Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 11 to 20 Aug '08

Dawn on summit day - Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades

Written by Leader, September 2008

Our first day started with a small disappointment. Assuming that we needed to be there two hours prior to departure, those who gathered at Heathrow at 4.30 am were surprised to find that KLM only required us to turn up forty five minutes before the flight set off! I can’t remember an hour of sleep seeming so precious! Nevertheless this was soon forgotten as with growing excitement we boarded the flight to Amsterdam and our meeting with Nick and the Irishmen. The connection to Kilimanjaro International Airport almost went without a hitch. Sadly, Marie found that her luggage had failed to make the trip with her and was forced to join a line of other dejected KLM customers at lost property. Unfortunately the luggage would only arrive at the Key’s Hotel once we had returned from the summit.

However the combination of borrowed clothes, hired sleeping bag and a heck of a lot of spirit meant that Marie summited in good style (and boots several sizes too big)! The staff at the Key’s Hotel looked after us well. Not only did they provide us with food and drink around the clock but they also provided us with the comfort needed before climbing a big mountain! Importantly, the hotel did its upmost to minimise the risks of mosquito bites – the prime source of malaria in this part of Africa. With mosquito nets and window covers firmly in place we were all able to sleep safely during our first night under African skies.

Next morning we headed off by truck to the start of the Lemosho Glades route. Along the way Erick, our senior guide, stopped at regular intervals to pick up his assistant guides, kitchen crew and porters. In all 46 would be needed! On seeing the mountain a few days later we realised that our chances of reaching the top would be cut dramatically if any got lost! Eventually we made it to the start of the route and for the next two days we were treated to a magical walk through rainforest and moorland. The first afternoon was a particular highlight, trekking through swathes of rich green foliage, dotted with brilliant, bright flowers. A favourite of mine was the Impatiens Kilimanjari, an intricate red and yellow flower only found on the lower slopes of the mountain.

Soon though we emerged into alpine desert and spent our second night on the edge of the Shira crater. This was christened by the Irishmen as “Frost Camp” and gave us not only the first views of the mountain, but also a taste of the cold conditions that we could expect later.

From here we traversed the western slopes of the mountain, crossing glacial streams and rocky ribs before eventually descending into the Baranco valley. This must surely be one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. Bound by the icy slopes of the mountain to the west and the lowlands of Tanzania to the east, the Baranco valley is studded with Senecia Kilimanjari and Lobelia Dickeni – a welcome sight after a couple of days of hard walking through the barren landscape of the alpine desert.

Unfortunately it was at Baranco Camp that Andrew had to withdraw. However with the help of our local guides, Faustine and Livingstone, he was able to make a rapid exit and avoid the worst effects of altitude. Probably the greatest danger he encountered was not on the mountainside but in the ambulance that took him from the park gates to Moshi! A real white knuckle ride! To add to this, Andrew then looked up the complications of altitude sickness on Wikepedia and frightened himself all over again! Fortunately Tom, his son, would eventually summit and ensure that at least one family member made it to the top! The following day we encountered our first scrambling. Some 200 metres of “hands out of pockets” effort saw us comfortably above the 4000m mark.

This provided us with ample opportunity to acclimatise in readiness for the next couple of days. From Karanga Camp we had our first views of Mera out to the west and the route to the summit. A steep sweaty walk the next day took us to Barafu Camp and the start of our summit day. After lunch most went to bed, however a few hardy members stayed up with two members of our kitchen crew, Paul and Hamza, to play Jenga. Unfortunately the altitude had a negative effect and led to a series of rash decisions and unsteady hand movements, particularly from Mick and James. The result? Some of the shortest games of Jenga ever seen!

Eventually we all settled down for a snooze and were woken at 11pm by Erick and his assistant guides Babu, Douglas and Orest. At midnight we were finally ready. Although the wind had stilled, the lack of cloud cover meant that temperatures had crept down to -15 degrees C and caused fingers and toes to quickly lose their warmth. Louise for one, battled bravely with the agony of “hot aches”. Nevertheless she continued on cheerfully and climbed to the top in great style. Others also struggled. Sore knees, aching backs and the effects of altitude all took their toll. However at just after 0730 on the 18th August 2008 we had made it! With Erick and the help of his team, all 12 of us were on the summit! A fantastic achievement for everyone involved!

Whilst the ascent of the mountain was largely completed in good weather, the same cannot be said for the descent. Following Erick’s advice, we decided to skip Millennium Camp and head down to Mweka Camp for our last night on the mountain. This meant an ascent of almost 1300m followed by 2800m of descent! As you can imagine, spirits were sagging on arrival at Mweka Camp! These were not helped by the weather that was more in keeping with spring in the Lake District or North Wales rather than a few hundred kilometres south of the equator!

Nevertheless an early night led to a prompt start the next morning and despite slippery conditions we were all at the park gates by lunchtime. Erick’s advice had been spot on – stopping at Millennium Camp would have put our flight at risk and the long descent the previous day had been worth it! At the park gates we were treated to the sales pitches of hundreds of vendors selling their wares. Although we ignored most, few could resist the youngsters who offered to clean our mud-caked shoes. By the time they had finished with Nick he looked like he had bought a new pair of boots! Looking back now, this ascent of Kilimanjaro has been one of my favourite times in the mountains. The combination of a fantastic route and wonderful company means that this adventure will live on in my memory for many, many years. However without Erick and his team none of this would have been possible. Asante!

Jeremy Windsor, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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