Trip Reports

Denali season 2000

Denali summit ridge
Trip Report

Written by Leader, December 2000

Our 7th season of organising trips to "the High One" and yet again, the weather has played a major part in determining the success or failure of those climbing North America's highest and the second most difficult of the 7 summits. Our early team in May faced some characteristically unsettled weather and were prohibited from getting much higher than the 18,000ft. Teams on Denali II, III and IV were successful in reaching the summit, with the weather in June having been the best in the last few years. One team spent 5 nights at the top camp before they were able to make a successful ascent. Perhaps the greatest success of the season was achieved by the Traverse group. 10 of the 11 managed to reach the summit, cross Denali Pass and descend the Muldrow Glacier Route. It is believed that this journey has not been completed by a guided team in 3 years and was felt to be an all round 'full-on' test of stamina and determination. The team had to carry all of their gear and food (including plastic sledges and snow shoes), exchanging trash for extra food with those descending down the regular West Buttress Route. The walk out to Wonder Lake and a crossing of the treacherous river in the cold rain were not considered highlights of the trip! Now back in the UK, one team member showed us some of his fabulous slides from the trip which must rank as one of our hardest expeditions. « Previous report | »

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