News

Peak Lenin despatch 19 July

Ladders
Update

From Chris Groves at Camp 1 (ABC) 4400m

All team safely back in camp & down in time for lunch! Now airing kit and waiting in line for a shower.

Since moving to C1 a week ago we have climbed Pik Kholm 4700m, done some skills training, climbed Pik Yukina 5130m and spent the night just below the summit. Then after a rest day our attention turned to Pik Lenin.

Setting off at 3am it took 90mins over moraine ridges and dry glacier to reach the crampon point. Unfortunately, Ron decided to turn back having not properly recovered from a dodgy stomach. 2 hours later we were at the top of the fixed ropes, nothing too taxing but a bit of waiting in queues. Although there were 2 short ladders to negotiate.

At about 5000m the wind picked up, seemingly pushing us back down. It’s a huge face and progress felt slow. Eventually the climbing was pretty much done and we traversed to C2 with a final short climb. Just over 7 hours to climb 1160m and cover 8.75km. Who said this was easy?

Yesterday, after a slow start not helped by cold winds we climbed steeply up out of C2 for c.200m to a col then began a long rising traverse. As with the day before there was a constant strong wind. The final climb to C3 was tough. At 6000m Richard said he’d had enough, Vijay agreed. They stayed put while I pushed on to catch Jimmy and guide Julia. Catching them about 30mins later, we entered C3, 6100m. Jimmy & Julia stopped for a hot drink before making a slight detour to summit  Pik Rasdelnaya 6150m

Thankfully, the team was all backdown in C2 by 1600.

After a very windy night we left just after 0800 for the long trek back to the relative comforts of C1.

The plan now is to rest up, try and recover ahead our summit attempt.

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