Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - 23 Jul to 4 Aug '07

Written by Leader Ron Holt, August 2007

This was the first expedition of the busy summer season. Although all team members had set their sights on reaching the summit of Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach, this route was still closed following the rock fall in 2006. Subsequent and more recent earth tremors in the locality have prevented the route being re-opened. Nevertheless, the revised itinerary provided an equally enthralling expedition beginning at the Umbwe Gate and then traversing the mountain on the Southern Circuit to Karanga Camp. The summit bid would be made up the left side of the ridge from Barafu Camp towards Stella Point and onto the crater rim to Uhuru, before returning by the same route to Millenium Camp and onto to Mweka Gate.

Although the group size was relatively small the service we received from our guides Arnold, Julius and their team of cooks and porters was first class. As usual with all of our Kilimanjaro trips, we acclimatised on Mt Meru, situated in the beautiful Arusha National Park. This extinct volcano is Africa’s fifth highest peak and is in itself a challenging climb. On entering the park we were privileged to see giraffes, zebras, buffaloes, warthogs and a variety of bird life, as well as excellent close-up images of giraffes and bushbucks. This provided a flavour of what the team could expect on Safari as all six had booked the 4-day extension.

The tracks up to both Miriakamba and Saddle Huts have been substantially improved and with the good dry weather we were experiencing, the team arrived for the summit attempt in good spirits. Scaling little Meru allowed the first glimpses of snow-covered Kilimanjaro, as well as excellent views of Mt Meru itself, the classic cone structure, and of course Rhino Point. The ascent of Mt Meru is always challenging and the team found it hard going. However, everyone was impressed by the summit views despite cloud and mist rolling in from time to time obscuring Kilimanjaro. Nevertheless the weather continued to remain dry and we returned to Momella Gate via a detour to the impressive 70ft waterfall and more close up images of the wildlife before continuing onto the Keys Hotel for well deserved showers and drinks (I’m not sure Dan or Jon kept to ‘just the one or two’ guidelines?).

The next day saw the start of our trek to Kilimanjaro beginning with a short drive to the Umbwe Gate. From here it takes several hours of walking through thick mist-filled forest to reach the camp at Forest Caves, and then a further day’s walk through heather and moorland to reach the open plains of the Barranco Camp. Despite misty weather we were treated to excellent views of Kilimanjaro and the route over the Barranco Wall. With a relatively early start the team found no problem in scaling the ‘Wall’, the only danger coming from porters carrying their large loads and attempting to knock you off! From the top of the Barranco Wall the team were in good spirits and acclimatising well. It also provided an opportunity to view the Southern Circuit route over to Karanga Camp, as well as limited views of both the Rebman and Heim Glaciers. A short sharp climb out of the Karanga Valley leads to the camp and again better and much closer views of Kilimanjaro and its glaciers. The quietness of this slightly more remote camp was disrupted on many occasions by the piercing sound of loud laughter and statements of incredulity arising from one particular card game that appeared to bring out the competitiveness of Jon in particular. Shouts of ‘where’s my hat’ will forever be remembered as a special moment in Dan’s life (as well as our own). It’s amazing how altitude affects people!

Moonrise over Karanga Camp heralded good clear skies and stable weather for the next couple of days and the team were not disappointed by the sunrise over Kilmanjaro the next morning, which also afforded excellent views of Mt Meru, as well as Kilimanjaro’s shadow on the clouds far below. A short walk up to Barafu camp followed reaching our destination at 4,555m in only 3 hrs. However, it is from this point that the effects of altitude began to be noticed. Nonetheless despite the short amount of sleep, we left the camp at 12.15am to make a slow, steady and never-ending climb up the ridge towards Stella Point which was reached at sunrise. The final push along the crater rim allowed Uhuru Peak (5,895m) to be reached by 6.45am. Blessed by almost a full moon, this certainly added to the atmosphere of the ascent. At Uhuru Peak the traditional photographs were taken, individual as well as group, before the 3hr descent back to Barafu Camp for a short rest and before continuing our journey onto Millenium Camp for that well-deserved cold drink and even a beer or two!

Ron Holt, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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