Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Lemosho Glades 7th - 16th July '12

Written by Leader Neal Short, July 2012

The expedition began with an exciting 4x4 jeep ride across the cultivated plains with Kilimanjaro in the background and up through the forest on, at times, deeply rutted red-earth tracks. The team was quite tired on the walk up to Mti Mkubwa Camp (2800m) due to the culmination of the early flights out of the UK and rising early in the Keys Hotel so to be organised for the departure. In the forest, we saw Colobus monkeys in the canopy of trees which had grey-green streamers of bearded lichen hanging from the branches.

Day 3 started with a wonderfully cool morning and a brisk paced wander through the forest. We gained some time knowing that the pace would need to slow later due to being careful with the increasing altitude and the heat. We re-filled the water bottles in a fast flowing stream that we crossed so that everyone could hydrate well on what was looking to become a hot day. I think everyone at this point started to realise why it’s important on Kilimanjaro to have a wide brimmed hat, a long sleeve trekking shirt and also good sun-glasses and high factor sun cream/ lip balm. We were now walking in the heath and moorland vegetation zone and the first glimpse of Kibo came an hour or so out of Shira One Camp (3500m). The broad bulk of the dormant volcano impressively gleamed and dominated the skyline even though the summit was still over 15km away.

Our day up to Shira Two Camp (3800m) was to be an interesting one because of a planned detour to the craggy and precipitous summit of Shira Cathedral Peak (3800m). We got packed off from camp with a good lunch and made sure we had plenty of water. The summit is on the southern rim of the Shira caldera and it provided a super scenic easy scramble. Everyone enjoyed this little extra and from the summit we got great views across the mid-day haze to Mt Meru and back out across to the Shira plateau.

Day 5 was as mentioned in the itinerary being both ‘superb and spectacular’. It was quite hard going pushing up and going around the Lava Tower (4600m) as the team were still acclimatising. The route down to Barranco Camp (3900m) initially provided fantastic views of the mighty Breach Wall and then took us through into broad gullies lined with giant senecios. For those members already thinking of the following day, the tremendous Barranco Wall came into view. The wall became more imposing and ‘exciting’ the closer we got to camp and ultimately, to our immediate daily end of trek get together in the mess tent for hydration and snacks.

Many things make the Lemosho expedition terrific and the ascent of the Barranco Wall on Day 6 is certainly right up there. Its imposing dominance from camp can certainly raise the pulse but the whole team took it all in their stride. We initially got stuck in some of the porter traffic but then wound our way up taking off a few layers and donning shades as rays of warm sunshine struck the wall, all the while marvelling and thankful for the strength shown by the porters. Over the last few days, we had been way above a sea of cloud with only Mt Meru poking up through and it was no different today. Getting into Karanga Camp (4050m) by 2pm allowed for a restful afternoon and everyone was now starting to feel stronger and more confident at altitude. Once again that evening, upon leaving the mess tent, we were treated to staggering star gazing and the Milky Way clearly arcing across the sky.

The penultimate walk before the summit to Barafu Camp (4650m) took 3hrs 30minutes. It provided another opportunity for the team to be in camp early to rest up and get organised prior to the night-time ascent of Kibo and Uhuru Peak. It was also the first time the views properly opened up to the east and across to the impressive crown like summit of Mawenzi (5149m).

We left for our summit bid at 12.10am and the team climbed well all through the night. I felt it was overall a little colder than my previous ascents and the wind chill in particular caused it to be a challenging night. The team used the large shelter a couple of times to warm up and be able to more comfortably take on food and drink. Relatively close to Stella Point, the team split with six members carrying on to summit in around 10hrs. This group, who's ages stretched from 16yrs to 59yrs, was a father & son team of James & Chris respectively; sisters, Beth & Felicity; Anthony and Ib. It was a well-deserved success and I’m very pleased for them. The others in the group, with myself, descended to Barafu Camp. One member went straight down to Moshi aided by the terrific in-country team.

We made our descent of Kilimanjaro firstly to overnight at Millenium Camp (3800m) and then out to Moshi, via the Mweka Gate. Beth, Jonathan and Anthony gave out tips to the very worthy porters and camp staff at the park gate. The team was all together at the Keys Hotel for just a very short while, as two members dashed off almost immediately to fly out to enjoy the delights of Zanzibar. The majority of the team had to be fairly prompt in getting showered and changed because of our evening flight back to the UK via Amsterdam. Only Jenny, Felicity, Jonathan and Beth could reasonably relax in the hotel as they were heading for the thrills of a safari the following day. We gave out tips to the deserving local guides and had cold beer before heading off to the airport just as the sun was starting to set on Kilimanjaro.

Lemosho Glades is a quick trip in comparison to many mountain ventures but nevertheless a tremendous journey and I’m sure, a rewarding one for the whole team. Much obliged and well done to the team members. Neal Short, Leader. « Previous report | Next report »

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