Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Western Breach 8 to 19 Sep '18

8 September Kilimanjaro Western Breach team

Written by Leader Chris Allewell, September 2018

Temba pole pole, hakuna matata…

‘Walk slowly, slowly, no problem’ is wise Swahili advice, which would only be adapted if the wildlife we were walking amongst turned unfriendly. The giraffe we were about 10 metres from eyed us with mild curiosity before it got on with the more important task of eating its lunch. The baboons continued to preen one another and chatter under the trees and the herd of buffalo frankly just ignored us.

We could continue with pole pole.

Our ascent of Meru was a mini safari. We had only been walking half an hour and had seen zebra, buffalo, warthog, giraffe, baboons as well as multiple different birds from wagtails to hammerkopps. Whilst the wildlife decreased as we climbed upwards towards the comfortable Miriakamba hut the views across the African plains to Kilimanjaro made up for it.

Two days later the Alpine swifts screeching past so close you could hear the passage of their wings were the only visible wildlife (other than us) on the final slopes to the summit of Meru. We had started under the inky blackness of the African night, our headtorches like fireflies weaving a zig zag path up the slopes before the first rays of the sun illuminated the majestic bulk of Kilimanjaro rising from the plains 50 kilometres away and then us. It wasn’t particularly cold, but the first rays imparted a welcome warmth as we clambered upwards.

The small rocky summit of Meru was welcome. The large altitude gains each day meant our bodies were struggling, but this was excellent acclimatisation and with a second night sleeping at the 3500m Saddle hut perfect training for Kilimanjaro.

Several days later we were on Kilimanjaro, the sun had vanished, we had emerged from the giant heather clad slopes into open country and thick clouds swirled around us. I was trying to ascertain the extent of the snows on the Western Breach as reports from other expeditions suggested that the snows earlier in the year had consolidated to hard neve on what is normally an easy rocky scramble. This would change the nature of the route considerably and, if true, make it not suitable for our level of experience. An attempt to view the route from closer up revealed only the insides of a slightly different cloud and we were left pondering. Later, as the moon rose the clouds departed and the snow shone in the moonlight – we wouldn’t be ascending the Western Breach, but the more usual Umbwe route.

The following morning we scrambled up the cool rock of the Baranco wall to Karanga camp where the playful white necked ravens cavorted in the skies displaying their acrobatic skills and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. Onwards to Barafu camp the next day a lammergeier soared over us, so close its blood red eye ring was visible. I considered it a blessing from the mountain gods and sure enough the following morning after a very early start Natalie, Rebecca, Pete, Carl, Richard and Jake, together with myself and local guides Clemence, Charles and Arnold weaved between the penitentes guarding the summit of Kilimanjaro and stood on the summit of Africa.

We didn’t stay long in the cold morning wind and tired but elated headed downwards towards warmth, food and a well deserved rest. This time ignoring the Swahili advice sung so enthusiastically by our camp crew of Temba pole pole, hakuna matata.

My thanks go to the team for being such great company and the amazing group of guides, porters and the unquestionable hero the helicopter man that made everything so smooth on both Meru and Kilimanjaro. Thank you also the Jagged Globe home team for making it all happen and the special raisin and biscuit Yorkie that powered me to the summit : ).

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