Trip Reports

Muztag Ata 2001

At c6,000m on Muztag Ata
Trip Report

Written by Leader Peter Thompson, September 2001

Out of the six climbers, only Ben Fender and leader Peter Thompson reached the summit on August 17 on this years Jagged Globe expedition to Muztag Ata (7,546m). After the usual approach from Pakistan along the Karakoram Highway, base camp at 4,450m was reached on August 2. From here, a well stocked camp 1, just below the snow line at 5,350m, was quickly established with the help of the local Kirghiz and their donkeys.

Above camp 1, expedition members have to do all the load carrying and camp 2 was placed at 6,300m after a series of carries, interspersed with rest days at camp 1, ensuring good acclimatisation.

Muztag Ata is a very popular mountain and a number of climbers from different expeditions reached the summit during this period of generally good weather.

On August 13, five of us moved up to camp 2. Unfortunately, the weather now took a turn for the worse, with heavy snow fall and high winds. With little improvement on August 15, the rest of the team decided to descend, whilst Ben and I moved up using snow shoes, to establish camp 3 (6,800m) in extreme conditions.

After another day of storm, August 17 dawned clear, a sea of clouds below us. With the mountain to ourselves, the summit was reached at 1pm.

We returned to base camp on August 19, after clearing what remained on the mountain and left base camp on August 22.

Having worked hard, the members who hadn't summited were disappointed, but philosophical at having their summit attempt thwarted by bad weather. It had been a challenging adventure in a fascinating part of the world.« | »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.

Categories
Archives
 
Follow Us:
1