Trip Reports

Ecuador Volcanoes - 16 Dec to 2 Jan '12

Written by Leader John Armstrong, January 2012

Christmas Snow and Rain on the Equator for Ecuador Volcanoes Dec 2011

The team drove through steady rain to the comfortable Hotel Reina Isabel in downtown Quito on the 16th December and that set the scene for the next few days whilst we acclimatised on Pasachoa 4200m, Rucu Pichincha 4787m and finally Corazon which gave an enjoyable scramble to its 4788m summit.

We enjoyed finally getting away from the city and into camp below Ilinizas in preparation for an ascent of its North summit, 5126m. After a 0600hrs start we made good progress reaching the refuge by 0900hrs and then onwards via the rocky ridge. As we progressed into the clouds it became clear just how much snow had been put down over the previous days and it was with some disappointment that we made the only sensible decision to descend from just over 5000m faced with climbing what could be best described as Scottish grade II to the summit.

The following morning, after a clear frosty night, we enjoyed stunning views of Cotopaxi and traced the route to the summit whilst still enjoying the prospect of a couple of days rest – hopefully the weather would continue to improve.

Christmas Eve saw us shopping in Otovalo market before making our way to the beautiful and serene Hacienda Guachalo where we dined that evening on traditional turkey.

The journey on Christmas day to the Cayambe Refuge saw us resting there just after lunch and benefiting from some axe and crampon skills training on the glacier on Boxing day. The weather was still a little unsettled and very windy. That night we set off at 0015hrs for the 5790m summit of Cayambe. It was cold and windy as we put on our crampons at the edge of the glacier, after about an hour of post holing through the fresh snow we were faced with a rising traverse across a long steep slope. There was a real concern about the stability of the snow and what was still to come. The guides carried out several rutschblock snow stability tests and were quite alarmed at how easily the 50cm deep windslab test blocks released. There was a unanimous decision that it was out of the question to continue, so it was back to the hut and into bed again by 0430hrs. Despite our disappointment we all knew there was no alternative.

Later that day we made our way towards Cotopaxi and stayed in the delightful Tambopaxi Lodge where we enjoyed perfect clear blue sky views of the summit. Thursday 29th Dec saw the group make their way to the Refuge at 4800m in high spirits with the prospect of summiting early the next morning. Rising at 2300hrs we were disappointed to be greeted with steady rain outside but set off regardless at 0015hrs. Fortunately the rain soon stopped and the skies cleared as we made our way through an exciting maze of crevasses and icefalls. There was a steady wind making it bitterly cold which encouraged several to don their down jackets. We had been first away from the refuge and our first rope with Nico leading Casper, Marie and Nick reached the 5989m summit in an impressive five and a half hours, the remaining three ropes had all summited by 0700hrs and were greeted by excellent views into the crater and beyond – it was too cold to linger long. 1030hrs saw everyone back at the refuge and hence down to Tambopaxi Lodge for another enjoyable evening. Casper and Marie departed next day, 31st Dec whilst the remainder let their hair down in good fashion on New Year’s Eve in Quito.

Sean, John and David climbed aboard the jeep for Antisana whilst we made our way to the airport on 1st Jan 2012. As we arrived in Edinburgh the storm from hell was forecast in Scotland for Weds 3rd Jan and indeed we did have an adventure returning up the A9 to Carrbridge. However it delighted me to have a text later that afternoon from Sean announcing that all three of them had summited Antisana.

Despite a rather wet and frustrating start to the trip we had a great end to a very enjoyable adventure with twelve great people. Thank you all.

John Armstrong
3rd Jan 2012 « Previous report | Next report »

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