Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 27 Dec - 5 Jan '09

Dawn on summit day - Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades
Trip Report

Written by Leader Jane Horobin, January 2009

Day 1. The day after Boxing Day the whole team met together for the first time at the baggage carousel in Kilimanjaro airport; Bob had remained a mystery until that time, being the only member of the team not to over-night in Amsterdam. The rest had bonded very well over burgers and chips. Of course, being a friendly and positive group Bob was soon gathered into the fold and an air of solidarity in purpose settled upon the team and remained throughout the trip.

Day 2. After a good meal, a welcome night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast at the Key’s hotel we set off with our guides Thomas, Lyimo and James. Today was to prove slightly frustrating, as we were plagued with delays for the most obscure of reasons. When we reached the Londorossi Gate more porters were chosen and searched and every single piece of carried baggage was once again weighed. Meanwhile the heavens opened and we took shelter in the buses. Time passed Africa style and eventually our buses were moving ‘pole pole’ up muddy roads towards the starting point where we would begin our trek to Big Tree camp. As luck would have it five minutes up the road it was decided the rain had rendered the road impassable by the hotel buses and Thomas said we would have to stand at the side of the track and wait for a more suitable vehicle for that terrain to take us to the starting point. By that time everyone had had quite enough of delays and bouncing around in buses and we just wanted to get out and walk. We were one-hour walk away from the starting point and there was nothing to be gained time wise by waiting for the bus. Everyone was keen to get started so we made a unanimous decision to begin walking.

It didn’t take us long to appreciate that the region has just had its rainy season; we slipped and slid as the path wound its way up and down through the lush, green forest to Big Tree Camp. Foremost in mind was the added concern that we needed to reach camp before night fell: four head torches between twelve people would have to suffice but the ground was quite treacherous in places. Therefore a certain amount of relief was felt as we arrived at our destination with ten minutes to spare and just enough light left for the group to find their tents and settle in.

Day 3. (Big Tree Camp to Shira 1 Camp) dawned bright and clear with a gentle breeze and the promise of a pleasant day’s walking as we woke to the sounds of the forest. Fuelled by an unexpectedly delicious breakfast the group set off enthusiastically to tackle the steep slope affectionately known amongst the guides as the ‘Elephant’s Back.’ Emerging from the scrubby bushes of said ‘elephant’ onto the Shira Caldera Plateau we all caught our first proper glimpse of our destination, the Kibo Peak. It looked awesomely BIG!! Excitement and apprehension really started kicking in and there were many questions to be answered over the evening meal that night.

Day 4. (Shira 1 to Shira 2 Camp) saw most people emerging from their sleeping bags after a fitful night’s sleep at a colder altitude, but promisingly there were no bad headaches and group morale remained intact. The group were promised a gentler day today and they were not disappointed. The rugged, boulder-strewn land sloped gradually upwards and traversed round the mountain offering us a wealth of photographic opportunities. Three and three quarter hours passed quickly through chatting and experiencing the beauty of the land and we arrived at Shira 2 in a well relaxed mood, everyone agreeing that they were a great team and to crown it all off the toilets were rather plush in comparison to what had gone before.

It was Andrew’s 32nd birthday so a cake was in order. The cooks excelled themselves by producing a chocolate cake of mouth-watering magnificence that was enjoyed by all. It even had candles on it. Then, after everyone, cooks, guides, the whole lot of us sung ‘Happy Birthday’ to Andrew, he proved he still had enough breath at altitude to do the job justice.

Day 5. (Shira 2 to Baranco Camp via the Lava Tower) was likened to four seasons in one day. An amazing day of shrouding mists, blizzards and breath taking views when the clouds parted; and always the changing aspect of Kilimanjaro as we journeyed East along her sparkling white streaked flanks. Getting bigger and closer. Significantly, it was also New Year’s Eve so there was much celebration as we brought in the New Year early according to where we should be at 9 o’clock ~ it had been a pretty exhausting day. What with ascending to the highest point to date (4600) and the chill stormy weather just before the Lava Tower we were ready to crash wearily into our tents. However, there were a few different nationalities in camp judging by the regular stream of whistles and singing. No one outdid the locals though, when it was their turn the whole camp joined in and it was just like one big party. If it wasn’t so cold we might have been tempted to join in more than the muffled rumbles from inside our bags. We did all flash our head torches 12 times in wild abandonment though and we tried to sing Auld Lang Syne, despite not being able to exactly remember the words or the tune, but we didn’t care ~ the Brits know how to celebrate in style.

