Matterhorn Summit

Overview

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Introduction

The Matterhorn is one of the world's most iconic mountains. From the mountain village of Zermatt, its profile is unmistakable as your gaze is drawn towards the foreboding north face and striking north east ridge of the Hörnligrat. On the tick list of every aspiring Alpinist, the mountain is also famous for its difficulty in less than perfect conditions. Thesedays the loose north face is rarely climbed outside of the autumn and winter months when it is frozen and there is less risk from stonefall, and the two easiest routes; the Hörnli ridge and Lion ridge need to be clear of snow to be attempted at anything like the guidebook grade. Even when the east face is visibly free of snow and the Hörnligrat is dry, climbers need to be competent at rock and mixed climbing in crampons, as crampons are typically required above the 'Shoulder'.

The aim of the week is to attempt the Hörnli ridge from Zermatt (though there may be circumstances where the Guides' prefer to climb the Lion ridge from Cervinia, on the Italian side). Both are a similar grade, though the Lion ridge has more fixed ropes on it. You will start in Chamonix, where the focus will be on preparing for the Matterhorn, with ascents on rock and mixed terrain. You will also need to get acclimatised by spending at least one night in a mountain hut. On Wednesday morning you'll transfer to Zermatt and have three days set aside to attempt the mountain.

Experience Required

The Matterhorn Summit week is suitable for Alpinists with previous experience climbing Alpine routes of AD and above. The ascent from the Hörnli hut typically takes 4 - 5 hours, with a similar time required to descend. Please contact us with your Alpine climbing CV and a reference from a Mountain Guide if you have not climbed with Jagged Globe previously, before booking this course.

Please note that any progress onto the Matterhorn is dependent on the weather forecast, the route being in condition (free of snow) and on the Guides' approval of your climbing ability. In short, if the mountain is out of condition, you will climb something else and if the Guide or Course Director doesn't think you are ready of the Matterhorn, you will have the option of climbing something else in the Zermatt valley. A flexible approach is also necessary to make the best use of the weather during the week.

Start point: Chamonix, France

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Possible Mountain Routes

Hörnligrat on the Matterhorn (4,478m)
The climb is a long rock scramble, which is exposed and graded AD with rock sections of UIAA III. You need to be fit and be able to move quickly and securely over rock and mixed terrain.

Aiguille du Peigne (3,192m)
The Papillons Arete is a short but superb rock climb on a fine arête overlooking Chamonix. The climbing can be quite hard (Grade V) but it's low altitude means it can be climbed in a day from Chamonix, and when the weather is poor in the higher mountains.

Dent du Geant (4,013m)
This is a fine rock spire on the frontier ridge between France and Italy, close to the Grandes Jorasses. The normal route is on rock (AD) and is in a tremendous situation overlooking the Mer de Glace and the Val d'Aosta. The approach is on snow, and can be extended to include the superb Rochefort Arete, thus taking in another 4,000m peak.

Aiguille du Grepon (3,482m)
The Mer de Glace Face of the Grepon is a classic Chamonix mountain rock climb, steeped in history. Equally good, but longer, is the traverse of the Grepon and the neighbouring Grands Charmoz. Both offer excellent outings giving good practise in swift and efficient rock climbing techniques.

Petit Dru (3,733m)
This is perhaps the most famous rock spire in the Alps, and looks spectacular from Chamonix. The Normal Route is a Difficile rock climb which will give a fit team a tremendous challenge in an amazing location, overlooking the Bonatti Pillar. There is also a possibility of extending the climb over the Grand Dru (3,754m) to complete a traverse of both peaks.

Riffelhorn - Rock Climbing on the South Face
The Riffelhorn has traditionally been a training peak for the Matterhorn. The West Ridge is a popular climb with Zermatt Guides, but arguably the best routes are on the South Face. Egg is a 6 pitch route that can be climbed in big boots at grade AD - (UK equivalent to VS). Not only is the rock excellent, but the overall situation is simply outstanding. The Riffelhorn is positioned high above the Gorner Glacier, with awesome views of the north faces of the Breithorn, Castor and Pollux, Liskamm, as well as the Matterhorn and Monta Rosa.

Typical Programme

Please note this programme is flexible, depending on the conditions in the mountains, weather forecast and the performance of the course participants.

