. Of course we were constantly reminded of our objective as the summit cone of Kilimanjaro dominated the sky behind us!

On our sixth day of trekking we reached Barafu Camp ñ our final one before the summit! Barafu means ëiceí and while there wasnít any on the ground, it was certainly cooler up there, and we knew weíd reached a significant height too. Arriving at lunchtime meant we had plenty of time to eat, hydrate, rest and pack for our summit push that night. Thanks to our excellent ascent profile, we were all fit, acclimatised and raring to go. However, before retiring for the night, there was the important matter of Madelineís birthday to be celebrated! Our cooks had excelled themselves and somehow produced a freshly-made cake! Sporting a birthday sash, Madeline treated us all to a slice of cake and so it was with smiles, as well as summit apprehension, that we went to bed earlyÖ..

All too soon, it was 1130pm and time to get up again. After forcing down some more food, we wrapped up warmly and set off up into the inky blackness of the night. Lines of headtorches snaking in zigzags both preceded and followed us. We made steady progress, overtaking some other groups, but it was hard going. The chilly wind found any gaps in our clothing, and the lack of available oxygen made for breathless progress. But progress we made, and before too long the sky was lightening, and as we reached the crater rim at Stella Point, the sun peeped over the horizon. What a staggering moment! A beautiful sunrise indeed, and fortified by this newfound light and warmth, we set off around the crater rim soon arriving together at Uhuru Peak ñ the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world, and the roof of Africa.

We were elated; all the months of preparation on fitness and kit at home, the long journey to Africa and the days on the mountain slowly trekking to reach this point had all paid off. The views from the top were incredible. Vast ice-cliffs where the glaciers weíd seen previously now started, across into the ash-pit where smoke still occasionally rises, the jagged subsidiary peak of Mawenzi, and faraway Mt Meru still serenely visible, now well below us of course. After much hugging and photo-taking it was time to set off. 5895m is no place to linger after a big height-gain on summit night, so we set off initially down the way weíd climbed that night but then onwards in a direct line off the mountain. It was a long day but we eventually reached Mweka Camp some 2800m lower, in the warm, oxygen-rich air where we stopped for a big feed and a big sleep! The next day saw a short walk to the gate and thence onwards to the hotel and showers! Celebrating with summit certificates and Kilimanjaro beers was a great moment and while some left for home and others stayed for a safari, we were all immensely proud of our achievement.

Massive congratulations to Dene, Brenda, Madeline, Stan, Lorraine, Norma and Gary for their summit success, and also thanks to them for being such fun too!

Rob Wymer, Jagged Globe Expedition Leader.

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