Zermatt 4000ers

Overview

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Introduction

Monte Rosa has a number of summits over 4,000m, with the Dufourspitze being the highest. It is easily accessed via snow, with the last 200m being a fine rock scramble, in a memorable position. This is our main objective for the week, with the final three days geared towards climbing this, Switzerland's highest mountain.

During the course, we also climb the Breithorn (4,164m), Castor (4,223m) and Pollux (4,092m), which serve as excellent preparation and acclimatisation. When in the valley, we stay at the newly-refurbished Hotel Aristella, which serves excellent food to our course participants, as well as providng welcome rest in a comfy bed for the night.

The Zermatt 4,000ers course is guided at a ratio of 1:2 throughout, as both Pollux and the Dufourspitze are guided at this ratio. It is suitable for Alpinists with previous alpine climbing experience, for example, those who have completed the Saas 4000ers course. Monte Rosa is a physically tough outing, compared to any of the climbs on the Saas 4,000ers, though overall this week is not as demanding as the Oberland 4000ers.

• What next? On completion of this course, you might consider the Oberland 4,000ers or Alpine Improvers courses.

Course base: Zermatt, Switzerland

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Possible Mountain Routes

Breithorn (4,164m) - the easiest 4,000m peak in the Alps
The Breithorn offers some excellent climbing at a reasonable standard; ease of access via the Klein Matterhorn lift and a straightforward descent ensures its popularity. The South-South-West Flank is the ordinary route (F), which can be easily climbed as part of a satisfying traverse of the mountain. The route is on snow, with a stunning summit ridge.

Castor (4,223m) and Pollux (4,092m) - by the WNW Flank and SW Ridge
We climb Castor via its West-North-West-Flank (PD+), up a long, snowy slope to the summit ridge, or via the NW Ridge (PD+) if there has been recent snow fall. After the climb of Castor, a very fit team could climb Pollox by SW Ridge (PD+).

Castor is best climbed from the Val d'Ayas Hut (3,394m), as the Zwillings Glacier is now badly crevassed, so the approach from the Monte Rosa Hut is rated AD. The start of the West Flank of the mountain is reached from the hut in 1 to 1/12 hours, where a series of zig zags at around 35° arrive at the summit ridge via a small bergshrund. A delightful snow crest then leads to the summit. Descent is normally by the same route. If time and fitness allow, an ascent of Pollux can also be made. The SW Ridge is mostly a rock scramble, which has some fixed rope in place on the steeper section. Beyond the rock a short snow arête leads to the summit. In accordance with the regional law of the Aosta Valley, Pollux is guided at a 1:2 ratio.

Riffelhorn (2,927m) - Rock Climbing training on the East Ridge
The Riffelhorn has traditionally been a training peak for the Matterhorn. Not only is the rock excellent, but the overall situation is simply outstanding. The peak is positioned high above the Gorner Glacier, with awesome views of the north faces of the Breithorn, Castor and Pollux, Liskamm, as well as the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. We climb the East Ridge, which is a series of steps and flat sections, leading to the summit. There are plenty of opportunities to practice ropework in preparation for our Monte Rosa ascent.

Alphubel (4,206m) - by the SE Ridge (PD)
The most southerly peak of the Mischabel chain is one of the most popular summits that we climb regularly on both the Saas 4,000ers and Zermatt 4,000ers courses. The South-East Ridge (PD) can be climbed from Zermatt from the Tasch Hut (2,701m). This is a snow climb, with a delicate summit ridge, which can be tricky if icy. Alternatively, we may climb the East Flank (PD-).

It takes between 2 3/4 and 3 1/4 hours to reach the Alphubeljoch (3,773m) from the Tasch Hut. From the pass the route climbs up onto the SE ridge and follows a narrow crest, before the ridge broadens and we reach the Eisnase (ice-nose). Normally, with good snow cover, the route zig zags up a 40 degree slope on this crux section at 4,100m. It's another 100m to the summit from here, which provides glorious views across the Zermatt skyline.

Dufourspitze on Monte Rosa (4,634m) - The highest peak in Switzerland by the W Ridge (PD+)
The Dufourspitze is the pinnacle of the Monte Rosa group, the highest massif in Europe. It is a long route, following a long glacier and snow slopes to the crest of the West Ridge (PD+), which leads, in a fantastic position, to the second highest point in the Alps and the highest peak in Switzerland.

This 3-day tour begins with a train ride on the Gornergrat Railway to the Rotenboden Station at 2,815m, followed by a 2 1/2 hour walk to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,795m). The summit is a big day, which normally takes between 10 to 12 hours hut-to-hut. We need to make an early start, and hope for good snow conditions on the glacier. The glacier terminates in a short steep snow face that leads to the superb summit rock ridge of solid gneiss. Although not technically difficult, there are enough crevasses to concentrate the mind on the ascent. We descend back to the hut, before returning to Zermatt the following day.

