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Summits on Denali

Congratulations to the 15 May team, all of whom summited Denali on Sunday evening under the light of the full moon. The team had some excellent conditions overall on their ascent, but some bad weather once they descended off the mountain, which delayed their return to Talkeetna.

Denali is notorious for its extreme weather, with few teams able to make a smooth ascent of the mountain without at least some weather-forced delay. Teams use the strategy of placing caches at various points on the route, in case they are unable to move due to storms, which can last up to a week. High Camp is particularly vulnerable, being exposed to high winds. Walls cut from snow blocks are built around the tents to provide protection. As it never goes dark so far north, it's possible to set off the summit at any time during the day when the weather is most settled. A curiosity of the Denali equipment list is that there is no head torch on it! Essential items of equipment include a face mask, glacier glasses with nose protection, and, perhaps, an eye mask for sleeping.

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