Trip Reports

Xtreme Everest - 5 to 17 May '07

Written by Leader Tom Parkin, June 2007

I met most of the members of Xtreme Everest’s Trek K at the Pre Expedition weekend. Straight away they distinguished themselves by their good nature and sense of humour, both a mark of the trek to come.

Most flew in to Kathmandu from Heathrow without incident and on arrival at the Summit Hotel were treated to a formal Buddhist welcome. After our first night at the hotel getting to know everyone in the team, most chose to sightsee once the formal testing was completed.

A very early start the following morning saw us grounded at Kathmandu airport for a while. Whilst there some of the more astute of the team spotted Bear Grills also waiting to fly out. We were to run across him later at Pheriche as well. Eventually we were able to fly in to Lukla, where we joined our Sirdar and porters. The weather was cloudier and more threatening than I had expected, though this meant for more pleasant walking all the way to the town of Namche Bazar. This was the gateway to Everest and the last chance for Cyber Cafes, great coffee and chocolate cake from the Everest Bakery. The Medical team were very welcoming even though they submitted everyone to two days of stiff testing. Much to everyones’ regret we also lost Henrik due a recurrence of a previous illness.

From Namche we spent another two days walking further into the shadows of huge mountains, only on this trek many of the views were obscured by frequent cloud. Slowly we changed ecosystems, from the pinewoods and rhododendron forests, to the more barren landscapes of high alpine desert and glaciers.

Once at Pheriche there were another two days of testing, though this time enlivened by Bear Grill’s GKN attempt to fly above the height of Everest, using a powered paraglider. The team were treated to an impromptu party as the GKN crew celebrated at our lodge afterwards. The team were further depleted, however, when first Janet, and then Louise, were obliged to withdraw from the trek. In both instances they did so reluctantly but following considered medical advice.

The walk to Lobuche was relatively straightforward for the remainder of the team, and the days to Gorak Shep and Base Camp were short by comparison. As it was we even surprised our welcoming committee by arriving early! Having settled in to our tents we then became aquainted with Base Camp and settled in to the testing routine.

The weather was generally colder than my previous visit and it even took to snowing during the day. On our second day there some of the team managed to fit in a hike up to Pumo Ri Base Camp, with reasonable views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Testing over it was time for the Medics party, apparently the best to date, which included our various songs and an alternative version of Kipling’s “If”, penned by Richard.

A few of us left even earlier of the morning of our departure for Dingboche, in order to ascend to Pumo Ri Camp 1. Here the BBC Horizon team were operating a TV relay station that enabled us to see the Summit Team up at Everest Camp 3. They were obviously above the cloud in glorious sunshine, though we saw nothing of it from beneath an extended blanket of grey. On our decent, however, the skies cleared and we were treated to magnificent views up the Western Cwm, of the Everest massif. It was difficult to avoid taking an enormous amount of photos!

Two more days of easier hiking saw us back in Namche for a more subdued party atmosphere and the last of the souvenir shopping. Our walk in to Lukla was uneventful; though somewhat fraught with the knowledge that one previous trek had already been stranded there due to inclement weather. As it was we were lucky and flew out on time back in to Kathmandu without any incident. There followed another evening celebrating Tony’s true birthday.

Whilst it was a real loss to the team to have to say goodbye to three of its members, it was a real pleasure to trek with such interesting and committed individuals. The good humour and perseverance shown by all did much to ensure that as many people as possible may it all the way to Base Camp and back.

Tom Parkin
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