Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - 4 to 16 Sep '06

Written by Leader Tom Parkin, September 2006

The flight into Arusha from Amsterdam passed quickly, most of the team catching up on sleep. At the Keys Hotel we quickly settled into our rooms and ate a very pleasant evening meal. The following morning we met our head guide and quickly took our transport over to Arusha National Park. Formalities were soon over and we crossed the savannah and went up through rainforest to the Mirikambu Huts. On the way we passed warthogs, water buffalo, baboons, and distant giraffes. Our Park Ranger was very knowledgeable, and armed with a rifle against any temperamental animals.

Mt Meru looked like a mountaineer’s mountain as we made our way through the rain forest. We dropped our kit off at the Saddle Huts. The team was acclimatising well, although the height gained, in two days, was taking its toll. After a brief rest we ascended Little Meru, a fine subsidiary peak to the main mountain massif.

All too excited we had little sleep as we left the huts for the climb to the summit at midnight. We were fortunate, however, to have a perfectly clear night sky and an almost-full moon. The mountainside was bathed in an ethereal light, making what little rock scrambling there was much easier to negotiate. By the time we reached the extinct volcano rim we suffered our first case of altitude related fatigue. As the team slowly made its way around the remains of the crater, and steadily gained height towards the summit, a few more rested by the wayside. Even so we were all treated to a magnificent sunrise over distant Kilimanjaro and were fortunate enough to witness a temperature inversion over the plains, leaving the clouds like a sea below us. Half of us made the summit and enjoyed a few minutes rest in the increasingly warm, and surprisingly still wind.

Whilst descending the mountain the day really warmed up and tired legs were well used by the time the team had hiked all the way back down to the Mirikambu Huts, a long but very satisfying day.

The following day we walked back down to the Park Gate, being treated to a close encounter with a familly of giraffes, the male in particular looking down his long nose at us all. At the park gates we received our certificates, thanked our porters for their hard work and caught our transport back to Moshi.

The next morning we set off for Kilimanjaro National Park, the weather having turned against us a little. The mountain was obscured by cloud and a pattern began to emerge of clear, early mornings followed by rising cloud that closed in quite rapidly, and blotted out the views. After the formalities at the National Park Gate we began the long, steep trek through the bush and rain forest to the first camp site: Forest Caves. We were fortunate in that it didn’t rain as the camp is confined to a small clearing in the rain forest. We were sure, however, that in bright sunshine it would feel completely different.

The next day we trekked higher still, in parts following a knife edged ridge up through the moorland heath. We arrived at Barranco Camp just in time to see the mists clear and the Western Breach, summit glaciers and Uhuru Peak itself appear above us. Another early night was in order, tired legs needed resting, but otherwise the team was gelling very well and everyone was generally feeling better for having previously acclimatised on Mt. Meru.

As a result of a recent tragedy, and the closure of the Western Breach route, we used the Barafu Route instead. We had an easier third day following the South Circuit path beneath the glaciers, with little vertical ascent. We first climbed an interesting ledge system across and up the Barranco Wall. It was made all the more entertaining when faced with speedier porters hastening past at inopportune moments. From the top of the wall we continued our traverse around to Karanga Camp.

Our fourth day was a short rising traverse up to Barafu Camp. Once again the mists closed in, after a bright start to the day, and we all took shelter from the damp cold in the welcome and roomy mess tent. Though most rested in the afternoon a couple of us took the opportunity to climb some 500m higher, to help the process of acclimatisation. After another excellent evening meal we all went to our beds early and rose again at 11pm, ready to leave for the attempt on the summit. As on Mt. Meru, it was a cold night but with stars lighting the way once more, along with a gradually waning full moon.

Unfortunately we lost our first team member as we were about half way up to Stella Point. As on Mt. Meru altitude had an effect and with regret one of the team went down. A second was to follow, though not far below Stella Point, a past knee injury forcing an increasingly slower pace and eventually a sensible return to camp.

Dawn was not far off as we reached the summit rim at Stella Point. There was a noticeable drop in body temperature, with the onset of wind chill. This on top of temperatures of –15C at the summit, with a wind of between 5 – 10mph. Grim determination and excellent team dynamics meant that everyone left made it to the summit, just before dawn. We all saw the sunrise through a swirling sea of cloud, truly spectacular!

Even as we were descending at least one of the party began to feel the effects of altitude. Everyone felt better, however, as we lost height quickly, stopping briefly at Barafu Camp 9 hours after setting off. With some paracetemol thrown in and a further reduction in height to Mweka Camp, for the night, all traces of altitude sickness were forgotten. A very good, and early night’s sleep was had by all! « Previous report | Next report »

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