The Dom (4,545m) - the highest peak entirely in Switzerland by the N Flank (PD-)
A mountain for determined alpinists and a fine alternative to the Dufourspitze, which can also be climbed in a 3-day tour from Zermatt. There is no mechanical uplift available on this peak and this is why the Dom tops the list of effort required of all the alpine 4,000er's. The hut walk is normally 5 to 6 hours and summit day involves 1,600m of ascent. Although this is not a technically demanding route, it is remote and arguably has unsurpassed summit views. A superb outing.

Typical Programme

Day 1:	Saturday. Course participants meet at the course base at 7pm. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening.
Day 2:	Sunday. We use the Gornergrat Railway to access the Riffelhorn. Rope skills practice and ascent of the East Ridge, which is good training for the final 200m of the Dufourspitze. Return to the valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 3:	Monday. Télépherique to the Klein Matterhorn Station. Climb the Breithorn (4,164m) en route to the Ayas Hut (3,400m). Afternoon skills training. Overnight hut.
Day 4:	Tuesday. From the Val d'Ayas Hut, climb Castor (4,228m) via the WNW flank and, for the very fit, the SW Ridge of Pollux (4,092m), before returning to the valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 5:	Wednesday. Take the Gornergrat mountain railway, then a 4-hour walk to the Monte Rosa hut (2,795m).
Day 6:	Thursday. Ascent of the Dufourspitze (4,634m), the highest mountain in Switzerland. Descend and overnight at the Monte Rosa hut.
Day 7:	Friday. Descend back down to the valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 8:	Saturday. Dispersal. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before students leave the course.

Further Information

Find out more about our Guides and Ratios, Alpine Grading and Equipment... read more

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the course or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Dates & Prices

Date	Meeting in		Availability
Sat 28 Jun – Sat 5 Jul 2025	Zermatt		full Enquire »
Head of Course Catalin Fratila Course Guide/Instructor Tom Seccombe Course Guide/Instructor Jim Kerr	£2,595
Sat 12 Jul – Sat 19 Jul 2025	Zermatt		full Enquire »
Head of Course Richard Dupont Course Guide/Instructor Graham McGrath Course Guide/Instructor Caroline Ogden	£2,595
Sat 2 Aug – Sat 9 Aug 2025	Zermatt		Available Book now »
2 places left with £75 early booking offer	£2,595 £2,520
Sat 16 Aug – Sat 23 Aug 2025	Zermatt		Available Book now »
2 places left with £75 early booking offer Head of Course Catalin Fratila	£2,595 £2,520
Sat 23 Aug – Sat 30 Aug 2025	Zermatt		full Enquire »
Head of Course Caroline Ogden Course Guide/Instructor Graham McMahon	£2,595
Sat 27 Jun – Sat 4 Jul 2026	Zermatt		Available Book now »
	£2,595
Sat 4 Jul – Sat 11 Jul 2026	Zermatt		Available Book now »
	£2,595
Sat 18 Jul – Sat 25 Jul 2026	Zermatt		Available Book now »
	£2,595
Sat 15 Aug – Sat 22 Aug 2026	Zermatt		Available Book now »
	£2,595
Sat 22 Aug – Sat 29 Aug 2026	Zermatt		Available Book now »
	£2,595

This course is available to book in GBP, USD and EUR.
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Group size: 2 – 6 people.

Single room supplement: £200

For comparison, this course starts from £371 (GBP) per day (price Without Flights).

What the price includes

• 4 nights hotel accommodation in Zermatt on a twin-sharing, half-board basis
• 3 nights mountain hut accommodation in a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
• 6 days guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. Ratio 1:2 maximum
• Transport (by public means, private hire vehicle, minibus or guides' cars) to fulfil the course programme
• Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment
• Ice axes, crampons, harnesses & helmets, when booked in advance

What the price does not include

• Travel to/from Zermatt
• Lunch
• Cable cars, mountain railways and mechanical uplift (estimated cost £40 - £50 with Swiss Card)
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing (including boots, which can be hired locally)
• Mountaineering and travel Insurance

Please note that the costs for mechanical up-lift are not included in the overall course cost because these can vary, depending on the weather and routes selected. This means that we are not restricted by a budget. Also, if we spend less on up-lift than expected, you make the saving rather than us.

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Reviews

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• ‘The highlight of the course was probably the climb of the Riffelhorn, this was an a great climb, and a really good way to hone some rock skills prior to the climb of Monta Rosa.’ DS, Zermatt 4,000ers 2013

Travel & Venue

Fly to Geneva or Zurich. For Zermatt, you can travel from the airport using the efficient Swiss Rail network (travel time from Zurich is 3.5 hours, Geneva is 4 hours). Plan you journey at www.sbb.ch.

Valley accommodation is in the superb Hotel Aristella. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share, half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself.