Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - 31 Jan to 12 Feb '05

Written by Leader Paul Donovan, February 2005

Success on Mount Meru & Mount Kilimajaro – 31st January to 12th February 2005. The team consisted of:

1. Wayne Cutts
2. Leo Rub
3. Ros Blackmore
4. Ian Watson
5. Richard Thornely
6. Neil Bowmer
7. Brian Matthews

Having met the team in Amsterdam airport (with the exception of Leo), time was not wasted in preparing them for their expedition. They were supplied with a list of kit & clothing for Mount Meru, the opportunity to look at a map of Mount Meru and up-to-date information from the foreign office regarding visitors in Tanzania. Leo met us at Kilimanjaro airport, having flown in from Nairobi after recently climbing Mount Kenya.

The expedition started on the 1st February 2005 with a bus ride to Arusha National Park with our guide, John Mtui and his team of cooks & porters. The expedition team were impressed by the wildlife seen as we headed through the park for Momela Gates. As we left the gates with Moses (our Ranger) for Miriakamba Huts, the rains came, dispersing the wildlife, with the exception of the water buffalo, and concealing the views of Meru ahead of us & Kilimanjaro behind us. The rains were reminiscent of a previous unsuccessful attempt on Meru - one I hoped would not be repeated. Showers continued throughout our trek to Miriakamba Huts, but didn’t dampen the spirits of the team. On arrival at Miriakamba Huts, the sun came out and thankfully remained with us for the remainder of our time on Mount Meru. Moses warned us of buffalo entering the camp at Miriakamba after 21:00. Unsure as to whether to believe this or not, the team were tucked up in bed by 21:00, just in case. However, there is always one that needs that final visit to the toilet. As Ian opened the door of our hut, a little later, he came face to face with two buffalo that were grazing around the table area of the camp – that got the heart racing!! Ian gladly relayed this story to us all come morning.

Gladly the weather had changed for the better and lifted spirits further as we headed for Saddle Huts, arriving in glorious sunshine after a 3 1/2 hour uneventful trek. After a short rest, we all headed for Little Meru, in anticipation of good views of Meru. Unfortunately, we weren’t even privy to views of Rhino Point, let alone Mount Meru, as the cloud was low. We did however have views of a mountain Eagle as it circled above us.

Summit day on Mount Meru was a classic, in terms of weather – a clear mild night which led to an excellent sunrise as we summitted, with all team members present (some a little worse for wear, although 4,500m in three days is no mean feat). The day’s excitement was not over yet. Having returned to Saddle Huts and an early lunch, we headed back to Miriakamba Huts. Moses had received a message over the walkie talkie of sightings of elephant on our trail. We were not disappointed. Some 100 metres off our track, was a small family of elephant, including a baby. What a spectacle!!

Our final day on Mount Meru provided us with the views we were deprived of during our ascent – the vastness of Mount Meru and the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro. As we got closer to the plains, we took a slight detour to view an impressive 70ft waterfall before trekking back across the plains, amongst the wildlife of Arusha National Park to Momela Gates. The team were in good spirits & up for their next challenge – Mount Kilimanjaro. One down, one to go.

The 5th February saw the start of our ascent on Mount Kilimanjaro. After a bumpy bus ride to the Umbwe Gates, we had an interesting trek through forest, rich in endemic trees and flowers to Forest Caves Camp. Despite previous bad press about the camp, the team were suitably impressed and indicated that this camp was ‘under-rated’. Even the toilets received high marks for cleanliness & smell.

As day two on Mount Kilimanjaro developed, the shear scale of the mountain became apparent. The team were blown away by what they saw – the changing ecosystems (Forest, Heather, Moorland), the ridge up to Barranco Camp and the close up views of Mount Kilimanjaro & the Western Breach.

Our rest day at Barranco Camp saw us scramble up Barranco Wall & onward up a rocky rib towards the Heim Glacier, reaching 4,300m. The team were acclimatising well with all feeling fit and well. The remainder of the day found Neil determined to photograph the ‘scarlet-tufted malachite sun bird’ as it perched itself on one of the giant ‘lobelia deckenii’ – unlucky Neil, maybe next time. As night fell at Barranco Camp, the cloud that had been with us for most of the afternoon dispersed, providing glimpses of Mount Kilimanjaro and the Western Breach. This gave a real atmospheric feel to our location.

Barranco Camp to Arrow Camp blessed us with sunshine, warm temperatures, light winds and fabulous views back down the Barranco and across to Lava Tower. On reaching Arrow Camp, the cloud came in sporadically, leaving us the occasional glimpse of our route up the Western Breach. Sunset out towards Mount Meru was a picture!!

Summit day started early for us – 01:30, with the team very supportive of one another throughout. Slowly but steadily we ascended, emerging onto the crater rim at 06:00, a mere 4 1/2 hours. The team were ecstatic. Ian & Brian were feeling it a little as we spent some time at the foot of Uhuru Peak gaining our breath and adding to our clothing. The sun was not yet up and temperatures were about -10oC with light winds. At 06:30 we started the final push – 195 metres to go and by 07:30 we had arrived at the highest point in Africa – Uhuru Peak, Mount Kilimajaro (5,895m) just as the sun was rising. The team were elated and so they should be. They had worked exceptionally hard and were deserving of many congratulations. We spent a whole hour at the summit, taking in the ambiance of the moment, as well as many photographs. The descent was as swift as our ascent, reaching the Barafu Hut by 10:00 and the Millennium Huts by 11:30, our final destination for the day. As the day continued, it became more apparent to the team what they had achieved as it started to sink in.

The final day saw a three hour walk to the Mweka Gates during which time we saw a solitary monkey high up in one of the many trees. After signing the book at the gates, it was ‘in the face’ with the entourage of local souvenir sells, with their unique opportunities to purchase their goods at “a very good price”. The bus was waiting for us in the village and by 12:00 we were back at the Keys Hotel with two things on our mind – a hot shower and a cold beer.

Throughout the trip, the playing of cards, particularly Uno, featured almost every night for all team members. During a review of the expedition with the team, when asked of a memorable experience Ros could only come up with and I quote “the leader cheats at Uno”. A comment I categorically deny – she’s a fine one to talk. On a serious note, it was also said that this trip has been “a true African experience”.

Well done to all the team.

Paul Donovan, expedition leader « Previous report | Next report »

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