Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro Western Breach - 31 Jan to 12 Feb '11

Written by Leader Mark Campbell, February 2011

A truly international team consisting of:
4 Americans; Rob, Bob, Jay and Dan,
2 South Africans; Greg and Lisa,
2 English; Paul and Chloe,
1 Canadian; Rob
And I from South Africa were all finally united in the Keys hotel with all baggage intact after various flying routes got us all to Kilimanjaro!

With some good skills and a dose of eagerness we departed the Keys hotel at 9.10 am just 10 minutes behind schedule which the ladies thought was exceedingly good for that time of the morning!

The bus trip to Arusha National Park and our first task –Mt Meru was made specially memorable when the cloud cleared and we had spectacular views of Kilimanjaro and a little later Meru.

On arrival at Meru the team settled down to packed lunches whilst the guides sorted out porter loads, registrations and the like. Lunches were soon guarded by means of walking sticks after a close call with an excited Blue Monkey nearly saw our lunch take a quick gap for the trees!

The walk up to Mirikamba Hut was hot, but all the more pleasant for the sighting of African Buffalo, Giraffe and a family of Warthog’s. About an hour before reaching camp threatening thunderstorms developed but apart from 37 drops or more we did not get the rain that was so ominously promised.

Day 3 was an early rise at 7 for breakfast, packing and departure through delightful rainforest by 8.50. Initial heat was soon replaced with a welcome cooling thanks to thicker cloud cover but as like yesterday no rain occurred. The cooler temperatures and beautiful scenery that we were walking through even managed to dampen the monotony of the endless steps we were climbing. Arrival at camp was soon turned into a frenetic debate over the planned itinerary, which had suggested a rest and acclimatisation day before attempting the summit and heading down to the park gate.

It was soon evident that the thought of a long walk out day was not high on everyone’s plan of action – so a compromise plan was discussed and put in place.

Day 4, up at 3.30am for a breakfast and departure under torchlight at 4.30am with everyone feeling good. We made Rhino point in 2 hours to watch a really amazing sunrise behind Kilimanjaro. Then under improving light we negotiated the tricky scrambling bits and headed for summit which was reached around 10.30am. Everyone was back down by 3.30pm and glad that we had decided to stop for a second night at the Saddle Hut.

Day 5 we rose at 6 and headed for the park gate with some legs stiffer and sorer than others, but we were all in happy spirits when we sat down for lunch at 12.30 before the bus ride back to the Keys, a shower and some celebratory cold beers!

Day 6 and some even more stiff legs! Breakfast at 7.30 and some delay while the expanded crew of 4 guides, 9 camp crew and 24 porters and provisions were gathered before we bussed off to the Umbwe gate. A pleasant but familiarly hot walk through beautiful forest saw us gain 1200m in height and reach a picturesque Forest Camp.

Day 7 provided what is definitely the most scenic day’s walk of the trip if not of anywhere in the world, through beautiful forest, spectacular canyons and amazing alpine vegetation landscapes brought us to the picturesque Barranco camp with the impressive Barranco wall imposing itself on the right hand side of camp.

Our conversation around afternoon tea revolved around tomorrow’s rest day! The guides proposed another idea as a few of the group were not convinced of the overall benefit of resting whilst there is so much more altitude to be climbed.

The proposal was for us to move up to Lava Towers camp tomorrow and then onward to Arrow camp the day after. After much discussion an agreement was reached that if everyone had a good night's sleep and felt no effects of altitude then we would move up as suggested.

Day 8 and all rose feeling well and having had a warm and good night's sleep. We headed off to for Lava Towers at 9 am. At 10.30 cloud and fog moved in and we finished our walk into camp in an eerie but cool lunchtime and a nice restful afternoon.

Day 9 we awoke around 8am somewhat colder than previous mornings but after a good breakfast we headed off for Arrow Glacier Camp at 10.15 which we reached after a brief but pleasant 1 hour 20 minute walk.

Day 10 We woke at 1.30am and after preparations and a nice breakfast we headed off slowly under torchlight alone up the path for the Western Breach. Slow steady walking got us to the crater rim around 8.30 and finally summit of Uhuru Peak at 10.15 which we had all to ourselves for the hour or so we spent up there recovering, making phone calls and eating our snacks. Our descent was made more interesting when we came across a fellow climber who was in considerable distress and required a carry out rescue involving brave porters from a number of teams.

Everyone was glad to make it safely to Millenium Camp by 5.30pm after a long but successful 15 and a half hours walking! A tremendous thunderstorm brought hail and rain to camp before a delicious supper and early retirement to bed.

Our last days walk to the gate was cooler and the welcoming taste of cold beers at the gate made it all the more enjoyable.

After thanking and tipping the crew we returned to the Keys hotel for more beers, lunch with our popular guides and a refreshing swim in the pool.

A thoroughly enjoyable trip with good bonds of friendship forged and all the more pleasing for the 100% successful summits made this a truly delightful expedition. The group slowly dispersed with 4 heading off on safari, three home on Fri and the last of the group on Sunday.

Mark Campbell, Trek Leader. « | »

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