Trip Reports

Cholatse 2017

Dawn breaks as climbers make their way up the south west ridge of Cholatse
Trip Report

Written by Leader Matt Parkes, December 2017

Before I go into detail on this year’s Jagged Globe expedition to Cholatse, I feel that this mountain deserves perhaps a little more introduction than usual.  Cholatse is located just North of Taboche and next to the popular Cho La Pass, crossed by many trekkers each year to travel in-between the Gokyo and Khumbu Valleys.  From either valley Cholatse stands proud and strong, and you find yourself looking up at the steep towering faces wondering how they could possibly be climbed?  It is easy to see that this mountain offers no easy way of ascent, or descent, on any of its flanks - a serious undertaking!

During the 1950s to 70s many of the surrounding peaks in the area were seeing their first ascents, but Cholatse remained unclimbed.  This is due to the fact that the Nepalese government did not grant any climbing permits during this time.  Cholatse remained untouched until 1982. It was the last named but unclimbed peak in the Khumbu at that period.  The first ascent of Cholatse was finally attempted in April of that year by John Roskelley, Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell and Bill O’Connor.  Their route of choice was to be the South West Ridge and although successful its fair to say they had a tough time!  The SW Ridge did not see another repeat until 1993 and again in 2005.

With this history in mind and the fact that Cholatse has still seen few ascents, I felt it was a great privilege to have the opportunity to attempt the South West Ridge with a Jagged Globe team.  On the 21st October a strong but small team of climbers gathered at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu - Hanna originally from the UK who currently resides in Norway, Mike from Scotland, Alain from Canada and Arie from the Netherlands.  Between them a wealth of climbing experience amongst other achievements such as Ironman races.. a good start!

As usual a good acclimatisation trek had been planned by Jagged Globe.  We endured the  Lukla flight excitement, and set off up the trail.  After a few days we turned off the main Everest BC route and headed up towards a less busy Gokyo.  Here you cross a high pass called the Mong La and just beyond this point you are granted first sight of Cholatse towering in the distance.  Eager to set eyes on the route the team studied the mountain carefully.  Due to the profile of the mountain it is hard to see the South West Ridge at first but after a few days walking slowly alongside, the route suddenly comes into view.  You realise that it has been there all of the time but due to the steep angle of the mountainside it had not fully come into perspective.

Time passed in a relaxed manor in between the acclimatisation walks but soon we reached base camp.  Its fair to say everyone was relieved to be there.  Base camp is a nice grassy spot to relax in, if you can take your mind off the huge face and summit of Cholatse that looks down on you.  Suddenly you feel very small stood in this position.  Our motivated and fit team wasted no time in occupying time with walks up and down the valley sides whilst myself and our Sherpa team readied for days ahead.

Its at this point I should introduce our partners on this mountain - Pem Chirri (Climbing Sirdar), Ang Rinji (Climbing Sherpa and brother) and Oungdi Bhote (Climbing Sherpa).  For an ascent such as this you need not just a good, but a talented team of Sherpa climbers - we had just that.  We were also in the unique position that no one, team members, leader or Sherpa climbers had climbed this peak before.  We all wanted to enjoy our first opportunity to climb on this great route, this gave a true expedition feeling!

In the days to come we established high camp and spent a night acclimatising on the glacial moraine at 5130m.  Following this our first challenge was to load carry to Camp 1 situated in a spectacular position on a small col 5550m.  Setting off early morning we crossed the moraine and hit the steep icy glacier that leads eventually to a 200m headwall climb.  Last year the route followed the sugary snow ribs that lead up the face to camp but this year we opted for a route on the right, taking in steeper more difficult mixed climbing.  Anchors were better and the route a little safer but more demanding at a cost.  This day set the tone of things to come, we all reached camp 1 and retreated back to base camp pleased with our efforts and optimistic about what lay ahead.

By now the route was pretty much fixed and a few days rest gave us the chance to review the weather.  It was the 1st November and the forecast predicted high winds from 5th / 6th November for at least a week ahead.  With winter creeping in and temperatures getting lower by the day we did not relish the idea of a high wind to contend with.  It was time for me to discuss options with the team and make a clear decision.  Its now or we may not get another chance.  I opted for a summit day of Saturday 4th, forecast was clear weather with no wind... perfect!

On the 3rd November the team established camp 1 climbing with the rest of our loads required for a summit attempt. After an afternoon relaxing in Camp 1 everything was set for a push the following morning, summit excitement was running high.  We all tried to get some sleep.  Our planned start was 2am due to an increase in wind for the following afternoon, I wanted to give good time for everyone to descend in comfortable weather.  We awoke at 12:30 to the light of a fantastic full moon in cold clear skies.  Stoves fired up and the frantic preparations for departure came to life.  Just before 2am everyone stood outside the tents at camp 1 and looked at the dark route ahead.  Alain and Rinji set off first, followed by me, Hanna, Oungdi, Arie, Mike and Pem Chhiri.  We walked 50m across the col to the steepening snow slope and fixed line.  I must say that this 50m was the only rest that we pretty much got on the whole route.  What followed was a combination of steep rock, mixed, snow and ice climbing sustained to the summit!  I will try to give a brief description of each part of the climb.

Out of camp you reach steep rock slabs about 60 degree lightly dusted in snow.  difficult to climb with crampons on, foot placement is key but hard to find.  A rude awakening at such a time in the morning!  From here you gain the rock section, steep and very exposed.  As you negotiate this section care must be taken not to disturb loose rock.  Climbing higher sees you finally gain the thin icy ridge.  Here you follow the spine of the mountain, exposure increases.  In the night the surrounding peaks close in around you looking almost like two dimensional cardboard cut outs, its a stunning position to be in.  Always steep and short sections of up to 80 degrees ice.  I remember front pointing for several parts of the climb throughout the ascent.  You eventually reach the ‘mushroom’ and as in the previous year the route climbs in front and traverses the face.  Powdery snow covers the ice beneath, although the route lets up a bit, this keeps you focused not wanting to misplace a crampon.  To here it was a cold night and I was having to work hard to keep the blood flowing in my fingers and toes.  Traverse complete its back to steep snow and ice face climbing to eventually gain the final summit ridge.  At this point you may think you the mountain cannot throw anything else at you, this is where you are wrong!  To gain the summit you must traverse a knife edge ridge, balancing on top with up to 2000m drops on either side.  Another 200m of ascent sees you reach the top of a stunning route!

This year's team climbed in fine style Alain and Rinji raced to the top reaching the summit at 7am.  Myself and Hanna reached the top at 8am followed by Arie and Oungdi.  Mike and Pem reached a high point of 6270m on the summit ridge, a great effort by all!

A big thanks to the Sherpa team and in particular Pem Chhirri for fixing summit rope ahead of the attempt.

The descent is obviously the same as the route up, however you get to do it in daylight so if you missed any exposure on the way up you can enjoy it in full colour on the way down, be prepared!

If you hope to climb Cholatse one day my strong advice is: arrive very fit, make sure your rope-work is spot on and your climbing skills current and up to the job!  You will get more than you bargained for...

I hope to see more trips like this on the website. For me, its what climbing is all about.

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