Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades - 11 to 20 Feb '17

Written by Leader Jo Clark, February 2017

Uhuru Peak: Zoe, Ros, Mark, Green, Linas, Liliana
Stella Point: Sally

We began with the bonus of a night in Paris, a chance to meet and share adventures even as our next one began. Next morning we met Green at the boarding gate with coffee to see us through a full day of flying, arriving at the hotel in Moshi at 1am. At dawn the next day, perhaps a little unsure if we were in the Uk, France or Tanzania, we met Linas and Liliana who had arrived a few days earlier and were refreshed and ready to start the adventure.

With the support of local guides Bosco, Thomas, Michael and Charles, kit was checked, bags were weighed, journeys were made and by early afternoon we found ourselves at the Londorossi Gate for weigh-in, lunch and paperwork. Our work was rewarded as we were soon ready to start up the Lemosho glades route through thick cloud forest full of birds, insects and monkeys. Arriving at Big Tree camp (Mti Mkubwa) a few hours later. The tents were up and cups of tea were ready. As the light faded and the temperature dropped we ate a freshly cooked meal full of fruit and veg before retiring for the night to become accustomed to the rhythm and sounds of camp and catch up on some well deserved sleep.

The next few days took us out of the trees onto the Shira Plateau. This quiet section of the route gives a real sense of isolation and feel to the true nature of the mountain. On the second day of the plateau we took a detour to Cathedral Peak. This easy climb with some basic scrambling was rewarded with some of the best views of the trip and much emotion for some the group. It remains for some, their favourite day.

By day 4 we were used to the rhythm of camp life and after porridge, toast and eggs, we were ready to be on the trail at 8am. The tough ascent to Lava Tower is a picturesque climb up into the clouds and minor signs of the altitude were evident across the team as we ascended up to the mess tent pitched and ready for lunch at 4600m. Spending an hour at this higher altitude is hard, but the rewards were reaped as the descent to Baranco Camp took us back down just a little higher than Shira 2 Camp. A 7 hour day makes for a tired but happy group and after another filling dinner, sleep is well deserved.

With the Baranco Wall looming above us, dawn broke with a chill in the air and excitement rippled through the team. For many this was the most memorable day, and everyone moved confidently and efficiently up through the scramble at the beginning towards the top of the wall and views across the plaines towards Mount Meru, just peaking out of the clouds. Arriving at Karanga camp in time for lunch, a relaxing afternoon in the tents, reading, sleeping, washing was greatly appreciated by everyone. Following this superb day we made the short journey to Barafu Camp where we spent the afternoon preparing for the summit; eating what we could, packing and preparing kit, resting when possible; with the excitement of the long night ahead at the back of everyone's mind.

With a great porter team, one of them in particular struck a cord with the team. She was the only female local member of staff and it was her first time on the mountain. She worked hard, carrying the same heavy loads as her counterparts but the support and encouragement she received from everyone around her was touching. Having adapted well to the altitude on her first trip high on the mountain, Eunice plans to continue working as a porter for a few months while she gains experiences, works with a range of different guides saves the money to attend guide school herself. She plans to become one of the few female local guides on the mountain. Everyone in the team wishes her luck with this project.

It was thanks to the support of Eunice, the rest of the porter team and the excellent local guides that the team made it to Barafu Camp. To make it to the summit, each individual dug deep and gave everything they had to climb through the dark. Waking at 11:30 we could hear the thunder snow storm gathering around Camp and the snow was falling heavily as we set off at 12:30. This made for warmer temperatures on the ascent and muffled the sounds around us so that at times early on we felt like the only ones on the mountain - except for the streams of torch lights above and below us indicating where we had come from and where we were going. As the hours ticked by and the ascent continued, the snow stopped falling and a red glow filled the sky. The sun rose a short while before we reached Stella point for a well deserved cup of tea and a rest. Having completed the most challenging part of the climb and celebrated being on the crater rim, Sally returned to camp with Thomas and the rest of the team headed up to the summit, reaching it at 8am.

Photos were taken, views memorised, private moments of reflection taken before turning around and making the long journey back to camp for lunch and a rest. At 1pm the team, with tired eyes and big smiles, were back on the trail for another few hours of descent and an early dinner of excellent chicken and vegetable stew. Weary heads were laid in tents and there was snoring throughout the camp by 8pm.

The final day brought a 7am departure for 3 hours back through the forest and down to Mweka Gate and greatly appreciated motorised journey back to Moshi hotel. The celebratory meal with guides and presentation of certificates to everyone completed the trip and well deserved Kilimanjaro beer sealed the deal. Finally after a week of wet wipes and bowls of water, it was showers all round and some relaxing by the pool before Ros and Sally headed to the airport that night, others at 3am and Linas and Liliana prepared for their safari.

Breathtaking views, fantastic weather, and a fun, exciting, engaging group. These were core elements of this incredible ascent of Kilimanjaro. Add to this; zebras, colobus monkeys and senecio kilimanjari plants; supportive, informed local staff; and a sense of adventure to make this trip a lifelong memory. Congratulations to everyone on the trip for personal and physical achievements, and making this such a fun trip for everyone.

Jo Clark, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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