Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - 21 Feb to 5 Mar '06

Written by Leader Caroline Ogden, March 2006

At 7:15 am on Thursday 2 March Sandy, Glen, Amy Haines [Jagged Globe staff - Ed], Jason, Helen, Velda, Kim, Kevin, Deborah and Nick, in the company of Expedition Leader Caroline Ogden, Local Guide Erick Massane, and assistant guides Francis Mtui and Dickson Deya reached the highest point in Africa, the Uhuru Summit of Mt Kilimanjaro (5,895m)!

This was an outstanding achievement as the 7hr ascent from Barafu Camp had been accomplished in "Scottish" conditions - strong winds, zero visibility and heavy snowfall! On reaching the summit many photos of the team with rimmed hair and eyebrows were taken and a happy 50th birthday cake produced for Deborah!

This was one of the many high points of an 11-day trip that began with a climb of the nearby Mt Meru (4,556m). This started with a hot walk up to Miriakamba Hut (2,500m) in the company of Mathias our "armed guard". Walking across a meadow with a herd of several dozen Cape buffalo, Mathias pointed out Acacia Trees, various exotic birds and what we called the Imodium bush! After the 3hr walk we were served popcorn and tea. Deborah was suffering from the affects of the long journey and extreme heat (in comparison to winter in England). The next day we walked up to the Saddle Hut (3,500m), 4hrs at a very sensible "Pole..pole" (Slowly...slowly) pace to aid acclimatisation. At Tea, Ian chose the leaky tin mug yet again! This mug followed us around the entire trip! In the afternoon we all strolled up little Mt Meru (3,820m).

At 2am everyone except Deborah, who had decided to rest and recover from heat stroke, set off for the summit of Meru. The difficulties and altitude of the climb took a toll, with plenty of 'scrambly' ground, so the team all arrived at the summit between 8 and 9am. That evening back at Miriakamba Hut a few beers and some scotch completed the day.

On Sunday 26 February we started on Kilimanjaro, with a long hot walk through rainforest to Forest Caves at 3,000m (6.5hrs), enlivened by the beautiful Kilimanjaro Impatiens and my lateral thinking problems! The next day was another longish day to Baranco Camp (3,900m, 5hrs), arriving just before the rain and entertaining ourselves with "Uno" in the mess tent and throwing stones on the tin roof of the toilet when Kevin was in residence.

Here the usual itinerary has changed due to the current closure of the Western Breach route [See News section/itinerary - Ed]. We scrambled up the impressive Baranco Wall and walked round to Karanga Camp (4hrs). Here we had an impressive lunch of Chicken, Chips and Banana fritters. After which Sandy amused us with his experiments using the blood oxygen/pulse meter, whilst doing push ups and knee bends at 4,100m! Another short day (3hrs) took us to Barafu Camp (4,600m) ready for the summit early that morning. A 12:15am departure enabled us to reach the summit in time for day break. Ian Reakes turned around below Stella Point, having decided he had nothing in reserve. He is planning to return next year! The descent that followed back to Barafu then on to Mweka Hut (3,100m) that day was tiring but also scenic.

The final day was a beautiful walk through the jungle to Mweka Village. That afternoon at the hotel we had a presentation of tips and certificates, which was made particularly moving by the porters singing the Kilimanjaro song for us.

We were all extremely impressed by the food, service and friendliness of all the local staff. Velda did not manage to convince Dickson (Assistant Guide) that she was worth more than 15 cows (as a dowry), but she did try!

The trip was rounded off with an excellent night at the Keys Hotel and all of us dancing to the local music, much to the amusement of the hotel staff. The contrast with the natural grace and movement of the Tanzanians and us throwing our bodies around was striking to say the least.

Thank You and Congratulations to all the team! Perhaps the Tanzanian "Hakuna Mattata" is a good way to approach all life's mountains, real or metaphorical!

Caroline Ogden, Expedition Leader/IFMGA Mountain Guide.« Previous report | Next report »

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