Day 6. (Baranco to Karanga Camp via the Baranco Wall) an angry thunderous rumbling pulled everyone from sleep; our wake up call today was a grim reminder of the power of the mountain. Avalanche! Leaving a bite shaped empty space under the snow like a hungry giant had breakfasted on the icy wall.

We had been promised a late start and a bit of a long lie in today to avoid the traffic jam on the wall, but it was still pretty crowded and it was slow going. The terrain was far rockier than we had experienced up till now and there were lots of little sections of interesting scrambling. It was necessary to concentrate on foot placements.

It was a tired and hungry bunch that reached Karanga Camp, but hot lunch soon took care of that, and after soup and toasted cheese sandwiches we were fully recharged and chatting happily about the day’s events and how well everyone had coped.

By this time our routine was well established. The most important activities outside of the actual trekking being copious quantities of tea in the afternoon and ‘Who am I’ after supper, and, of course, searching out the best toilet at each campsite. Mealtimes were an ideal chance for discussion of the day just passed or the day ahead, how people were feeling and a time for reassurances. It was also a time to reconfirm that we were strong and we were going to be a group at the top of the mountain.

Day 7. (Karanga to Barafu Camp) Barafu means ice in Swahili and they are not far wrong. We all had a very cold night and not enough sleep.

After a short trek of three hours continuous uphill we reached Barafu. Hot lunch was again welcome. The toilets here defied description. After lunch most of us had a nice little snooze in the sun. Dinner at 5 O’clock and then whatever sleep would come before we rose from our tents at 11pm to face the challenge.

Day 8. (Barafu to Uhuru via Stella Point) at midnight, after the usual copious tea and biscuits, slightly headachy from lack of sleep we blessed the calm conditions as we lined up behind Thomas Meela. Then, armed with flasks of hot sweet tea and warm layers we trudged off silently into the faceless dark. Guided by the clear starry heavens above and the rhythm of the feet in front we fought our way slowly upward on strength sapping scree slopes. The hours grew longer and colder ~ the darkest hour really is before dawn. Hot sweet tea, flapjacks and chocolate helped us to battle on against the cold wind. Then, just when we needed it most the rising sun fuelled our energies and with bloody-minded determination we reached first Stella Point at 7am and then Uhuru Peak at 8.10am. We jumped up and down, some of us cried; we took photographs of the fantastic views. We had all made it ~ WOW!!

After half an hour on the top we could put it off no longer and we began the long descent downhill. Everyone agreed that they were glad the ascent had been in the dark and the magnitude of the task had been hidden wholly from view. It was a long tedious trek back down the steep scree on tired legs, but the promise of a hot lunch and a well-earned kip was enough incentive to keep going.

Lunch, warm sun and sleep refreshed the team for the last journey of the day ~ three hours to Mweka Camp and a warm beer or a coke, before dinner and deep dreamless sleep. Total walking time that day was fifteen hours. Time from start to finish was eighteen hours.

Day 9. (Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate to Keys Hotel and home) up at the crack of dawn to beat the queues at the gate. Tee shirt buying, speeches, songs and ceremonies; certificates and a last ten minutes walk accompanied by some of the locals trying to sell us ‘stuff’ as they buzzed around us like friendly flies displaying bracelets, carvings and even dinky toys.

Relaxed, happy and very dirty the team arrived back at the Keys Hotel at 11.30, giving plenty of time for showers and pampering before lunch and a long lazy afternoon chatting and soaking up the sunshine before the long journey home.

I think it’s true to say that Kilimanjaro did not disappoint. If anything she surpassed the expectations of all. The team came to Tanzania expecting to walk up a mountain and left having had a real challenge and a life changing experience in the company of some fine like-minded people.

Jane Horobin, Trek Leader« | »

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