Trip Reports

Everest Base Camp Trek - 3 to 23 Oct '10

Written by Leader Stuart McNeil, October 2010

After leaving our relaxed overnight stay in the Summit Hotel, Kathmandu, we headed for the domestic airport for our 45 minute flight to Lukla. We had no delays and we had a good laugh as some seats were taken off the aircraft and placed on the tarmac at the side of the aircraft, which gave us good photo opportunities of people sat in the seats going nowhere!

On landing in Lukla we were met by our smiling Sherpas, Siler, Jungbu and Rinchin and also the big cheese Nima, who was our Sirdar for the duration of our trek.

The team’s kit bags were loaded on to the 4 yaks and also a porter, Pemba was to carry 1 kit bag plus the kerosene stove for all our hot water needs. Once we had our refreshing lemon tea, we set off for our first overnight stay at a lodge in Monjo, firstly calling in for lunch at Phakding down by the Dudh Kosi River.

The next morning we gradually ascended the Khumbu Valley, which had not changed a great deal since my last visit, with the exception of a few new lodges and the upgrading of facilities in the existing ones. We caught out first glimpse of Everest and Lhotse at the bottom of the Namche hill, which gave us really clear views of Everest in the distance with no clouds in sight.

Namche Bazaar was our next village for 2 nights, with an acclimatisation walk up to the Everest View Hotel and a visit to Kunde Hospital where we left a few vital drugs.

Eventually we arrived at Lobuje where we had a walk to the glass pyramid research centre sponsored by the Italians and were shown round by a Nepalese scientist; this is a bizarre structure in the middle of a barren landscape.

Finally, we arrived at Gorak Shep, which was our springboard for both Everest base camp and Kala Pattar, our highest point at 5,550m. We had a short afternoon walk on to the first ridge line on Kala Pattar for fantastic views of Lhotse and the tip of Everest.

The next day we set off early for Everest Base Camp, with all 12 team members arriving to find a couple of expeditions there and a welcome flask of tea was provided by Erik Larsen’s cook team. Lots of pictures were taken of the Khumbu Icefall and surrounding peaks, such as Pumori and Everest West Peak, as well as lots of individual photos.

Our next objective was the highest elevation of the trek Kala Pattar. With an early start we ascended to its airy summit for a really clear vista of Everest and Nuptse and other surrounding peaks. We stayed for a good hour soaking up the views before descending to the lodge for lunch and to pack our kit bags for our return journey down to Lobuje and drinks at Doboche.

We were very fortunate in terms of the weather, as we had the views and the photo opportunities, all the way up on our trek. However, on our descent, we had two half days of rain with bad visibility and snow falling higher up the Khumbu. No doubt shortly after our descent, the Khumbu would reveal itself once more to the many trekkers making the effort to climb Kala Pattar and for those who go as far as Everest Base Camp.

I would like to thank the entire group for their excellent company and the many laughs we had along the way! And to the vital support of the local trek crew. And finally ‘’where’s the peg’’?

Stu McNeil « | »

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