Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - 10 to 22 September '07

Written by Leader Alex Williams, September 2007

After a long day of travel, the black Tanzanian night hid its secrets from us as we were whisked to the sanctuary of the Keys Hotel. Unfortunately, as most of the team tucked into king fish, prawns and chicken, the Scottish contingent (Andy Mc., Grant and Brian), were checking out the sights of Amsterdam, due to a delayed flight from Edinburgh.

When our first African day arrived we were reassured. Our head guide Tom made arrangements for Clemence, his assistant, to wait for the Scots and bring them on to Meru.

So we departed. The last 10km to Momela Gate was a mini safari, with giraffe, zebra, buffalo and warthog almost close enough to touch. As we set off on foot, we were escorted by ranger Anthony, with a large rifle, just in case any of the wildlife felt like touching us!

The ascent of Mt. Meru (4,566m) was tougher than many expected, especially straight out of the UK with no real rest. Over two days we ascended through lush bush and cloud forest hung with lichens, to reach Little Meru (3,800m) on our second afternoon. From here we could see the ridge line we would begin in the pre-dawn dark, and, a looming presence in the distance, the snow capped summit plateau of Kilimanjaro.

After a good meal in the Saddle Point Hut, we clambered into bunks for a few hours’ rest. We set off at 1.30am in good spirits, a fresh breeze enticing us on. All negotiated the slabs beyond Rhino Point, and three hours in we were making good progress along the crater rim. Unfortunately at this point, Surinder perfected the art of sleeping while standing up, and dropped back with guide Freedom. Despite some nausea, the rest of the team arrived at the summit in bright daylight. Banana fritters on return to the hut were very welcome, before we dropped down to the rich oxygen of Miriakamba.

On the way down we met the Scots, who were determined to summit Meru and descend to Moshi in a day. In the event, Grant wisely decided to save his energy, while Andy and Brian went all the way.

Our return to The Keys was brief, before setting out next morning for the main event. Two days of remote trekking through forest and giant heather, the ridge ever narrowing, brought us to the great Barranco Wall. In the evening, cloud cleared enough for us to glimpse the glaciers up close, and to pick out the line of tomorrow’s scramble. The scramble is easier than it looks, the only hinderance being traffic, as a few hundred porters make their way up! (The Machame and Umbwe routes join here).

A wet night in Karanga was followed by beautiful sunshine into Barafu. Here we were able to dry kit, breath the thin air at 4,650m, and prepare for our summit attempt.

After a delicious stew we bedded down at 5.30pm and tried to sleep until 11.15. Fortified with porridge – ‘the food of summiteers’ – we set out at 12.20. Sheila, despite a bad chest, set a perfect pace to keep us warm, but not gasping (too much!) It’s a long pull, 1,300m up scree, whatever way you look at it, but dawn saw us all at Stella Point, in a wonderland of hoare frost and ice fins, lit in pink and gold. In a dream we made the final traverse of the crater rim, as the bright blue of a cloudless sky took hold. It felt fantastic to have the whole team together at Uhuru Peak (5,895m). For some this was a very emotional moment.

We enjoyed the sensation of standing on the roof of Africa for 40mins, before the long scree run back to camp. After a quick nap and pancakes, we continued to descend, to the peace (and celebratory beers) of Millennium Camp, at the tree line.

Back in Moshi the next afternoon we were hit by the full heat and colour of Tanzania.

The team were truly that – we had 100% success on Kilimanjaro because everyone was prepared to dig deep, to look out for their fellow trekkers, and to have a laugh all the way (humourous references to the ‘long drop’ are banned on return to the UK). Well done all, and thanks for your company,

Alex Williams
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