Day 1:	Saturday. Course participants meet in Chamonix at 7pm. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening. Overnight hotel.
Day 2:	Sunday. Climbing in the Chamonix Valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 3:	Monday. Climbing in the Chamonix Valley. Overnight mountain hut.
Day 4:	Tuesday. Climbing in the Chamonix Valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 5:	Wednesday. Drive to Zermatt in Guide's car. In the afternoon you will ascend to Hörnli Hut (3,260m). Overnight hut.
Day 6:	Thursday. Ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hörnli Ridge. Overnight either Hörnli Hut/Schwarzsee hotel/valley hotel, depending on what time you descend. If you descend to the valley after the climb, you may choose to travel home that evening.
Day 7:	Friday. Descend to the valley (or attempt Matterhorn if not climbed on Thursday). Overnight hotel.
Day 8:	Saturday. Depart Zermatt. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before you leave the course.

Further Information

Find out more about our Guides and Ratios, Alpine Grading and Equipment... read more

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the course or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Dates & Prices

Date	Meeting in		Availability
Sat 18 Jul – Sat 25 Jul 2026	Chamonix		Trip Guaranteed Book now »
Head of Course Catalin Dobre Course Guide/Instructor Catalin Fratila Course Guide/Instructor Fernando Arnaudi 1 place left	£3,895
Sat 25 Jul – Sat 1 Aug 2026	Chamonix		Trip Guaranteed Book now »
Head of Course Tina Di Batista Course Guide/Instructor Dave Thexton Last 2 places	£3,895
Sat 1 Aug – Sat 8 Aug 2026	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895
Sat 8 Aug – Sat 15 Aug 2026	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895
Sat 17 Jul – Sat 24 Jul 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895
Sat 24 Jul – Sat 31 Jul 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895
Sat 31 Jul – Sat 7 Aug 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895
Sat 7 Aug – Sat 14 Aug 2027	Chamonix		Available Book now »
	£3,895

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Group size: 2 – 4 people.

For comparison, this course starts from £556 (GBP) per day (price Without Flights).

What the price includes

• 3 nights hotel accommodation in Chamonix on a twin-sharing, half-board basis
• 1 nights mountain hut accommodation in Chamonix on a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
• 2 nights mountain hotel or mountain hut accommodation in Zermatt in a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
• 1 nights hotel accommodation in Zermatt on a twin-sharing, half-board basis
• 6 days guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. Ratio 3 days at 1:2, 3 days at 1:1 maximum
• Transport (by public means, private hire vehicle, minibus or guides' cars) to fulfil the course programme
• Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment
• Ice axes, crampons, harnesses & helmets, when booked in advance

What the price does not include

• Travel to Chamonix and return from Zermatt
• Lunch
• Cable cars, mountain railways and mechanical uplift (estimated cost £100 - £140)*
• Any additional accommodation costs if the programme is changed and hotels in Zermatt are not used**
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing (including boots, which can be hired locally)
• Mountaineering and travel Insurance

*Please note that the costs for mechanical up-lift are not included in the overall course cost because these can vary, depending on the weather and routes selected. This means that we are not restricted by a budget. Also, if we spend less on up-lift than expected, you make the saving rather than us.

**Hotels in Zermatt are booked and paid for in advance. In the event that bad weather means you do not use the hotel, you will need to meet the cost of any additional nights spent elsewhere. For example, if you decide to remain in Chamonix for Wednesday - Friday night, as the Matterhorn is not in condition, you will need to pay for Friday night there at the time.

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Reviews

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• ‘Tomaz is without a doubt the best guide/instructor I have had to date. Extremely knowledgeable, friendly and motivating and I felt very safe under his guidance all week. DM’ Matterhorn Summit - August, '16
• ‘Great experience, excellent guides. LS.’ Matterhorn Summit, August '15

Leader Reports

• Matterhorn Summit - 10 Aug to 17 Aug '19
  “More Matterhorn Magic Thanks to Mountain Guide Tomaz, Colin and Magda completed their Matterhorn week with a successful summit climb. The week began with a technical rock climb in the Aiguilles Rouge above Chamonix, to start...”
  report added 20/Aug/19
• Matterhorn Summit - 3 Aug to 10 Aug '19
  “Yesterday we finished a very successful Matterhorn week. I did first 3 days with Rob and Bruce around Chamonix and Torino hut. Tina joined us for the Matterhorn climb. Approach to Hornli hut on Wednesday was in bad weather and...”
  report added 19/Aug/19

Travel & Venue

Fly to Geneva. A 50 minute airport transfer to Chamonix can be booked through Jagged Globe via your on-line account. Travelling home from Zermatt: You can travel to Geneva Airport from Zermatt at the end of the course using the efficient Swiss Rail network (travel time to Geneva is 4 hours). Plan you journey at www.sbb.ch.

Valley accommodation in Chamonix is in La Chaumière Mountain Lodge. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share (or occasionally, triple/quad), half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself. Valley accommodation in Zermatt is in the superb Hotel Aristella. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share, half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself.